ALPAMAYO AT 5947 M & QUITARAJU AT 6040 M.
This couple peaks are located on Santa Cruz valley. Alpamayo has been considered the “Most Beautiful Mountain in the World wide” by its great beauty flouted icefall on the south – west face & perfect pyramidal shape on the north side. In Jancarurish valley, nowadays the normal route is located in Santa Cruz valley on the west wall, on the directra francesa for Alpamayo and on the north ridge for Quitaraju. Both routes require a wide climbing knowledge, good shape and technique to climb. From the summit a major part of cordillera Blanca is visible, deep valleys and glacier lakes.
Below you will find the daily program.
DAY 1: Huaraz (3100m) – Caraz (2200m) – Cashapampa (2970m) – Llama coral (3760m). (Driving time: 3 hours / trek time: 4 hours – walk up).
Departure from Huaraz at 7:00am along Callejón de Huaylas until Caraz. Then we will continue driving on dirt road until Cashapampa village at 2900m, where we are going to meet with our donkey drivers. From this village our climb gears will be transported by donkeys until Llamacoral campsite. Overnight camp at Llamacoral.
DAY 2: Llama Coral (3760m) – Alpamayo base camp (4330m). (Trek time: 5 hours – walk up).
After our breakfast at 8:00am we will walk up along quebrada Santa Cruz. On the way we pass by two beautiful glacier lakes until Quisuar. Then we will walk up on several switchbacks to Base Camp at 4300m. Overnight at Alpamayo base camp.
DAY 3: Alpamayo base Camp (4300m) – Moraine Camp (4900m) – Alpamayo high Camp I (5400m). (Climbing time: 8 hours – ascent).
This day after our breakfast at 6:00am we usually start walking up the steep path with porters help until we reach moraine camp at 4900m. From this place we will put on our climb gear and tools. Then we will start climbing up toward high camp over the glacier with porters help. It’s a big day. The high camp is usually on the high pass between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. In the afternoon we will enjoy gorgeous west wall of Alpamayo mountain with spectacular sunset. Overnight at Alpamayo high camp.
DAY 4: Alpamayo high Camp (5400m) – Alpamayo summit (5947m) – high Camp (5400m). (Climbing time: 14 hours – ascent & descent).
Summit day. Rising early at 1:00am, we cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base of the Southwest Face. From it we will start climbing up the huge flouted ice wall or directa frances route with 500m of ice wall, with 60° – 70° & 80° pitches. After climbing for many hours we will reach the top, where we are going to have the most spectacular view about glacier lakes. Several snowcapped peaks will be around us as: Huandoy, Pisco, Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, Pirámide Garcilazo, group Pucajircas, Taulliraju and Huascaran mountains. We usually descend on the same route with rappels until High Camp. Overnight at Alpamayo high camp.
DAY 5: High Camp (5400m) – Quitaraju summit (6040m) – high camp (5400m).
Summit day. Rising early at 1:00am, we cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base of the northeast Face, where we will start climbing the huge ice wall. After many hours climbing, we reach the top at 6040m. There, we will see many glacier lakes and several peaks as: Huandoy, Pisco, Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, Pirámide Garcilazo, Pucajircas, Taulliraju, Alpamayo and Huascaran mountains. Then we usually descend on the same route up with rappels until High Camp. Overnight at high camp Alpamayo.
DAY 6: High Camp (5400m) – Alpamayo Base Camp (4300m). (Climbing time: 6 hours – descent).
After our breakfast we will start descending with two rappels at the first time. Then we retrace toward Base Camp. Overnight at base camp Alpamayo.
DAY 7: Alpamayo base camp (4300m) – Cashapampa (2970m) – Huaraz. (Trek time: 7 hours – walk down).
We walk down on the Santa Cruz valley until Cashapampa village at 2970m, where our private transport will be waiting to drive us to Huaraz. End of our expeditions.
If you are interested in this climbing trip, contact me for more information. I would be thrilled to guide you in the cordillera Blanca.
Spots of interest
Punto mas importante
cumbre de alpamayo y quitaraju
Price per person
- Guiding fee
- Transport during the trip
- Group equipment
All meals are included except for the ones in Huaraz city. For the rest of the trip, we will have a cook specialized in normal and vegetarian dishes.
• Maximum altitude: 5947 m. (Alpamayo summit).
• You should do early book to get special discounts.
PERSONAL CLIMBING GEAR
- Climbing boots.