There are not many mountains that demand as much respect and inspire awe such as the Eiger. The daunting north face was the last of “the great problems” of the Alps to be solved. Not all routes leading to the summit of the Eiger are hardcore. The Mittellegi ridge is a perfect example of a classic mountaineering route which most competent climbers can accomplish.
The best way by far to prepare for climbing the Eiger is by spending the week doing similar climbs. This will not only help you acclimatize, but will also improve your general level of competence and skills in mountaineering. This 7 day program allows for specific preparation on shorter routes of the same nature to better optimize your chance for success. My customized Eiger program is run on a 1:1 ratio, allowing for optimal time to hone the needed skills for success.
This is the typical program for a 7-day trip.
DAY 1 – Altitude training
Today will be your first experience with the high mountains. We get underway with a tram ride to the top of the Helbronner lift on the Italian side of the massif.
DAY 2 – Aiguille d’Entreves
Climb the Aiguille du Moine (3450 m). This is a perfect test climb for the Matterhorn as it is essentially on rock, some very sound granite. Most of the climbing is in the 3rd and 4th class range. It includes many sections similar to that found on the Matterhorn. The ascent takes about 6 hours round trip and includes a very short approach from the Couvercle hut on a snow field, followed by a few easy pitches of climbing up gullies and chimneys to reach a series of easier ledges. After the climb, we will head back down the Mer de Glace and take the train back into Chamonix for the night.
DAY 3 – Dent du Géant
This peak reaching just over 4000 m is a perfect training climb for the Matterhorn. The ascent and altitude make it the ideal test prior to the Matterhorn.
DAY 4 – Training climb in Chamonix
Do a short climb such as the Aiguille de l’M or the Cosmiques Arête. Which climb will depend upon which skills you need to work on most. We will spend time talking about the following days ascent and do any last minute preparations needed that afternoon in town. The idea is to have a short day to and be fresh for the Matterhorn.
DAY 5 – Extra prep day or rest/weather day
Depending on your fitness, fatigue and of course the weather, this day is used as reserve. If all goes well and the weather is good, we will certainly spend part of the day doing some great rock climbing in the valley.
DAY 6 -Mittelligi cabin
From the train station in Grindelwald, we will take the famous cog wheel train up through the pastures and alpine meadows lying below the North Face of the Eiger to the Kleine Scheidegg hotel/restaurant, and then on through the inside of the Eiger up to the Eismeer station (3160 m). A short, light lunch and then we are off to the Mittelligi hut (3356 m), spectacular surroundings and awesome views!
DAY 7 – The Eiger
A quick alpine breakfast and we are off on our way by the light of our headlamps. The climbing heads up the along the narrow Mittelligi ridge, past several sections of fixed ropes which come in very handy at times. We finally reach the snow covered summit of the Eiger. Once at the summit, the views down towards the North Face are literally breathtaking. However, our journey doesn’t stop here, as we need to continue on with our decent. We have two options:
1) Make a long traverse to go back to the Jungfraujoch station or
2) Make the classic descent down the west face of the mountain back to the rail station at the Klein Scheidegg. Whichever one we choose, the celebratory beer will surely taste great!
Please note that the actual course details and climbs may vary depending on conditions and or participants level.
If you are interested in this set of climbs and final Eiger climb, contact me! I would be happy to train you and help you reach your goals.
Light is right
Being light means being able to move quickly, therefore with a greater safety margin – and with more pleasure. Select your clothing and gear with this in mind. Buy items that offer a double function – such as a windproof vest. By simply taking two extra everything and overloading your pack, you are going to slow yourself down – and that doesn’t make you a safer or better climber…
Let’s discuss together about your equipment, what you need to wear and have in your backpack.
– Personal equipment
– Lift passes
– Lunches or drinks
– Travel to or from the course departure point
– Guide fees
– Lodging on a half board basis
– Lift services
– Group equipment and local transportation
2,895 € pp
Maximum group size is 1 : 1
If more than 2 participants sign, each guest will climb with their own private guide
Level PD to AD
This course is for climbers with previous experience on snow and rock
Excellent base fitness and previous experience necessary.
Geneva Intl Airport, Switzerland – GVA
Trip meeting point
7 days, 6 nights
This course is available on a custom basis from July through September. You can choose your dates. Please inquire for availability.
Spots of interest
Most important point
There are not many mountains that demand as much respect and inspire awe such as the Eiger.
Price per person
- Guiding fee
- Transport during the trip
- Group equipment
|Trip meeting point: Chamonix, France. Local airport: Geneva Intl Airport, Switzerland - GVA Level: Excellent base fitness and previous experience necessary. Climbing grade: Level PD to AD. This course is for climbers with previous experience on snow and rock. If more than 2 participants sign, each guest will climb with their own private guide. Price includes half board. Group equipment is included, but not personal equipment. Lift services are included, but not lift passes.Light is right: Being light means being able to move quickly, therefore with a greater safety margin - and with more pleasure. Select your clothing and gear with this in mind. Buy items that offer a double function – such as a windproof vest. By simply taking two extra everything and overloading your pack, you are going to slow yourself down - and that doesn't make you a safer or better climber...|