Located in Georgia’s Svaneti region, just south of the Russian border, Mount Ushba rises to 4.720 meters above sea level.
While it is only the tenth highest peak in Georgia and thirteenth in the Caucasus Range, Ushba is widely considered the most challenging one to ascend.
The peak is affectionately known as the Matterhorn of the Caucuses due to its spire-shaped double summit. This feature is also what makes climbing Ushba so difficult.
The mountain has two summits, a south and north summit. The south one is slightly shorter than the northern one, reaching 4.690 meters of elevation. However, the northern summit makes for a slightly easier climb, but does require crossing over the Russian border.
Regardless of which peak you choose, expect to spend at least 12 days, including the approach and trip from Tbilisi. Some climbers spend a bit longer in order to get up and down both peaks.
Most guides recommend this trip for advanced mountaineers with high levels of physical fitness due to the high level of technical competence and large amounts of endurance required.
During the summer, average daily temperatures at the base of Mt Ushba range from 5 ºC to 12ºC. These drop to below freezing the higher up in elevation that you go. Summer is also one of the drier times of year, with an average of about 100 millimeters of rainfall per month.
Any trip to Ushba begins with a flight into the Tbilisi International Airport (TBS). Most guides will opt to meet you in the Georgian capital and arrange transport to the start of the trip.
Georgian lari (GEL)
July to September
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