Nestled in the heart of Argentina's North Patagonia region, Bariloche is a world-renowned destination for outdoor enthusiasts, especially for backcountry skiers. With its vast landscapes, challenging terrain, and remote beauty, it offers some of the best skiing experiences in South America. Whether you're an advanced skier seeking untouched powder or someone eager to explore Patagonia’s backcountry, Bariloche has something for everyone.
In this article, put together with the insights provided by local IFMGA and AAGM certified ski and mountain guides from Bariloche, we’ll cover everything you need to know about backcountry skiing in Bariloche, from the best time to visit, top destinations, gear recommendations, and expert insights from locals who have been skiing Bariloche’s slopes for years.
The Bariloche Ski Season: When to Visit
The Bariloche ski season usually runs from June to September, with conditions varying throughout these months. Here's a breakdown of the best times to visit for different destinations:
- June - Early July: Early in the season, you can find good skiing conditions, especially in the higher elevations. However, snow coverage may still be inconsistent in some backcountry areas. This is a quieter time to visit Bariloche, so if you want to avoid the crowds, this could be a good option.
- Mid-July to August: This is the peak of the ski season, and the snowpack is generally at its best. These months offer the most reliable snow conditions for all of Bariloche’s backcountry destinations. This is the most popular time to ski, so expect a bustling atmosphere at the ski resorts and in town. The second half of July and first days of August are the Argentine local school holidays, so most locals will go skiing during these weeks.
- September: Spring skiing begins in September, and while the lower-altitude resorts may start to lose snow, higher-altitude areas like Cerro Lopez and Cerro Piltriquitron can offer fantastic conditions for ski touring. Spring is ideal for ski touring at higher altitudes, where the snow tends to stay longer and offers more stable conditions for multi-day tours.
Where to Ski in Bariloche and Beyond
Bariloche offers a wide variety of backcountry skiing opportunities, from iconic destinations easily accessed from the ski resorts to more remote and rugged areas. Here’s an in-depth look at the best places to ski, along with access details:
1. Frey
Freed from crowds and tucked in the back side of Cerro Catedral area, Frey is a legendary destination for backcountry skiers. It's known for its challenging terrain, deep powder, and stunning views of the Frey Hut, a rustic mountain refuge that serves as a base for multi-day adventures. The runs in the Van Titter valley are mandatory for backcountry lovers.
- How to Get There: Frey is accessed via the Catedral Alta Patagonia Ski Resort. You can take a ski lift to the top of the resort and then follow a well-marked hiking trail to reach the Frey Hut. The trail can be completed in about 1.5-2 hours depending on conditions, making it a popular day trip for advanced skiers. You can also hike all the way up from the base of the ski resort, but the trail may be snow or ice covered, so you might need crampons to get safely to the hut.
- About the Frey Hut: The Frey Hut is a staple of the Bariloche backcountry experience. It provides shelter and a place to rest for those embarking on multi-day ski tours, making it a legendary stop for ski touring enthusiasts. The hut is well-stocked with food and water, but it's essential to book in advance, as it fills up quickly during the peak season, especially during weekends. Make sure to try Frey’s pizza, which is as legendary as the hut!
Frey hut, Bariloche's most famous backcountry skiing spot
2. Cerro Catedral
Cerro Catedral is one of South America's largest ski resorts, but it also offers incredible backcountry opportunities. Its proximity to the ski lifts means you can easily access high-altitude terrain with minimal effort.
- How to Get There: You can reach the backcountry terrain of Cerro Catedral either by taking the lifts to the top and skiing off-piste or starting directly from the resort’s base. Some of the more popular areas can be accessed from the top of the lifts.
- Expert Insight: According to AAGM ski and mountain guide Luciana Tessio, "Cerro Catedral offers a range of off-piste terrain, making it ideal for skiers who want to combine resort skiing with backcountry exploration." If you're looking for varied conditions, including tree skiing and wide-open powder fields, this is a perfect destination.
3. Cerro Lopez
If you're looking for steep lines and panoramic views of the surrounding lakes, Cerro Lopez offers some of the most challenging terrain in the region. Its high elevation and exposure make it suitable for advanced skiers. The ‘Filo de las Cabras’ is a must for backcountry skiers in Bariloche.
- How to Get There: Cerro Lopez is about a 30-minute drive from Bariloche, located just to the west of the town. You can access the mountain by hiking or skinning from the road, and the summit offers some of the region’s most technical descents.
- Expert Insight: IFMGA Mountain Guide Luciano Fiorenza recommends Cerro Lopez for experienced skiers, especially if you're looking for long, challenging lines. “The terrain here is unforgiving, but the rewards are unmatched. The views and the quality of the skiing make it a must-do for advanced backcountry skiers”.
4. Baguales
Baguales is a hidden gem, perfect for those who want to escape the crowds and find untouched powder. The area offers a mix of alpine bowls and more technical ridges, and it’s known for its excellent snow conditions that last longer than in the more popular areas near Bariloche.
- How to Get There: Located about 1 to 2 hours south of Bariloche (depending on road conditions), Baguales is easily accessible by car. On good days, the trip takes around 1 hour, but if the roads are challenging, it may take longer. It's recommended to hire a local guide to navigate the area, as it's less marked and requires some local knowledge to access the best runs.
- Expert Insight: Local IFMGA guide Craig Ross notes that Baguales is “ideal for those seeking solitude and fresh tracks. It offers everything from open bowls to technical ridges, and the powder here lasts much longer than the more crowded areas closer to Bariloche”.
5. El Bolsón Area: Cerro Piltriquitron & Cerro Perito Moreno
El Bolsón, just a 2-hour drive from Bariloche, is known for its relaxed atmosphere and proximity to incredible backcountry terrain. Cerro Piltriquitron and Cerro Perito Moreno are two top spots in the area.
- How to Get There: Both mountains are accessible from El Bolsón by car. From the town, you can drive to the trailheads, then ski or hike up to access the backcountry areas.
- Cerro Piltriquitron: This mountain is ideal for those looking for less technical terrain and stunning views. It offers great options for beginners and intermediate skiers.
- Cerro Perito Moreno: This area provides more challenging backcountry terrain above the ski resort, taking advantage of the lifts to access the higher section of the mountain with less effort. The wide bowls and steep terrain here attract more advanced skiers looking for a real challenge.
Bonus Track: Mount Tronador Ski Ascent
For those seeking an extra challenge and the opportunity to explore Patagonia’s towering peaks, the Mount Tronador Ski Ascent is an unforgettable adventure. Mount Tronador, standing at 3,478 meters, is the highest peak in the Nahuel Huapi National Park and offers a unique ski touring experience.
- How to Get There: The ascent begins from the Pampa Linda area, located about 1.5-2 hours from Bariloche by car. From there, you’ll ski towards the Tronador base, navigating glaciers and steep slopes, typically requiring at least 2 days to complete. Given the complexity and technical nature of the terrain, this route is best suited for experienced skiers.
- The Ski Ascent: This guided two-day ascent includes overnight stays at Otto Mailing mountain refuge, where you can rest and prepare for the climb. The first day involves a skinning ascent to the base of the mountain, followed by a challenging summit attempt on day two. The summit offers panoramic views of the surrounding glaciers and peaks, making the effort well worth it.
- Expert Insight: As described by Luciano Fiorenza, “The Mount Tronador ascent is a true test of both skill and endurance. It’s not for the faint of heart, but for experienced ski mountaineers, it’s one of the most rewarding challenges in the region.” This adventure combines technical climbing, glacier travel, and skiing, offering an unmatched experience for those wanting to push their limits.
Mount Tronador Ski Descent
Gear and Equipment for Backcountry Skiing
When heading into the backcountry, the right gear is essential for both safety and enjoyment. Here’s a quick list of the must-have equipment:
- Skis with touring bindings or a splitboard for snowboarders
- Avalanche safety gear: beacon, probe, and shovel
- Touring boots and skins for uphill ascents
- Helmet, goggles, and gloves suitable for cold and windy conditions
If you need to rent gear in Bariloche, there are several popular rental shops offering high-quality backcountry equipment:
- La Cumbre: Known for its top-notch touring skis and avalanche safety gear.
- Andino Ski Rental: Offers a range of backcountry ski gear, from skis and boots to beacons and probes.
- Catedral Alta Patagonia: The resort itself provides equipment rentals for backcountry skiing.
Safety and Preparation for Backcountry Skiing
Backcountry skiing in Bariloche can be challenging, and safety is a top priority. Here are some key safety considerations:
- Avalanche Risk: Always check weather forecasts and avalanche reports and consult with your guide before heading into remote areas like Frey or Cerro Lopez. The importance of understanding avalanche conditions before venturing off-piste must never be underestimated.
- Weather Conditions: Weather in Patagonia can change rapidly, so always be prepared for all types of conditions. Luciana Tessio stresses that “the weather in Bariloche can be unpredictable, especially in spring and autumn, so always carry gear to deal with rain or snow.”
- Guide Expertise: Traveling with an expert guide is crucial in the backcountry. They know the terrain, can help assess avalanche risks, and adjust the itinerary if necessary to ensure safety.
Frey famous granite spires and steep couloirs
Getting to Bariloche: International Travel Tips
For international travelers, San Carlos de Bariloche (BRC) is the gateway to North Patagonia and its spectacular backcountry skiing destinations. Most visitors arrive via Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile, with several options depending on your schedule, budget, and travel preferences.
Flying to Bariloche from Buenos Aires
- Direct Flights: The most common route is a direct flight from Buenos Aires’ Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP) or Ezeiza Airport (EZE) to Bariloche Airport (BRC). The flight typically takes around 2 hours, making it the fastest and most convenient option.
- Airlines: Aerolíneas Argentinas and JetSmart operate multiple daily flights during the ski season, especially between July and August.
- Tips: Booking early is recommended during peak ski season, as flights fill up quickly. Aerolíneas Argentinas also offers luggage options for ski gear, but check weight limits in advance.
Flying to Bariloche from Santiago de Chile
- Direct Flights: There are direct flights from Santiago de Chile to Bariloche Airport (BRC), operated by Sky Airline. The flight duration is around 2 hours, making it a quick and convenient option for travelers coming from Chile.
- Connecting Flights via Buenos Aires: Alternatively, travelers can fly from Santiago to Buenos Aires and then take a domestic flight to Bariloche. The total travel time via Buenos Aires is roughly 5-6 hours, including layovers.
- Tips: Direct flights are typically available during the peak ski season (July-August), so booking early is essential. If you're carrying ski gear, check with the airline about their ski equipment policies to avoid surprises at the airport.
Airport Transfers to Town
- From BRC Airport: Once you land at Bariloche, the town center is about 15-20 minutes by car. Most guides offer pick-up services directly from the airport, which is especially convenient if you’re heading straight to ski areas like Cerro Catedral or Cerro Lopez.
- Alternative Options: Taxis, private transfers, and car rentals are widely available. For independent travelers planning multi-day backcountry tours, renting a car provides flexibility to access remote destinations such as Baguales or El Bolsón .
Practical Tips
- Customs and Gear: If you’re bringing ski or avalanche gear, make sure to declare it when entering Argentina to avoid delays. Most airlines accommodate ski equipment, but confirming in advance is essential.
- Travel Insurance: Given the adventurous nature of backcountry skiing, international travelers should ensure their insurance covers ski touring and off-piste activities.
Where to Stay in Bariloche and How to Get Around
Bariloche offers a wide range of accommodation options, catering to different preferences and budgets. Whether you're seeking luxury, comfort, or a more rustic experience, you'll find plenty of choices. Here are some options:
- Llao Llao Hotel & Resort: A luxurious 5-star hotel offering breathtaking views of Lake Nahuel Huapi and the surrounding mountains. With its world-class amenities, this is a perfect option for those looking to relax after a full day of skiing.
- Hostería La Casita: A charming, budget-friendly option nestled in the hills with an intimate, cozy atmosphere. It offers easy access to the ski resorts and is a great place for skiers looking for a peaceful retreat.
- Hotel Tres Reyes: Located in the heart of Bariloche, this hotel offers comfortable rooms with beautiful views of the lake. Its central location makes it convenient for exploring the town and for accessing nearby ski resorts.
- Cabañas La Montaña: For a more rustic experience, Cabañas La Montaña offers cozy log cabins set in a scenic environment. Ideal for those who prefer more private accommodations and are looking for a homey atmosphere.
- Aldea Andina: A charming boutique hotel located just a short drive from the city center. It’s known for its excellent service, beautiful mountain views, and proximity to the ski resorts.
- Pailahue Lodge: Located just outside of town, Pailahue offers comfortable lodging and easy access to the slopes. It’s a popular choice for families and groups, offering spacious rooms and a more relaxed atmosphere.
- Charming Patagonia Hostel: Perfect for solo travelers or those on a budget, this hostel offers a friendly atmosphere and a great location in Bariloche. It’s ideal for skiers looking to meet other adventurers and enjoy a more social stay.
Bariloche offers great flexibility in terms of accommodation, whether you're looking for luxury or a more down-to-earth, authentic experience. Depending on where you plan to ski and how much time you want to spend in the town itself, these options provide a range of atmospheres to suit your needs.
Final Thoughts
Whether you're a seasoned skier or new to backcountry skiing, Bariloche offers some of the best terrain in Patagonia. From the well-known slopes of Cerro Catedral and Frey to the more remote options of Baguales and Cerro Piltriquitron, there's something for everyone. The region’s diverse offerings, combined with expert guidance and the right gear, will ensure that your backcountry skiing adventure in Bariloche is one to remember.
If you're looking to experience the wild beauty of Patagonia on skis, this is the place to be. And remember, whether you’re skiing the iconic slopes of Frey or exploring the hidden gems in El Bolsón, booking a certified guide will help ensure a safe, unforgettable experience. So, gear up, plan your trip, and enjoy the charm of skiing in Bariloche.
Skinning up in Frey, with Mount Tronador in the back
Ready to experience the best of backcountry skiing in Bariloche? Book your guided adventure today and explore unforgettable slopes with expert local guides—secure your spot now!
