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Lespezi 3-day winter ascent via the north face, Fagaras Mountains

Conquer the north face of Lespezi in Romania’s Fagaras Mountains with IFMGA-certified guide Cosmin on a 3-day winter ascent.

Mountain RangeCarpathian Mountains
Duration3 days
Offer periodJan, Nov, Dec
Skill LevelIntermediate
Fitness LevelFit
Type of tripPrivate


  • Conquer the Romanian mountain of Lespezi, the country's fifth highest.

  • Experience the wonderful winter landscape of the Fagaras Mountains.

  • Savour the sights from the rewarding summit after ascending the north face.


The Fagaras Mountains are home to spectacular peaks in Romania, where you’ll find some of the loftiest, iciest and highest alpine mountains.

Standing at 2,515 meters, Lespezi is the fifth highest peak in Romania. And with generous coatings of snow layering the slopes and valleys, Lespezi is the ideal setting for some exciting climbing.

We’ll base ourselves in the Caltun mountain hut, which rests at 2,135 meters close to the high altitude Caltun Lake.

Our approach to the refuge involves a basic hike to reach. Once we are at the base of the wall we’ll choose the line that looks in best condition. This will get us to the ridge of Lespezi and eventually to the summit.

On our challenging descent we’ll use 1 or 2 abseils while the sun’s still shining as we reach for the refuge.

Potential participants must have a good level of fitness, as well as having previous climbing experience preferably under winter conditions.

Get in touch now to reserve your place in the magnificent Fagaras Mountains on a 3-day winter ascent along the north face of Lespezi, the fifth highest peak in Romania.

More info

If we make good time and the conditions are favourable, we may be able to finish the route to reach Balea Lake. This 2-day option is only available for very fit groups, and preferably a 1:1 guide ratio. We would spend the night at a hotel at Balea Lake and descend the next morning. The price for this 2-day option is 600 EUR for 1 person (Guide ratio 1:1) or 300 EUR per person for 2 people (Guide ratio 2:1). 0.35 cents per km roundtrip travel via car from the city of Baia Mare.




Day 1: Hike to the refuge

After meeting in the morning we’ll catch the Balea Cascada cable car to Balea Lake. From here we’ll start the hike to the very basic, unstaffed, Caltun refuge (4-6 hours from Balea Lake). Overnight at Caltun refuge. We will cook dinner on gas stove and will get early into our sleeping bags.

Day 2: To the summit

An early morning start with a quick approach (20-30 mins) to the base of the wall. We will pick the line that looks in best condition and we aim on exiting the wall to the ridge in good time. We will reach the Lespezi summit before descending using 1 or 2 abseils as we return to the Caltun refuge. A second night here and a second Jetboil dinner.

Day 3: Hike back to Balea Lake

Another early start and hike back to Balea Lake (4-6 hours from Caltun refuge). Another cup of tea or maybe a hot soup at one of the hotels and then the cable car back down to Balea Cascada and to the car park.

About the guide

I'm an IFMGA guide from Romania and a member of the Eastern European Mountain Guide Association.

With two decades and a half spent doing mountain sports and nearly a decade guiding or teaching climbing my work and passion has taken me from the mountains and crags near home to the greater ranges.

Please feel free to get in touch for trips involving trekking, climbing, skiing or expeditions. I also run climbing courses (rock, ice, mixed and alpine), ski touring and winter safety workshops as well as self rescue in vertical terrain clinics.

Regular climbs from sport to multi-pitch and alpine terrain are charged on per-day rates plus expenses while expeditions are charged on a flat rate based on the size of the group and the destination.

I have a very strict policy on guide-to-guest ratios for all types of terrain and these are clearly explained prior to engagement. For multi pitch climbs it is usually 1:1 and it never exceeds 1:2. For single pitch venues (especially on instructional outings) it never exceeds 1:4. Higher ratios are possible with the hiring of additional guides and only following prior arrangements. For treks and ski tours the ratios are more generous but depending on the terrain and/or the group’s experience.

I am comfortable in using for guiding purposes the following languages: English, Romanian, French and Italian and for teaching purposes English and Romanian.

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Prices per person

Group of 1

EUR 774 each

Group of 2

EUR 387 each

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Price includes

• Guiding fee

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