Marcelo, an ASEGUIM certified guide, wants to guide you on a 5 day introductory level mountaineering course in the Andes of Ecuador.
In the Andes of Ecuador there is an assortment of amazing peaks to climb. However, it is crucial to know how to properly, safely and securely climb those majestic peaks. And over the course of 5 days, I would like to thoroughly instruct you how do that. And on the final day of this adventure, you will get to take what you have learned and scale one of the most impressive peaks in the area, Cayambe (5,790m). The third highest peak in Ecuador, Cayambe is an amazing mountain. And the views you will get from its summit, just as the sun starts rising, are second spectacular.
The trip will begin in the capital city of Quito. From there, we will drive for approximately 2 hours to the Refugio Ruales-Oleas-Berge (4,600m). This refuge will be our base, as well as our shelter for four consecutive nights. Around the refuge, you will learn a number of important skills. A few examples of those skills include equipment use and care, climbing knots, risk management and more. We will also venture to a nearby glacier during the course. There you will learn an assortment of important skills from how to properly use crampons and an ice axe to basic rescue skills. We will also dedicate a full day to crevasse rescue. Finally, we will dedicate a day to preparing for the fifth and final day of this trip, which will have you climbing to the summit of Cayambe.
If you want to learn what it takes to climb a great peak in Ecuador, and then take what you’ve learned and actually climb a great peak in Ecuador, this 5 day trip is for you. Just send me a request, and I’ll see you in Quito.
Refugio Ruales-Oleas-Bergé (4,600m)
The itinerary is subject to change as a result of weather, snow and road conditions, as well as the health of the participants.
Today we will drive from Quito to the Refugio Ruales-Oleas-Bergé, on Cayambe in the Cayambe National Park. When we arrive, the course will begin, covering topics from risk management to altitude physiology. We will have dinner and spend the night in the refuge.
We will wake up at 8:00 am. After breakfast, we will trek for 30 minutes to the glacier where we will spend the day. On the glacier, we will go over many things, from basic rescue skills to snow and ice anchors. We will return to the refuge at approximately 4:30 pm for dinner and rest for the night.
Split between the area around the refuge and the glacier, the focus of today will be crevasse rescue and how to do it properly and safely. We will return to the refuge at approximately 5:30 pm for dinner and rest for the night.
The day will begin 7:30 am. We will go to the glacier, where you will practice what you have learned the last two days, along with learning new skills, in preparation for the following day’s climb. We will return to the refuge at approximately 5:00 pm where we will have dinner and rest early.
We will wake up very early, at 1:00 am, have breakfast and make our way to the Cayambe summit. It will take approximately 10 to 12 hours to make the ascent and descent. After we return to the refuge, we will have a hot lunch and drive back to Quito.
I was literally born into hiking boots. At the age of 10, I was already racing up and down the mountains and was allowed to accompany my father on his adventures.
Since then, I have climbed all the peaks in the Ecuadorian Andean countless times. In 1999, I moved to Germany for five years and, apart from learning German, I also found time to climb and hike in the Alps. I climbed Grossglockner and Mont Blanc, among many other peaks.
I am a member of the Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association (ASEGUIM) and a loyal member of the German Alpine Club Section Cologne (DAV).
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