Ascensions - Andes argentines : Les meilleures aventures en plein air vous attendent

This review was for a guide (Gaston Lopez) sent by Hernan. This was the worst guiding I've experienced on any trip taken over the last 8 years on over a dozen trips around the world. Numerous issues that you would not expect from a guide who's been certified for 12+ years. The most significant being: suggested I could wear normal hiking boots on a 6016 meter mountain (Nevado San Francisco) when I've always worn doubles on 6000 and even on cold 5000 meter mountains. An inexperienced person could have had foot issues/frost bite as it was cold the day we summited. Not knowing the route on Ojos - he suggested we try for the summit at 13:30 after moving from Arenal to the higher camp, but couldn't provide an answer when I asked what the average time was for people to summit when leaving from the high camp. We eventually had to turn around from this summit attempt because he seriously misjudged the timing and lost the route during our ascent. After this failed attempt, he said we'd make another attempt the following morning and that it would take maybe 7 hours up and 5 hours down, meaning we'd need to leave by 8:00 at the absolute latest to make it back before dark. The next morning he was still sleeping at 7:00, and hadn't mentioned anything about departure time the night before, so I left before him and led myself up to the plateau before he caught up and we went the rest of the way together. By this point I had lost all confidence in his guiding ability, advice, and planning, so I made the decision to leave on my own for the summit because I knew he wasn't leaving me enough time by sleeping in. Other issues: every time this guide verbalized the itinerary, it was different (he was clearly very disorganized and lacked basic planning skills); this was the worst and cheapest food I've experienced on any trip. Example: after an 11-hour summit day, we had canned lentils, canned vegetables, rice, tuna, and tomatoes mixed together for dinner vs. other teams that ate grilled meat, stir fry, hamburgers, tacos, etc. There was also inadequate/low quality breakfast of cookies and cereal only, as opposed to other teams eating eggs, toast with jam & peanut butter, bread/chapati, etc.; of all the guided teams at Las Grutas, we didn't have paperwork for the car to get past the gendarmie post so we had to get a ride from someone else to Nevado (shows poor planning and logistics); pacing was not great and he was so far ahead of me most of the time that he had no idea what my pace was, not to mention this is a dangerous practice in terms of keeping an eye on your client; guide had no hand sanitizer and didn't wash hands when preparing food; guide incorrectly told me I was developing HAPE because of a cough I tend to get at altitude but my oxsat was 83% and resting heart rate was ~95 bpm at 5500 meters.

Mojon Rojo was my second climb with Merlin (I climbed Cerro Electrico with him 2 days earlier.) But it was like climbing with your old friend. I had an amazing time climbing with him. His climbing skills and knowledge are top notch. I can’t wait to climb more peaks in Patagonia with him.

Awesome!

Our day trip up Cerro Madsen was amazing! There was a chance of rain in the afternoon of our trip so Merlin and team made accommodations for us to leave early in the morning to try to beat the storm and we were so happy they did. We were able to beat the rain by hiking in the morning and made the ascent up to the top of Cerro Madsen. Our guide was superb at understanding our skill level and pushing us accordingly! I would highly suggest using Mountaineering Patagonia. They are professional, provide you with some of the gear needed, and make sure you have a safe trip. Thanks Merlin!

Ich habe zusammen mit Merlin die zwei Tages Tour auf den Mojón Rojo gemacht. Es war eine geniale und abwechslungsreiche Tour und ich empfehle sie euch gerne weiter. Merlin ist ein super Guide, spricht sehr gut englisch, er kennt die Berge, Flora und Fauna und gibt das Wissen gerne weiter. Die Tour war sehr gut vorbereitet, das Equipment in einwandfreiem Zustand, sehr gutes Essen und wir hatten Glück mit dem super Wetter. Zuerst läuft mann den normalen Wanderwegen bis Campamento Poincenot, anschliessend bis zur Laguna Sucia wobei der Weg langsam endet und mann über grössere Steine und auch Felsen steigen muss bis Laguna Sucia erreicht wird. Hier, auf der Höhe der Lagune geniesst mann bereits die Sicht auf die umliegenden Berge und die tolle Farbe der Lagune. Es geht weiter am Rande der Lagune entlang bis vor dem herunterfliessenden Bächlein dann der Aufstieg beginnt. Dieser erfolgt über grössere Steine, durch den kleinen Bach, über kleines loses Geröll und in unserem Fall auch noch über einige Schneefelder wobei wir hier das erste Mal die Steigeisen verwendeten bis schlussendlich das Tagesziel, das Biwak unter dem Fels erreicht wird. Am nächsten Morgen geht es früh los, wir wollen für Sonnenaufgang oben am grossen Schneefeld sein. Der Sonnenaufgang ist atemberaubend, herrliches Panorama und perfekte Sicht auf den Fitz Roy. Danach geht es im Zweiergespann mit Steigeisen und Eispickel sehr steil Bergauf bis es nur noch Felsen hat. Jetzt dauert es nicht mehr lange bis zum Gipfel, es folgt jedoch noch eine gesicherte ca. 20m hohe Kletterpartie. Bald darauf ist unser Ziel erreicht, der Gipfel des Mojón Rojo. Glücksgefühle und 360° Aussicht, einfach perfekt und Atemberaubend! Jeder Meter und jeden Schweisstropf ist es wert. Es folgt nun der Abstieg zurück zum Biwak, dort Zusammenpacken und Mittagessen. Jetzt folgt der Rückweg. In El Chaltén angekommen kehren wir im Restaurant ein und gönnen uns ein Bier und eine Portion Pommes.