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Ascent on mt. Donguz-Orun, Elbrus region

Donguz Orun peak (4454 m.), along with mt. Elbrus is a hallmark of the Elbrus region and the Caucasus. It is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The north face breaks off vertically into the valley of Baksan towards Kabardino Balkaria. North face routes are very dangerous. There are also routes

Duration10 days
Offer periodJul, Aug
Type of tripNot specified

Description

Donguz Orun peak (4454 m.), along with mt. Elbrus is a hallmark of the Elbrus region and the Caucasus. It is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The north face breaks off vertically into the valley of Baksan towards Kabardino Balkaria. North face routes are very dangerous. There are also routes to the summit of Donguz from the south Svanetian side.
The program takes 10/11 days from Tbilisi to TB. Climbing complexity is similar to climbing Elbrus. Gorges and glaciers in contrast to the Baksan are more wild, there’re no crowds here. It is a complete adventure. On top there are amazing views of the Elbrus and other Caucasus peaks. Tour can be extended for Georgia sightseeing.

Extra details

Days of program

1 day meeting in Tbilisi airport and drive to Svaneti / Mazeri village /. Overnight at the hotel.
2. day short trip to the capital of Svaneti – Mestia. Getting permits in border zone.
3. Acclimatization day. Night in Hotel.
4. Acclimatization day.
5. Trek to begining Kvish glacier with horses.
6. day ascent to ABC on the moraine of the Kvish glacier.
7. day climbing, the usual time 7/8 hours.
8. Reserve day.
9. descent from the glacier, a meeting with the drover and horses, the descent into the maser. Overnight at the hotel.
10. Departure to Tbilisi.
The possibility of continuing the program, cultural trip to Georgia.

Spots of interest

Mazeri, Mestia, Trail to Kvish glacier

Place of start trekking to Kvish glacier

Dolra river

Crossing Dolra river

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About the guide

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Honored Master of Sports, International Master of Sports in mountaineering, nine-time champion of Russia in mountaineering, multiple nominee and winner of the international competitions: «Piolet d'Or» in mountaineering. 52 years. Mountain guide, photographer.

Initiator and project leader: "Open Caucasus", "Mountains as a challenge", "Alposphere."
Project participant: "Russian way - big walls", "Eight-thsousands Russian peaks ", "Everest, center of the North face."
More than 30 years in climbing, organized multiple expeditions to Nepal, Tibet and Peru; participated in mountain festivals and competitions organization, judge of international mountaineering competitions , the only one «Piolet d'Or» jury president from Russia.

First climber on top of the last unclimbed eight-thousand meter peak: Lhotse Middle * 8414 m. * Recepient of many sports and state awards.
AAJ included two Yury’s extreme mountain climbs in the hundred of the best climbs of the 20th century list.

He has an experience of guiding clients in the mountains of Caucasus, Chamonix, Bernese Alps, Himalayas, Eastern Himalayas (China), Cordillera Blanca (Peru), Ecuador, Venezuela.


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