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Self-guided expedition on Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan (Pamir Mountains)

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Ivan, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, offers you the logistics and support you need for a self-guided expedition to the famous Lenin Peak (7134m) in the Pamir Mountains.


TRIP TYPE

Private

MOUNTAIN RANGES

Pamir

DURATION

21 Days

OFFER PERIOD

Jul, Aug

FITNESS LEVEL

Fit

SKILL LEVEL

Intermediate

PAYMENT METHODS

Credit Card, Wire Transfer and more!

Description

If you are planning to climb Lenin Peak  (7134) in Kyrgyzstan, I have a great  proposal for you. I offer you the logistics and support you need for a 21-day self-guided expedition to this famous peak in the Pamir Mountains. Of course, you can choose if you prefer to climb on your own or to hire a guide to accompany you.

Lenin Peak lies on the border Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and it is one of the highest mountains in the former Soviet Union. Despite its high altitude it is considered one of the most accessible over 7000-meter mountains to climb, attracting climbers from all over the world every season.

Additional reasons for the peak’s popularity are the green pastures and relative warmth at Base Camp, offering a very different surrounding from other peaks in the area. Also, the chance to discover the nomadic culture, very much alive in this region.

Lenin Peak is climbed all year round, although you find the best snow conditions and highest temperature from early July to mid August, when the weather is usually quite stable. At the end of August, storms occur with higher frequency.

In spring the weather is quite good, although the melting of glaciers and snow fields, deep snow and avalanche danger make summit attempts very hard. In autumn, the first snowfalls hide dangerous crevasses and make the climb even harder.

There are several routes to the summit, but the classical route starts from the north side. It does not require  any special technical climbing skills and it does not have any steep ice-rock sections.

Our meeting point will be Bishkek, the country’s capital. Next morning we will fly to the city of Osh. The Osh- Achik-Tash Base Camp (3600m) is situated in the alpine meadows between two steep river valleys.

The route to Camp 1 (4200m) takes you across a meadow following a narrow, steep, path that ascends towards a pass, after which there is a glacial moraine stretching Lenin Glacier’s left side. In Camp 1 there is a permanent campsite with electricity, toilet facilities and running water. The ascent continues through Camp 2 (5200m) and Camp 3 (6100m) until you reach the summit. You can see below a  possible day-by-day itinerary.

So if you are interested in this proposal, just send me a request. I will be happy to help you on your way to the summit of Lenin Peak! I also offer a 23-day guided ascent expedition to Lenin Peak. Check it out!

I work together with a group of guides, so if I’m not available, one of my colleagues will guide you.

Itinerary

Day 1: Bishkek - Osh

Arrival to Manas International Aiport in Bishkek, capital of Kyrgyzstan. Flight to the city of Osh. Transfer to
hotel. Night in hotel.

Day 2: Achik-Tash Base Camp (3600m)

Transfer (280 km, about 8 hours) from Osh to Achik-Tash Base Camp.
Arrival to Base Camp (BC, 3600 m). Accommodation in 2-people tents. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.

Day 3: Altitude adjustment - First stage

First phase of altitude adjustment near Base Camp.

Day 4: Climb to Camp 1 - Altitude adjustment second stage

Second phase of altitude  adjustment: climb to Camp 1 (4200 m).

Day 5: Yukhin peak (5100m)

Ascent to Yukhin Peak (5100 m). Night in tents in the summit.

Day 6: Return to Camp 1 (4200m)

Day 7: Rest Day at Camp 1

Day 8: Climb to Camp 2 (5200m)

Day 9: Ascent to camp 3 (6100m) and descent to Camp 2

Day 10: Climb to camp 3 (6100m) from Camp 2 (5200m)

Day 11: Descent to Camp 1 and then to Base Camp

Day 12: Rest day in Camp 1

Day 13: Beginning of summit attempt. Descend to Camp 1.

Day 14: Ascent to Camp 2

Day 15: Ascent to Camp 3

Day 16: Lenin Peak -Summit day! up to the summit (7134 m) and back to the Camp 3.

We climb up to the Lenin Peak summit (7134 m) and descend back to Camp 3.

Day 17: Reserve Day

Day 18: Return to Base Camp

Day 19: Base Camp-Osh

Transfer to Osh by bus. Overnight in a hotel.

Day 20: Osh - Bishkek (or return home)

Flight from Osh back home or flight to Bishkek & overnight in the hotel.

Day 21: Bishkek - Return flight

Flight back home from Bishkek.

Details

More info

Dates from Jul, 1 - Aug, 31. You need to bring your own tents and meal for Camp 2 and Camp 3 (you can buy some food in Bishkek or Osh).

Meeting point

Bishkek Airport

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