Rising to 3,343 meters, Marmolada is the undisputed Queen of the Dolomites. With its glacial flanks and sheer limestone faces, it has long been a symbol of alpine grandeur. Whether you're an ambitious mountaineer, a via ferrata enthusiast, a rock climber, or a skier seeking powder turns, Marmolada offers a summit experience unlike any other in the Italian Alps.
Marmolada features several distinct summits along its ridge, but the main objective for climbers is Punta Penia (3,343m), the highest point in the entire Dolomites. Most established routes, including the normal route and the West Ridge via ferrata, aim for this prominent peak.
This guide was written with input from IFMGA-certified mountain guide Renato Bernard and his team, who are based in Campitello di Fassa. Their expert knowledge of the terrain, weather, and route conditions is essential for anyone planning a safe and rewarding ascent.
A Brief History of Marmolada
Marmolada's dramatic south face and glacier-covered north side have made it a historic mountaineering objective. Its first recorded ascent was in 1864 by Paul Grohmann via what is now known as the normal route. The mountain also played a key role in WWI, with Austrian troops constructing an "ice city" under the glacier.
On July 3, 2022, a massive serac collapse on the glacier tragically killed eleven climbers and shocked the mountaineering community. The event highlighted the accelerating impact of climate change on alpine environments. Since then, authorities have imposed new safety protocols, and some areas have been rerouted or closed depending on glacier conditions. As of 2025, guided ascents along the normal and via ferrata routes are still possible, but guides monitor glacier conditions daily to ensure safety.
The Ascent Routes
1. Normal Route via the Glacier
The traditional north face normal route to Punta Penia (3,343m), the highest point of the Marmolada massif, crosses the Marmolada glacier and ascends through easy snow and rock terrain. This route typically starts from Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi or Fedaia Lake and includes glacier travel with crevasse risk.
- Elevation gain: ~1,300m
- Duration: 8–10 hours round trip
- Skills required: Good fitness, basic glacier travel, crampon and ice axe use
- Gear: Helmet, harness, crampons, rope, ice axe
Renato notes: "Post-2022, the glacier is more dynamic, and we often decide last minute whether the normal route is passable. Conditions vary year to year."
2. West Ridge (Via Ferrata Cresta Ovest)
This is currently the most common guided ascent to Punta Penia, especially when glacier conditions are unstable. Starting from Fedaia Lake, the route climbs through rocky paths, a glacier crossing, and then a long via ferrata to the summit ridge.
- Elevation gain: ~1,300m
- Duration: 8–10 hours round trip
- Skills required: Good fitness, sure-footedness, basic via ferrata and crampon use
- Gear: Helmet, harness, via ferrata set, crampons
"The West Ridge via ferrata is a safer option in warm seasons when the glacier is unstable. Still strenuous, but incredibly scenic," says Renato.
An alternative is a 1.5- or 2-day version, with overnight stays at Rifugio Contrin or Capanna Punta Penia. Capanna Punta Penia is a small hut right on the summit itself, offering a unique high-altitude bivouac experience. Booking in advance is essential.
3. South Face Rock Climbing
Marmolada's south face is one of the most revered big walls in Europe, offering classic alpine rock climbing with long, sustained routes.
- Classic routes: Don Quixote, Vinatzer-Messner, Fish Route (extremely difficult)
- Length: 600–900m
- Grades: From UIAA V up to VIII+
According to Renato, "The south face is only for experienced alpinists. Route-finding, endurance, and commitment are key. Weather windows must be perfectly timed."
A night in Capanna Punta Penia or the bivouac at the base is often needed.
4. Ski Ascent & Freeride Descent
In winter and spring, Marmolada transforms into a freeride paradise. Skiers ascend via skins or cable car and enjoy long descents over the glacier.
- Access: From Malga Ciapela via lift or ski touring
- Descent: 1,500+ vertical meters, glaciated terrain
- Best months: February to early April
- Guide’s tip: 40+ cm fresh snow makes for dreamy conditions, but avalanche risk must be carefully assessed
Technical Requirements and Equipment
Each route type requires distinct gear:
- Via Ferrata: Helmet, harness, ferrata set, sturdy boots, layers, water, snacks
- Rock Climbing: Full alpine rack, double ropes, helmets, experience in long multi-pitch trad climbing
- Ski Touring: Avalanche safety kit, crampons, skins, harness, rope (for glacier travel)
- Glacier Travel: Ice axe, crampons, rope, harness, crevasse rescue gear
Most of this gear can be rented locally. Renato’s team also provides equipment for guided clients.
Logistics and Where to Stay
Base towns include:
- Canazei & Campitello di Fassa: Close to the Fedaia pass and ideal for all Marmolada activities
- Malga Ciapela: Best for ski access
- Rifugio Contrin or Capanna Punta Penia: Good options for overnight ascents
"Staying at Passo Fedaia offers early access to the normal and ski routes," Renato advises.
Meeting Point and How to Get There
Most guided trips begin with a meeting in Canazei or Campitello di Fassa, where clients can review gear and logistics with their guide. From there, it's a short drive or bus ride to Passo Fedaia, the typical trailhead for both the normal and West Ridge routes.
- By car: Easily accessible from Bolzano or Trento; parking available at Fedaia Pass
- By public transport: Regional buses connect Canazei with Passo Fedaia and Malga Ciapela
- Nearest airports: Bolzano, Verona, and Venice (2–3 hours by car)
Why Go with a Guide
Hiring a certified IFMGA guide like Renato ensures proper risk management, expert route choice, and a safer, more enriching experience. Marmolada is not a mountain to underestimate — conditions change fast, and experience matters.
Whether you're tackling the south face or enjoying your first via ferrata above 3,000 meters, Marmolada promises unforgettable alpine adventure.
FAQs About Climbing Marmolada
Do I need to hire a guide to climb Marmolada?
Hiring a certified mountain guide is highly recommended, especially due to glacier hazards and route complexity. While technically experienced climbers can attempt the ascent independently, guides ensure safety and route optimization.
Which route is easier: the normal route or via ferrata?
Both routes are strenuous and require fitness, but the West Ridge via ferrata avoids the unstable glacier crossings of the normal route, making it more reliable in summer conditions.
Can beginners climb Marmolada?
With a guide, fit beginners who are comfortable with heights can complete the via ferrata route. Previous experience with mountain hiking and some via ferrata training are advantageous.
Is it possible to sleep on the summit?
Yes. Capanna Punta Penia is a small hut located right at the summit, available for overnight stays from mid-June to mid-September. Reservations are essential.
How dangerous is the glacier after the 2022 collapse?
While still climbable, the glacier is now considered more dynamic and unpredictable. Guided groups assess the conditions daily and sometimes avoid the glacier by using the West Ridge route instead.
When is the best time to climb Marmolada?
For via ferrata and rock routes: late June to September. For ski touring: March to early May.
About Renato Bernard
Renato Bernard is an IFMGA-certified mountain guide based in Campitello di Fassa, in the heart of the Dolomites. With over 30 years of guiding experience, he specializes in alpine climbing, ski touring, and via ferrata adventures across the Dolomites and the Alps. Known for his deep knowledge of the Marmolada massif, Renato leads trips with a personal and highly professional approach, supported by a team of equally seasoned guides. Learn more about Renato and his guided trips at Explore-Share.
