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Climbing Mts. Victoria and Lefroy from Abbot Pass

Jeff, an IFMGA certified guide, will take you on a 3-day trip for one of the most classic climbs in the Rockies: Mts. Victoria and Lefroy, from Abbot Pass. You can also ascend Mt. Huber if conditions allow.

Mountain RangeRockies
Duration3 days
Offer periodJun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Skill LevelIntermediate
Fitness LevelFit
Type of tripNot specified


If you are looking for some of the most classic alpine climbs in the Canadian Rockies, I have the perfect trip for you. It will be 3 days to climb Mounts Victoria (3464 m) and Lefroy (3423 m), two beautiful mountains.

During these days, we will be based in the Abbot Pass Mountain Hut, in Banff National Park. It’s the birth place of alpinism and guiding in Canada. On the first day, we will start from Lake O’Hara and make our way up to the historical hut. We will spend 2 nights there.

The Hut and the Pass were named after Phillip Abbott, who fell from Mount Lefroy in 1896. The hut was built at the pass to facilitate safer ascents of Mounts Lefroy and Victoria.

On the second day, we will be up very early to attempt Mt. Lefroy (3423 m). The peak lies on the eastern side of Abbot Pass.

Then, on the third day we will ascend the South East ridge of Mt. Victoria (3464 m). It lies on the western side of the pass, on the border between Banff and Yoho National Parks. Also, if conditions allow, we will have the possibility of ascending a third peak, Mt. Huber (3370 m), along our descent back to Lake O’Hara.

So, contact me if you want to join me on this great climbing trip! You can send me a request and we can start planning this adventure right away.

Also, you can take a look at the 2-day climbing trip to Mt. Athabasca North Face (3491 m) that I also guide.


More info

SLEEPING GEAR: pillow, light and small-sleeping bag (3 season,-9 deg c min). We will be carrying this gear up and down so keep it light. CLOTHING LIST. In the mountains it is important to layer your clothing. I suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allow for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions in the mountains. Cotton clothing of any kind is not recommended as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. We will have time to go through your clothing and gear prior to the climb. You will need to bring: wool/blend socks, clean socks for each day- Warm long pants to climb in. These should be wool/nylon blend, fleece pants or Sheoller material-Light shirt or T-shirt- Wool or fleece-Long sleeve shirt-fleece sweater (medium weight)-Heavyweight fleece or insulated/down jacket- Water proof outer jacket with hood (Gore-Tex)-Waterproof outer pants, preferably with side zips on legs.-Waterproof knee-length gaiters that will fit over large boots-Waterproof mountaineering gloves or wool / fleece mitts /gloves plus waterproof over mitts, two pairs-warm hat-sunhat with wide brim-neck tuve/bellaclava. EQUIPMENT LIST. You will need to bring: mountaineering boots, designed specifically for this use. Most hiking boots are not suitable not being firm enough, waterproof and not made to take crampons. Mountaineering boots are made from leather or plastic. Leather boots have either a semi-rigid or a rigid sole. Plastic boots have rigid soles. The most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort followed by performance. If buying, try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don’t buy them. There are many good brands. They include Asolo, Kayland, Koflach, la Sportiva and Scarpa.// Backpack: Large enough to carry spare clothing, lunch, water and climbing gear. 40-55liters//Ice Axe: for intermediate and advanced ascents an ice axe with a curved pick is best suited, 55cm-65cm.//Climbing harness//12 Point crampons, which must fit your boots //Climbing helmet // Sunglasees with good UV protection, ‘glacier glasses’ // Sun cream and Lip cream // Headlamp with fresh batteries. // Waterbottle (1L minimum) // Pocket knife //Blister kit (‘moleskin’, ‘Second Skin’)// First Aid Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin / Tylenol is enough as I will have a kit also).// Camera // Trekking pole or old ski pole // 3 locking caribiners, 2 non locking caribiners // 2x5m 6mm prussic cord.



About the guide

guide profile img

Alpine Air Adventures is an independent mountain guiding business run by Jeff Bullock. I am a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide, with my training and certification through the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, and the Canadian Avalanche Association.

We specialize in outdoor Banff adventures including: rock climbing, ice climbing, alpine climbing, backcountry skiing and snowboarding, avalanche courses and improvised rope rescue courses.

Based out of Banff, Alberta, Canada in the heart of the rugged Canadian Rocky Mountains, Alpine Air offers everything mountain. My main emphasize is to offer safe and unforgettable Banff adventures to my guests. With the allure of the mountains right at my doorstep I am always keen to take on any adventure and I am excited to have you along. Contact me to begin organizing your dream mountain ascent or descent.

What people are saying about Jeff Bullock

Prices per person

Group of 1

CAD 1186 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation

- Transportation from your hotel/airport (if in area) to the start of the trip and back

- Permit and entrance fees

- Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

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