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6-day ascent to Mount Tutoko in the Darran Mountains, NZ

Join one of our IFMGA certified mountain guides in this wonderful 6-day ascent to Mount Tutoko (2723 m), the highest peak of the Darran Mountains range.

Mountain RangeDarran Mountains
Duration6 days
Offer periodJan, Feb, Mar, Apr
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelExtremely Fit
Type of tripNot specified


Dominating the Darran Mountains, in New Zealand, there is an incredibly charming peak called Mount Tutoko. Located in Fiorland National Park, rises to a height of 2,723 m to embellish the view of the range.

To take a closer look at it, I created a great 6-day program that starts with a flight to Ngapunatoru Plateau, where we will spend the night camping. On the following day, we will traverse through sharp and snowy slopes for several hours, to reach the Northwestern Ridge of Mount Tutoko.

The summit day will include a lot of scrambling and taking rock steps, all leading to a final summit headwall with a crux of approximately AUS Grade 14/US 5.6. There, you will be able to admire the picture-perfect Tasman Sea and other fascinating peaks all across the Southern Alps.

There is another plan, if conditions allow it. We can take the Southeast Ridge route instead, which takes two days of climbing. The most amazing part of this alternative: we could camp under a massive overhanging rock! This has a similar headwall with a crux of about AUS Grade 14/US 5.6.

Whichever routes we decide to take, remember that they are technical. This trip is designed for those who have a strong climbing background and are physically prepared for the challenge.

Don’t wait too long to book this unique 6-day ascent to this wonderful mountain in New Zealand.

If you want another New Zealander challenge, don’t miss this 6-day ascent to Mount Tasman.


At Homer Hut and at a camping site.

More info

We guide Mt Tutoko on a 1:1 client: guide ratio due to its technical nature. <br> The nature of the New Zealand mountains dictates that we utilize helicopters or ski-planes when accessing the backcountry. This saves days of heavy load-carrying and allows us to concentrate on the climbing objective whilst making the best use of fine weather days.

Meeting point

Wanaka or Queenstown, New Zealand.




Day 1: Meeting and climbing

We will meet in Wanaka or Queenstown and check our gear. Then, we will drive to Milford Sound (4-5 hours) and will enjoy an afternoon walk or climb. We will overnight at Homer Hut.

Day 2: Flight and acclimatization

In the morning, we will fly into Ngapunatoru Plateau. We will acclimatize, consolidate skills or ascend a practice peak. We could alternatively move camp closer to the NW Ridge.

Day 3: Traverse and camping

We will traverse off the plateau and around to the base of the NW ridge. We will set camp and spend the night in tents.

Day 4: Summit day of Mt Tutoko (2723 m)

We will start early (3-4am) and climb up the ridge to the summit. At the end of the day, we will descend back to the tent camp.

Day 5: Contingency day or alternative activity

If we had bad weather on the previous days, we can use it to complete the climb of Mt Tutoko. Alternatively, we could practice rock climbing.

Day 6: Flight out

We will fly out from Ngapunatoru Plateau and head back to Wanaka/Queenstown via Te Anau.

About the guide

guide profile img

We are a group of 46 certified mountain guides, guiding during the winter and summer, in New Zealand but also all around the world. Our organisation is affiliated to the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA), New
Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) and a corporate member of the American Alpine Club (AAC).

We perform to IFMGA/UIAGM standards and are world leaders in high altitude guiding.

We organise large expeditions, trekking and skiing trips. We also have a climbing school.

Please don't hesitate to contact us if you would like to have more information and details about our mountain guides organisation and the guiding trip we do.

For booking assistance

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Prices per person

Group of 1

NZD 7062 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

• Guiding fee

• Accommodation

• Transportation from your hotel/airport (if in area) to the start of the trip and back

• Transport during the trip

• Permit and entrance fees

• Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Price details

• The price also includes the Department of Conservation concession fees (37125-GUI),15% New Zealand Goods and Services Tax, as well as aircraft access and egress.

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