ALPAMAYO CLIMBING AT 5947 M
Alpamayo mountain has been considered the “Most Beautiful Mountain in the World wide” by his great beauty flouted icefall on the south – west face & perfect pyramidal shape on the north side in Jancarurish valley, nowadays the normal route is located in Santa Cruz valley on the west wall on the directa francesa route, this route require a wide knowledge, good shape and technique to climb.
Maximum altitude: 5947 m. (Alpamayo summit).
• Difficulty: Very hard – technique.
• Duration: 6 days / 5 nights.
• Preferred time: May – September.
• Location: Cordillera Blanca.
• Average temperature: Between 13° C – 23° C during the day/ at night -05°C to – 02°C on the top – 10°C.
DAY 1: Huaraz at (3100m) – Caraz at (2200m) – Cashapampa at (2970m) – Llama coral at (3760m). (Driving time: 3 hours / trek time: 4 hours (walk up).
Departure from Huaraz at 7:00 am, along Callejón de Huaylas until Caraz then we will continue driving on dirt road until Cashapampa village at 2900 m, where we are going to meet with our donkey drivers; From this village our climb gears will be transported by donkeys until Llamacoral campsite. Overnight camp at Llamacoral
DAY 2: Llama Coral at (3760m) – Alpamayo base camp. at (4330m). (Trek time: 5 hours (walk up).
After our breakfast at 8:00e will walk up along Quebrada Santa Cruz on the way passing by two beautiful glacier lakes until Quisuar then we will walk up on several switchbacks to Base Camp at 4300m. Overnight at Alpamayo base camp.
DAY 3: Alpamayo base camp at (4300m) – Moraine Camp at (4900m) – Alpamayo high Camp I at (5400m). (Climbing time: 8 hours (ascent).
This day after our breakfast at 6:00m we usually start walking up the steep path with porters help until reach moraine camp at 4900m, from this place we will put on our every climb gear and tools, then we will start climbing up toward high camp over the glacier with Porters help, It’s a big day; the high camp is usually located on the high pass between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. In the afternoon we will enjoy gorgeous west wall of mount Alpamayo with spectacular sunset. Overnight at Alpamayo high camp.
DAY 4: Alpamayo high Camp at (5400m) – Alpamayo summit (5947m) – high Camp at (5400m). (Climbing time: 14 hours (ascent & descent).
Summit day, Rising early at 1:00 am, we cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base of the Southwest Face, from it we will start climbing up the huge flouted ice wall o directa frances route with 500m of ice wall, with 60° – 70° & 80° pitches, After climbing for many hours we will reach the top, where we are going to have the most spectacular view about glacier lakes, several snowcapped peaks around us as: Huandoy, Pisco, Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, Pirámide Garcilazo, group Pucajircas, Taulliraju and Huascaran mountains . We usually Descent on the same route with rappels until High Camp. Overnight at Alpamayo high camp.
DAY 5: Alpamayo high Camp at (5400m) – Alpamayo Base Camp (4300m). (Climbing time: 6 hours (descent).
After our breakfast we will start descending with two rappels at the first time then we retrace toward Base Camp. Overnight at base camp Alpamayo.
DAY 6: Alpamayo base camp. at (4300m) – Cashapampa at (2970m) – Huaraz. (Trek time: 7 hours (walk down).
We walk down on the Santa Cruz valley until Cashapampa village at 2970m, where will be waiting us our private transport to drive Huaraz. End our expeditions.
OUR CLIMB PRICE INCLUDE:
• Qualified mountain guide.
• Cook specialized in normal and vegetarian dishes.
• Full first aid kid.
• Camping equipment (double sleeping tent, matrass, and etc.).
• Equipment and cook tools (cook tent, chairs, table and full utensil kitchen).
• Climbing gear (climbing boots, crampons, harness, ice axe rope, etc).
• Personalized service of “K2 Peru Adventures”.
• Donkey driver, who is allowed to drive 5 donkeys.
• Donkeys service to transport our climbing logistic.
• Porters, who are support loading our collective climbing gear from base camp to moraine camp.
• Private transport from Huaraz – Cashapampa / Cashapampa – H.uaraz
• Climbing meal (breakfast, picnic or lunch and dinner).
• The meal contain enough carbohydrate to recover the lost energy during the trek (omelet, soup, fresh fruit, meats, pasta, raze, hot drinks, coca tea, which is ideal for altitude sickness).
THE PRICE NOT INCLUDES:
– Climbing permits to Huascaran national park 65.00 soles
– alimentation in huaraz city
– sleeping bag (adequate -15° C)
• you should do early book to get special discounts
• For booking validation you should deposit a 40% of total price, and rest 60% you pay when you arrive to Peru or huaraz.
• Our accommodation service has hot water, private bathroom, TV with cable connection, restaurant, cafe shop, which is located at down town
• Bus service from Lima – huaraz – Lima with “Cruz del sur or movil tours” with Wi-Fi connection.
• Dear visitors you should know that our company service is available to provide wherever information regarding our trip, for detailed information you should request us and we will reply as soon as possible, because we have an expert guide available.
• Our trek rates can change according the book time and number of participants, contact with us for more information please.
PERSONAL CLMBING GEAR :
– Climbing boots.
– Polar Tec or wool gloves.
– Sun hat.
– Polar Tec or wool cap.
– Sun glasses UV protection.
– A back pack between 40 l to 70 l.
– Light weight Waterproof jacket Gore-Tex.
– Light weight Waterproof pants Gore-Tex.
– Water bottle.
– Sun scream.
– Personal first aid kid.
– Hiking poles.
– Overcoat clothes.
– A camera.
– Sleeping bag -15° C.
– Personal toilets and small synthetic towel.