Ecuador is a world-renowned destination among climbing and mountaineering fans due to its volcanoes. Above all, the majestic Chimborazo stands out because of its altitude and the technical complexity of its ascent. Arrange your trip to this volcano in the best possible way with these tips for a successful climb.
A few facts about Chimborazo
Ecuador’s Tallest Volcano
Located at the Western Andes Range, Chimborazo is the highest volcano in Ecuador, with a maximum height of 20,561 feet and a prominence of 13,526 feet from its base.
Chimborazo: The Furthest Point from Earth’s Center
Chimborazo might not be the tallest mountain in the world, but its summit holds a unique record—it's actually the furthest point from the center of the Earth. Thanks to the Earth’s elliptical shape and Chimborazo’s spot near the Equator, its peak sits about 1.25 miles farther from the planet’s core than Everest’s.
Base of Chimborazo
What is the best time to climb Chimborazo?
Chimborazo can be climbed all-year round, although the best period runs from November to February and from May to July. During these months, climbers benefit from clearer skies, more stable weather, and reduced risks associated with snowpack and rockfall.
The climb involves sustained climbing over varying terrain, with fitful weather and snowpack conditions adding to the challenge. Guides carefully plan the initial routes based on current conditions, and the optimal months for climbing offer clearer skies and more stable conditions
It's not advisable to climb between March and April because there's a huge amount of rain and snow. August can be very windy, while September and October can also offer decent conditions, just be prepared for unpredictable weather.
The best option is to start the ascent before midnight, in order to be back no later than 10 a.m., as sunlight adds the risk of rock fall and the cloudy afternoon weather reduces the visibility of the trail.
Summit Timing for Safety and Views
For the best summit experience, climbers typically begin their ascent from the high camp before midnight. This allows you to reach the summit by sunrise, offering truly mesmerizing views of the surrounding Andes as the first light paints the snowfields in shades of gold and pink.
At sunrise, the landscape transforms into a golden panorama, with front row views of mountain ridges and volcanic craters below. From the summit, you can gaze upon Cayambe to the north and the peaks of Iliniza and Tungurahua.
Plus, early ascents help avoid the fitful weather that often rolls in by afternoon, reducing visibility and increasing the risk of rockfall as the sun warms the slopes.
Why is it difficult to ascend Chimborazo?
The well-known health risks of high-altitude ascents are, for starters, a setback. To reduce the risk of altitude sickness, proper acclimatization is key. Many climbers start with lower peaks in Ecuador, gradually gaining altitude before tackling Chimborazo.
Physical challenges during the ascent include dealing with the thin air, which decreases oxygen levels, making each step feel more exhausting. The high-altitude fatigue can be overwhelming, especially if acclimatization has not been properly managed. To reduce the risk of altitude sickness, it is essential to follow a slow, steady pace and stay well-hydrated throughout the climb.
The descent is equally challenging as climbers must remain cautious of slippery snowfields and rocky sections that can become unstable as the sun warms them. The descent takes approximately 4-5 hours depending on the route and weather conditions, requiring focus and careful navigation to avoid injury.
Routes, Challenges, and Summit Experience
Chimborazo offers several climbing routes, each with its own set of challenges and rewards. These routes vary in difficulty, technical skill required, and terrain, but all offer an extraordinary opportunity to reach the summit of Ecuador’s highest volcano.
The Normal Route (Via Whymper)
The most commonly used route is the Normal Route, also known as the Whymper Route, beginning at High Camp, located at around 5,000 meters, and follows a combination of rocky fields and snowfields. The climb is primarily a non-technical ascent, but it requires sustained climbing in the thin air and can become increasingly challenging as you approach the summit. The terrain includes steep sections of rock and ice, where good technique and balance are essential.
The Carrel Route
For more experienced climbers, the Carrel Route offers a slightly more technical challenge, requiring ice axes and crampons for certain sections. This route starts from the Carrel Hut, which is lower than the High Camp, and involves navigating rocky ridges and steep snowfields. While still accessible to those with proper training, this route provides a more isolated and rugged experience.
The Direct Route (Via the North Face)
For expert climbers, the Direct Route offers a more technical ascent, starting from Base Camp and cutting directly up the North Face of Chimborazo. This route involves both rock climbing and ice climbing. Due to the technical nature, it is recommended for climbers with prior experience in alpine environments and with solid knowledge of crevasse rescue and mountain safety.
Acclimatization and Preparation
Some guides recommend longer programs that include multiple summits, allowing your body to adjust before going to Chimborazo. Check out this 10-day program climbing Cayambe & Chimborazo, or this 11-day expedition that takes you to 5 Ecuadorian summits.
These programs help you build endurance for the sustained climbing and demanding conditions you’ll face near Chimborazo’s high camp and across its rocky fields and snowfields.
Whymper summit, Chimborazo
If you have a solid mountaineering experience, another option is to do some acclimatization on your own and then hire the guide for a straightforward 2-day ascent to Chimborazo.
Why hire a mountain guide?
The path to Chimborazo’s summit has plenty of glaciers, some of them with dangerous crevasses. Besides, the tough weather in Ecuador and the avalanches make the ascent even more difficult.
You should always make sure to hire a professional and certified mountain guide. The best options are going with an IFMGA/UIAGM guide (international certification) or with an ASEGUIM guide (Ecuador's national certification, recognized by the IFMGA).
As a consequence of its technical difficulty, historically, there have been fatal accidents in the volcano, most of them due to avoidable mistakes. Because of that, since November 2012 the Ecuadorian government has disallowed climbing Chimborazo without a certified mountain guide.
Chimborazo's shadow
How to get to Chimborazo
The ideal starting point for a trip to Chimborazo is Riobamba, an Andean city located on the Avenue of Volcanoes, 120 miles (200 km) away from the Ecuadorian capital, Quito.
You can take a bus there from the Quitumbe bus station, a bit south of Quito. Once there, you can easily get to the Chimborazo Reserve. Take one of the buses heading to Guaranda, and ask the driver to leave you at the Reserve’s entrance. There’s also the option to take a cab from Riobamba for 35 bucks.
Either way, you can make the proper arrangements for the pick-up with the guides. Many of them will include transportation to Chimborazo in their programs.
Where to stay before and during the ascent?
The guides at Explore-Share recommend several accommodation options for the night before your Chimborazo ascent:
Estrella del Chimborazo Lodge (this is the only place inside the Chimborazo Reserve)
Hotel Hacienda Abraspungo (Riobamba)
Hostería La Andaluza (Riobamba)
Zeus Hotel (Riobamba)
Mansión Santa Isabella (Riobamba)
The most popular mountain hut to stay during your ascent to Chimborazo is Whymper. Located at 16,400 feet (5,000 m) it is well-equipped with comfortable bunk-beds, bathrooms, basic food supplies and a fireplace.
Refuge Carrell, at 15,750 feet (4,800 m), is also well-prepared to host climbers. Because of its location, to start the ascent from there, you will need to leave a bit earlier.
There are two campsites closer to Chimborazo: El Castillo and Moraine. The former can get pummeled by snow fall in the case of strong wind or avalanche.
Cultural and Natural Attractions Around Chimborazo
The Chimborazo region is not only renowned for its towering volcanic peak but also for its rich cultural heritage and local attractions that make it an intriguing destination beyond just climbing. The nearby city of Riobamba serves as the main gateway to Chimborazo and offers a wealth of historical, cultural, and natural sites that enhance the climbing experience.
Are you ready for a mountain adventure in this iconic Ecuadorian volcano? At Explore-Share we have the best selection of certified mountain guides to climb Chimborazo, check them out and start planning your trip!