Spend an unforgettable 11 days in the Altay Mountains climbing Mount Belukha from Kazakhstan with an IMFGA guide with all the necessary skills to take you safely to the summit.
Jun, Jul, Aug
Remote, rugged, and technical, Belukha stands tall at 4,506 m (14,783 ft) as an Altai mountaineering dream. On this 11-day excursion, you will be guided to its summit by expert mountaineers from the region.
This is a mystical mountain, that is said to hold one of the sacred doors to the Buddhist spiritual kingdom of Shambhala. It is a powerful peak for curious explorers, and we will climb to the summit from Kazakhstan.
The route includes some pitches of fixed ropes and places for roped-team movement. Therefore, this is not a peak for beginners. The guide in charge will teach you everything, but you must come with some prior preparation. Also, keep in mind that we will divide the group equipment equally among all participants (including food, gas, group mountaineering equipment, etc.), so you need to be in great physical shape and be ready to carry a backpack of around 20 kg.
You can find a day-by-day description of the itinerary below. Keep in mind that it’s tentative and dependent on weather conditions as well as the group’s overall conditions.
- Guiding fee
- Accommodation included
- Transport during the trip
- Permit and entrance fees
- Mules and horses
guides (1 guide per 2 clients)
2 nights in a hotel in Ust-Kamenogorsk
Accommodation in the tent camp Altai – Pro
Sauna, shower (base camp) firewood is collected independently
Horses (for each client and equipment)
Equipment (ropes, harness, ice ax, jumar, helmet, descender, crampons)
High-rise gas, burners, high-rise cookware
Electricity in the base camp
Swimming pool in the base camp
Services of a guide-groom
Entrance fees and fees to the Katon-Karagai National Park;
Passes to the border zone
Transfer Ust-Kamenogorsk — lake Yazovoe — Ust-Kamenogorsk
PRICE NOT INCLUDED
Porter or personal guide
Tips for guide and stuff
Arrival to Ust-Kamenogorsk (UKK, Kazakhstan). There are flights via Almaty or Nur Sultan (Astana, Kazakhstan). Or you can fly to Novosibirsk (Russia) and cross the border by car (we will organize it is you prefer this variant). Transfer to the hotel.
Departure to the village Katon-Karagai (350 km) where we will get our boarding permits. Transfer to the village of Karaayryk, then off road pitch to the lake Yazovoe.
The scenic trail runs along the lake and further through the swampy area. After about 4 hours we descend to the valley of the White Berel River and organize lunch in old wintering place of Sarsenbay.
After lunch we go through the territory of the National Park between firs and cedars, along blueberry and honeysuckle bushes. Near the «Devil’s bridge» over the White Berel River we will make a stop for rest. This wooden bridge was built in 1938.
In the evening we arrive to the Kok-Kol waterfall at the Altay-pro Base Camp.
We take personal and group equipment which is divided equally among all participants (food, gas and group mountaineering gear).
We will visit the sacred place Kyndyk-Tas, where the Prayer Stone is located. It is also called the Nicholas Roerich Stone (Russian famous painter). Pilgrims gather at this place. We will reach the Great Berelsky glacier and go further along the glacier to the Camp 1. We cook food in tents. Night at Camp 1.
We will wake up early and go with full mountaineering equipment to Camp 2 (crampons, harness, helmet, ice axe). We cook food in tents. Night at Camp 1.
Climbing to the top of Belukha. We wake up at night, have fast breakfast and put on full equipment. We will meet the dawn on the summit ridge. Climbing in roped teams. In the afternoon we will descent to the Camp 2.
If the ascent was made on the 6th Day, then the reserve day can be used for descent or some trekking. The program can be adjusted with a guide.
End of the program. Overnight at the hotel.
2 nights in a hotel in Ust-Kamenogorsk, accommodation in the tent camp Altai – Pro
Ust-Kamenogorsk (UKK, Kazakhstan)
Other gear: Down jacket with a hood, large enough to put on over a fleece jacket Warm fleece / Softshell Long sleeve warm thermal underwear shirt Long sleeve underwear shirt (Light/medium) Water proof and breathable jacket with hood (Gore Tex is strongly recommended) T-shirts Fleece or Softshell pants (with full side zips to allow ventilation) Two pairs of long underwear pants (one light and one medium-warm) Waterproof and breathable pants (or bib pants) with full side zips for easy putting on and taking off Trekking pants Shorts Socks2-3 pairs 3 pairs of thermal socks (medium-heavy thickness) Hat with brim (best option) or bandana or cap Climbing (double or triple) high-altitude expedition boots Light weight trekking boots Sandals for Osh and Base camp 2 pairs Softshell gloves High-altitude warm mittens Thick hat (Softshell or fleece) Warm Balaclava or Buff (face protection) Glacier glasses Ski mask (4+ level) Extra pair of your ordinary glasses (if you wear them) Down or hollow fiber filled sleeping bag good for -15-20 degrees Celsius Sleeping pad, either a Therm-a-Rest, or a closed-cell foam pad Head lamp with extra 2 sets of batteries Water bottle 1 liter (with insulators) Thermos 1 liter Backpack 60-80 liters Additional: one day pack 40-50 liters (should be big enough to hold two liters’ thermos, a snack, extra clothing, and a camera for the summit day) – or you can use big one. Ice axe 60-70 cm Telescopic ski poles Crampons (well fitting, preferably “step-in”) Gaiters Harness Leash with 2 rope ends (Y-form) 3 Binners Belay (rappel) device + «prusik» (1,5 м of 7mm rope) Fixed rope ascender (joumar) Helmet (Attention! During transporting in luggage helmet may be damaged, we recommend you to carry it in hand baggage) Sun screen cream (spf 50+) Your specific first aid kit Lip balm (spf 25+) Favorite lightweight snacks, vitamins, isotonic Personal mug, spoon, plate.
Grigory is a passionate and experienced KMGA/IFMGA/UIAGM guide with plenty of mountaineering under his belt. He has a Russian sports master which he acquired in 2006, he was the 2007 Moscow Mountaineering Champion and has guided since 2008 in Nepal, the Caucasus, Tien Shen range, Alps, and more. He is also a Certified Alpine Ski instructor since 2014 and has an Avalanche Rescue certificate from the Russian Association of Mountain Guides.
Russian | English
KMGA | IFMGA
I climbed with Anton and Maksim; both really great guys. The trip was fully private with just myself climbing. This was a very fast trip beginning in Terskol; not the huts/barrels. Maksim and I climbed up the barrels from Terskol where we met Anton. Anton and I rested about 6 hours until midnight then made a single push to the summit and back down to barrels. The entire round trip was about 23 hours. The weather was cold, snowing/sleet, lots of wind and little to no visibility. We made good time in challenging conditions. Planning and coordination of the trip was smooth and easy. Great job and great company all the way around. Thanks!
Excellent trip well planned with superb guides Have already recommended to friends who want to climb Elbrus
Stay up-to-date on the best adventures.