Climb giant Mount Logan (5,960m) in the southwest corner of the Yukon Territory, in Western Canada. Join a 20- to 25-day advanced ski mountaineering expedition led by IFMGA-certified mountain guide David.
If you are a passionate, advanced ski mountaineer looking for a new, challenging adventure, this trip is for you!
Mount Logan (5,960m) is located in the Saint Elias Mountains – shared by the United States and Canada –, in the southwest corner of the Yukon Territory, in western Canada. It is part of the Kluane National Park (22,013km2) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Logan is the highest peak in Canada and the second in North America. It is surrounded by the world’s largest non-polar ice terrain and located 140 kilometers from the nearest road, making it a very challenging destination for alpinists.
There are numerous routes to Mount Logan’s top. On our trip we will ascend via the famous King’s Trench route. This track offers a long, glacial landscape, generally pretty straightforward for ski touring, and involves overnight high altitude winter camping. The ascent is of 3,500 meters over 23 kilometers, and provides a breathtaking view to some of the largest glaciers on Earth. This journey’s main challenge is not the technical difficulty but the possibility of facing extreme weather conditions, plus the physical demands of carrying supplies and equipment at high altitudes during several weeks.
Our expedition will depart from Whitehorse (640m), Yukon’s capital. We will take a small plane to the King’s Trench base camp (2,800m), from where we will begin our gradual ski ascent; at first, pulling supplies and equipment with sleds up to King Col (4,000m); and then carrying everything in our backpacks up to Prospector Col (5,500m). From here to our high camp, we will only climb a maximum of 600 meters per day to ensure the team acclimatizes properly to the high altitude. Finally, we will wait for the best weather conditions to try to reach the main summit.
Please note that the weather will have a great influence on our itinerary and chances of successfully reaching the summit. It is pretty common to encounter big snowstorms with very strong winds during the ascent. Temperatures usually range from -15°C at night to 0°C during the day. Closer to the summit, it will be colder, often below -30°C at night.
This is an advanced ski mountaineering program. You must have overnight winter camping experience and be an intermediate to advanced downhill skier. Previous high altitude mountaineering practice, as well as experience with carrying a heavy backpack (50lbs/22.6kg approx.) while pulling sleds will be very helpful. Participants will have to carry their personal gear and often even some of the group equipment as well.
Don’t miss this uniquely challenging and rewarding ski mountaineering experience. Book your trip now!
If you would like to consider other activities in Canada, check out the 5-day ski tour in the Kokanee Glacier Park in British Columbia and the Mount Columbia ski mountaineering 4-day trip. We can discuss your skill level and experience, and find the tour that suits you best.
2 nights in a hotel in Whitehorse (1 before and one after the trip) and approx. 20 winter camping nights
The trip could end 1 to 2 days earlier, or even 6 days later, depending on flights’ schedule and weather conditions. A successful ascent to Mount Logan is not guaranteed. Whether we successfully climb to the summit or not will depend on the weather, avalanche and snow conditions along the way, as well as on participants’ fitness level.
You need to bring: Technical Equipment: • Alpine Touring skis (lightweight bindings like Dynafit or Silvretta Pure is recommended) • Alpine touring boots (with Vibram sole) • Overboots for higher elevation • Ski poles (with regular powder baskets) • Climbing skins (at least as wide as the waist of your ski) • Ski crampons • Avalanche transceiver (475 megahertz with extra batteries) • Lightweight snow shovel • Avalanche probe • Large sized backpack (70 to 80 liters) with rain cover and outside straps to attach skis. It should be rigged for sled hauling. • Climbing harness for glacier travel • Ice Axe (preferably light weight with a maximum length of 60cm) • Boot crampons (preferably lightweight, e.g. aluminum) • 4 locking carabiners (the guide will bring a full set of Crevasse rescue equipment) • 4 non-locking carabiners • Prusik cords (2 times 5m length of 7mm cord) • 1m section of 6mm cord • 1 X 10mm X 120cm sewn spectra sling • Repair kit / spare parts for your bindings (optional) • Skin wax (a small amount) • Ski goggles • Large duffel bag Clothing: • Gore Tex shell jacket (expedition style with hood) • Gore Tex outer pants/bibs (wind and waterproof with full side zips) • Down jacket (expedition weight with hood) • Lighter weight pants (water/wind proof for lower elevation and camp) • Fleece pants (heavy weight with full side zips) • Fleece jacket (heavy weight) • Medium weight fleece shirt and vest (e.g. Marmot Driclime) • 3 sets Capilene, fleece or wool underwear, top and bottoms • 2 Pairs of gloves (lightweight and heavier weight) • 1 Pair of expedition weight mitts with over mitts • Neck gaiter & bandanna • 3 pairs of thicker outer socks (synthetic, wool or blend) • 3 pairs of thinner liner socks (polypro type) • 2 hats; one medium weight & one heavy weight covering the ears Camp & personal supplies: • Down Sleeping bag (mommy style, rated for -30°C) • Sleeping bag liner (optional) • Sleeping pad (3⁄4 or full length Therm-a-Rest) • Sleeping pad, full length Ensolite • Camp booties and over booties (down or synthetic) • 1 liter water bottle with insulated sleeve (no Camel backs) • Pee bottle; 1 liter Nalgene water bottle with wide rim • Lightweight bowl, cup, fork and spoon • Light stuff sacs or zip lock bags to keep your backpack organized • Ear plugs • Sun glasses with side and nose shield, and very good UV protection (plus one extra pair) • Sun screen and lip protection (minimum 30 SPF and waterproof) • Sun hat (preferably with wide rim) • Headlamp with spare batteries and bulb • Personal items (toiletries, hand sanitizer, toothbrush, glasses, foot powder, etc.) • Personal 1 aid (blister kit, prescription drugs, Aspirin & Ibuprofen, etc.) • Pocket knife • Health/travel insurance documents/numbers • Zip lock bag for wallet and other documents to keep them dry (recommended) • Camera, batteries, music • A small book and/or writing material
Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada
We will share a relaxing dinner followed by a final gear check. Based on the weather conditions and forecast, we will go over last minute changes and logistics for the following days. We will also sign a liability waiver.
We will take a 5-hour shuttle from Whitehorse to a landing strip at Kluane Lake, the largest lake in Yukon. Before heading into the mountains to King’s Trench base camp, we will set a camp near the landing strip. Flights can only accommodate two guests at a time and are often delayed due to the weather conditions, so we might have to camp for up to five days or more.
After an early breakfast, we will fly in a small plane to the basecamp.
After an early breakfast, we will begin our ascent to Mount Logan.
We will spend the nights in mountain camps.
The descent from Mount Logan to our pick-up location and flight back will take 1 or 2 days. Depending on the time, from the landing strip, we will either camp or shuttle back to Whitehorse.
I am an IFMGA and ACMG-certified mountain guide based in Nelson, British Columbia. I'm the lead guide at Summit Mountain Guides, a guiding agency I co-founded back in 2007 and which offers year-round guiding services and courses in Canada and Europe.
The mountains of western Canada have been my playground since 1992. I'll be happy to take you mountaineering, backcountry skiing, rock climbing, hiking or ice climbing in this area I know so well. From day trips to multi-day adventures, I can guarantee an unforgettable and safe experience.
The SMG team of guides will help you with your trip's logistics, safety and contingency plans so that you get the most out of your backcountry experience and can just focus on having an amazing time on the mountain!
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Group of 1
|USD 42990 each|
Group of 2
|USD 21495 each|
Group of 3
|USD 14330 each|
Group of 4
|USD 10748 each|
Group of 5
|USD 8598 each|
Group of 6
|USD 7165 each|
Want a different number of travellers?
- Guiding fee
- Transport during the trip
- Permit and entrance fees
- Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
Please note that the US$6950 price is based on a group of 6.
• Transport during trip (round-trip shuttle from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake and ski plane from Kluane Lake to King’s Trench base camp)
• Winter camping equipment (sleds, kitchen and sleeping tents, stoves, fuel, cooking supplies)
• Group safety equipment (satellite phone, ropes, rescue kit, high altitude 1st aid kit, GPS, maps)
• All breakfasts and dinners while on the mountain, plus hot drinks
• Park Permits and Liability Insurance.
Price doesn't include:
• GST 5%
• Air travel to/from Whitehorse
• Hotel in Whitehorse (1 night before the trip & 1 after)
• Camping and meals in Kluane Lake while on standby to depart flight (4 to 5 nights)
• Lunch, snacks, and cold drinks
• Personal ski and technical equipment and expedition clothing
• Personal winter camping equipment (sleeping bag, Therm-a-Rest)
• Any additional costs related to itinerary changes (any extra fees incurred if trip extends a few days)
• Trip cancellation insurance, adventure travel/rescue insurance, and medical insurance.