Two main routes exist to climb the Citlaltépetl or Pico de Orizaba: the one on the south side and the one on the north side. During this trip, we will go through the north face. As you know, it is the side where you have less solar incidence, hence it’s where the glacier of the volcano lays. The Citlaltépetl (5636 m) is the highest peak in Mexico and has the largest glacier in Mexico. In addition, due to its geographical location, it is the area in the world where trees are growing in more altitude. We can find pines a little above the 4000 m.
It’s a walk on a glacier with slopes of up to 50º and possible crossing of crevasses. Therefore we will use crampons, ice axe and we will be roped to walk.
The first approach to Piedra Grande Hut at the base of the glacier takes about three hours. We walk through an area of stones called the labyrinth. It is a hike without much technical difficulty. We only have to be careful with the ice on the rocks (over glass).
The interesting part of the Pico de Orizaba climb begins when we enter the glacier where we rope up and start walking on the ice. It’s a hike of 5-7 hours depending on the weather conditions, the glacier and how we physically feel. At the end of the route, we have to be very careful to be well acclimatized and take care of the sickness of the height. Above 5000 m, we will start feeling affected by the effects of atmospheric pressure.
As always in the mountains, conditions can change quickly. We may find summer storms with possible snowfall, wind gusts up to 70 km/h. The temperature in the morning can drop to -10°C in extreme conditions and wind increases the cold feeling.
Hopefully, we will find good weather conditions and try to do everything to have a good acclimatization. The most important is to have a good attitude to adversity to work as a team and we all achieve our goal.
I can adjust the itinerary to two or three days.
Do not hesitate to contact me so we start organizing your trip!
And another great climbing expedition we can do together in Mexico is the ascent of the Iztaccihuatl volcano!
Price per person
|Group of 2||400USD|
|Group of 3||267USD|
|Group of 4||200USD|
- Guiding fee
Technical equipment: helmet, ice axe, crampons, harness, cooking equipment, ropes, kit, GPS. Undoubtedly, you have to take full gear for high mountains, ice ax, crampons, helmet and harness. You may not use it, but not bringing it can complicate strongly ascent or descent. So let's go the best equipped!
Personal equipment: comfortable boots (preferably waterproof and light), backpack (at least 30 L), head lamp, sunscreen, sunglasses, thermal underwear (first layer), comfortable and athletic pants (no jeans), long-sleeved shirt (preferably breathable or athletic type), sweater or sweatshirt (polar type or thermal material), waterproof jacket, hat, cap, scarf or bandana, gloves (preferably two pairs: the first thin and the second thick and waterproof,quality to go above 0°C), thermal socks (a polypropylene layer is recommended, also 1 pair in wool and 2 pairs in cotton).
You can rent: crampons 25$, ice axe 10$, helmet 10$, harness 10$, backpack 15$, tent 20$.
Precautions and preparations:
Food: The most important meals can be made in the village or at the resort. On Sunday and during the walk we recommend bringing food with high energy and high in carbohydrates (nuts, seeds, peanuts, chocolates, etc.). You should also bring some fruit, energy bars, candy, etc. In addition to something more substantial in the evening (like a cake, or something salty and easily digestible). Especially think what one likes to eat.