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Ascent on mt. Donguz-Orun, Elbrus region

Ascent on mt. Donguz-Orun, Elbrus region
Ascent on mt. Donguz-Orun, Elbrus region
Ascent on mt. Donguz-Orun, Elbrus region
Ascent on mt. Donguz-Orun, Elbrus region

Donguz Orun peak (4454 m.), along with mt. Elbrus is a hallmark of the Elbrus region and the Caucasus. It is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The north face breaks off vertically into the valley of Baksan towards Kabardino Balkaria. North face routes are very dangerous. There are also routes

Not specified

1 Day

Jul, Aug


Description

Donguz Orun peak (4454 m.), along with mt. Elbrus is a hallmark of the Elbrus region and the Caucasus. It is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The north face breaks off vertically into the valley of Baksan towards Kabardino Balkaria. North face routes are very dangerous. There are also routes to the summit of Donguz from the south Svanetian side.
The program takes 10/11 days from Tbilisi to TB. Climbing complexity is similar to climbing Elbrus. Gorges and glaciers in contrast to the Baksan are more wild, there’re no crowds here. It is a complete adventure. On top there are amazing views of the Elbrus and other Caucasus peaks. Tour can be extended for Georgia sightseeing.

Extra details
Days of program

1 day meeting in Tbilisi airport and drive to Svaneti / Mazeri village /. Overnight at the hotel.
2. day short trip to the capital of Svaneti – Mestia. Getting permits in border zone.
3. Acclimatization day. Night in Hotel.
4. Acclimatization day.
5. Trek to begining Kvish glacier with horses.
6. day ascent to ABC on the moraine of the Kvish glacier.
7. day climbing, the usual time 7/8 hours.
8. Reserve day.
9. descent from the glacier, a meeting with the drover and horses, the descent into the maser. Overnight at the hotel.
10. Departure to Tbilisi.
The possibility of continuing the program, cultural trip to Georgia.

Spots of interest
Mazeri, Mestia, Trail to Kvish glacier

Place of start trekking to Kvish glacier

Dolra river

Crossing Dolra river


About the guide

Guide profile image

Yury

Mountain Leader

Honored Master of Sports, International Master of Sports in mountaineering, nine-time champion of Russia in mountaineering, multiple nominee and winner of the international competitions: «Piolet d'Or» in mountaineering. 52 years. Mountain guide, photographer.

Initiator and project leader: "Open Caucasus", "Mountains as a challenge", "Alposphere."
Project participant: "Russian way - big walls", "Eight-thsousands Russian peaks ", "Everest, center of the North face."
More than 30 years in climbing, organized multiple expeditions to Nepal, Tibet and Peru; participated in mountain festivals and competitions organization, judge of international mountaineering competitions , the only one «Piolet d'Or» jury president from Russia.

First climber on top of the last unclimbed eight-thousand meter peak: Lhotse Middle * 8414 m. * Recepient of many sports and state awards.
AAJ included two Yury’s extreme mountain climbs in the hundred of the best climbs of the 20th century list.

He has an experience of guiding clients in the mountains of Caucasus, Chamonix, Bernese Alps, Himalayas, Eastern Himalayas (China), Cordillera Blanca (Peru), Ecuador, Venezuela.


What people are saying about Explore-Share

Kumari

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I’m extremely happy with the ease with which I could book via your site reliable and experienced guide. Thank you so very much, and I’ve started to recommend your site to my friends. Dimitris is not only an awesome guide, but a wonderful person who was always looking out to give me the best experience I can have when he found out how much I love climbing! He is the Best!

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I am very pleased with Explore-Share! This was my first international climb, and the communication and response time were great. Herbie is a very skilled guide and very efficient. The entire booking process & payment was smooth. I will definitely use Explore-Share again. Thank you.

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I was looking for a local guide for a hike I was planning and came across Explore-Share. They seemed to have good reviews and so decided to give them a try. The experience was very positive and completely happy with their service. I will be using them again for next trip.

Colin

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Easy to set up and find the perfect trip. Informative site that is easy to use. Guides are all great to work with and communicate all arrangements needed. As simple as can be!

Lesley

4.00

Thank you explore-share for a wonderful via feratta experience. We have been wanting to learn for a long time but don't have the facilities in Scotland. The guide Mitja was extremely helpful and knowledgeable, answering all my many questions and providing advice. On the day head to take another group but he quickly arranged another guide Borut, who was brilliant. We had a fantastic morning learning via ferrata at Hvadnik in the gorge. It gave us the confidence to later hire our own equipment and go out in Mojstrana. Altogether a five star + experience. Thank you.

 

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