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Mount Ushba climb via the classic route (north peak), Georgia

Join certified guide Alexandr on a unique mountaineering adventure in Georgia and climb to the top of the Mount Ushba north peak via the classic route. Enjoy stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains as you put your mountaineering skills to test!

Mountain RangeCaucasus
Duration12 days
Offer periodJun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Skill LevelIntermediate
Fitness LevelFit
Type of tripGroup

Highlights

  • Climbing Ushba is a worthy goal that will train your technical skills.

  • Visit the house-museum of Mikhail Khergiani, who trained on Ushba.

  • Discover the unique Georgian people and the stunning Caucasus landscapes.

Description

Would you like to climb to the top of the stunning Mount Ushba in the Caucasus Mountains? Then join me on this 12-day program and reach the summit of its north peak via the classic route on an unforgettable adventure!

Mount Ushba is one of the most famous and difficult mountains to climb in the Caucasus range. It has two peaks, north and south, of which the south is the highest. On this 12-day program, we will climb the Ushba north peak, which boasts an altitude of 4,690 m (15,387 ft). We will head up via the classic route which is the easiest. However, it is still hard and will require prior ice climbing experience.

The classic route passes over Ushba Glacier, which is the first tricky part to the summit. It should be given special attention and you will need belaying and glacier trekking techniques to cross it. Further on, we will get to the plateau at an altitude of 4000 meters. The summit attack involves climbing a steep ice slope with a 60-degree inclination. Finally, a long snowy ridge will take us to the top.

Please keep in mind that you will need prior experience to climb to the top of Mount Ushba. Furthermore, you will need a good fitness level too. Of course, I will be there to help and guide you! You can find a detailed itinerary below.

So, are you ready to climb to the top of Mount Ushba? Then contact me now and let’s start planning this 12-day ascent to the north peak together!

Or, if you prefer, you can join me to the top of the trickier south peak of Ushba!

Details

Accommodation

on the route accommodation in tents, at the beginning and after the program accommodation in the guesthouse.

Meeting point

Tbilisi Airport


Photos


Itinerary

Day 1: Tbilisi

Meeting in Tbilisi (Georgia). Night at the hotel.

Day 2: Mestia

Vehicle ride to Mestia. The town is placed at 1500 meters altitude. Night at the guest house.

Day 3: Acclimatization hike

Hike at Mestia. Equipment check. Starting with acclimatization. Walk to the observation point (2200m) or higher to Koruldi Lakes (2700m). At fair weather, we would see Ushba, Tetnuld, and other Caucasus summits.

Day 4: Mazeri Village-Camp 1

Transfer to Mazeri village (community Becho). Ascending to the Camp 1, altitude 2500 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 5: Camp 2

Ascending to an intermediate Camp 2 at the middle of Ushba Glacier. Altitude 3300 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 6: Ushba Plateau

Ascending to the Ushba Plateau (4000m). Assault Camp.

Day 7: Rest day

Day 8: Northern Ushba summit

Ascending to the Northern Ushba Summit. Shooting photos, tweeting, observing of surrounding mountains. Return to the assault camp.

Day 9: Extra day for bad weather

Day 10: Mestia

Descending to Mestia. Night in guest house.

Day 11: Tbilisi

Transfer to Tbilisi. Celebration.

Day 12: Transfer to Airport.


Equipment you will need to bring

Helmet

Sunglasses

Crampons

Ice Axe

Harness

Belay device

Backpack

Water bottle


About the guide

guide profile img

Mountain guide. Aspirant KMGA GUIDE SCHOOL KMGA (IFGMA) / Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association.

I have been climbing mountains since 2010. It has become my life and profession. I have experience in technical ascent and ascent to peaks above 7000 m, including in winter, as well as experience in climbing up to 7c level of free climbing. I am a Mountain Guide and an aspirant member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association KMGA.

I am glad that I can help others to climb interesting, beautiful peaks and share experiences. The main priority is the safety and effectiveness of climbing.

My favourite trips:
Mountainous regions: Pamir, Tien Shan, Caucasus, Himalayas
Countries: Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Georgia, Turkey, Nepal
Climbing the technical and high peaks of 7000+:
7000+: Khan Tengri, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Communism Peak
Technical ascents to the peaks in the mountains of Ala Archa (Northern Tien Shan), as well as Ushba, Kazbek, Tetnuld in the Caucasus Mountains!
I organize climbing training programs on Turkish Rocks. Areas Olympos, Cirali, Geykbairi.


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Prices per person

Group of 1

USD 5200 each

Group of 2

USD 2700 each

Group of 3

USD 2700 each

Group of 4

USD 2700 each

Group of 5

USD 2700 each

Group of 6

USD 2700 each

Group of 7

USD 2700 each

Group of 8

USD 2700 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation

- Transportation from your hotel/airport (if in area) to the start of the trip and back

- Transport during the trip

Price details

Service includes:

Transfers from Tbilisi to Mestia and backward.

Transfers from Mestia to Mazeri (Becho) and backward.

Accommodation in guest house in Mestia for 3 days.

Food on the active part of the route.

Stoves, Fuel, Pot for cooking.

Rent of a tent.

Crew equipment: Ropes, carabiners, ice axes.

Service not includes:

Personal equipment: crampons, ice axes, carabiners, harness, helmet, backpack.

Personal camp and kitchen equipment: sleeping bag, dinnerware, etc.

Flight tickets to and from Georgia.

Feeding in cafe and restaurants.

Accommodation in Tbilisi.

Any other expenses not pointed in the description.


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