Jul, Aug, Sep
Meet in Zermatt for a briefing about the trip and check gear.
An early tram ride to reach the Klein Matterhorn. From here we have a couple of options but we will probably decide to climb the Breithorn as a warmup, before heading down the Verra glacier and pass Pollux (which is another option to climb). Then, we will continue down to the Guide d’Ayas Hut (3420m) to spend the night.
Climb the Castor (4,223m) and descend the stunning ridge line to reach the Felikjoch. From here we have a pretty straightforward descent down the glacier to reach the Sella hut (3858m) for the night.
Today we will enjoy a traverse below the enormous south face of Liskamm, over the steep “nez” or the Lysgletscher. Then we’ll possibly climb the Vincent Pyramid prior to reaching the Mantova hut. Overnight stay there.
It is also possible to traverse over the entire ridge line of the two summits (west and east), both of which reach well above 4500m. To do this variation it’s necessary to have solid knowledge about the use of crampons as well as an excellent fitness. Good snow and weather conditions are also mandatory. It is a long, exposed traverse that will only be done in a 1:1 ratio.
From the Mantova Hut, we will ascend again to the Lysgletscher and the Lysjoch, and then continue to the Margherita Hut (the highest hut in the Alps at 4554m). We can climb another 4000m peak, the Parrotspitze, before spending the night at the Margherita hut.
We will need a final dawn we choose to traverse the Zumsteinspitze en route to Monte Rosa’s highest peak: the Dufourspitze (4618m). The climbing and the views are really dramatic. From here, we’ll use a series of steep fixed ropes to reach the Silbersattel. Then the route becomes easier down the long glacier and even longer moraine to reach the Monte Rosa hut for the last night.
After a breakfast we’ll have a simple descent back down to the Gorner glacier and an uphill path leading to Rotenboden and the Gornergrat railway which takes us back into Zermatt for a well deserved celebration!
The price does not include:
Lodging in town,
Drinks and lift fees for you and the guide,
Travel to or from the starting point,
IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide
I am a professional mountain & ski guide. I have been guiding now since 1994. I have always been into the mountains – skiing at age 4 and secretly sneaking away for overnight bivouacs in the mountains behind my parents house. At age 13, I decided to pursue my airy scrambles for something that looked a bit more fun. I went to work as an assistant bringing out other young teenagers on exciting hiking and more importantly to me, climbing outings. One thing led to another and before I knew it my world revolved around the mountains.
At the age of 18 I moved to France to pursue my passions, later becoming actively involved with the French Alpine Club in Dijon and organizing outings and putting up climbing routes here and there in Burgundy.
In 1992, I entered the infamous ENSA or French guides school in Chamonix and became the first American to receive international certification (UIAGM/IFMGA) through this prestigious school.
Since then I have been making my living as a full time professional guide, climbing and skiing in many of the worlds great mountain ranges. I speak fluent French, some Italian and I am now learning German.
Previously I have worked as a technical consultant for Petzl, and Grivel.
If you are looking for a great adventure, skiing or climbing, please get in touch with and let's discuss about it.
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