Mountain guide. Aspirant KMGA GUIDE SCHOOL KMGA (IFGMA) / Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association.

I have been climbing mountains since 2010. It has become my life and profession. I have experience in technical ascent and ascent to peaks above 7000 m, including in winter, as well as experience in climbing up to 7c level of free climbing. I am a Mountain Guide and an aspirant member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association KMGA.

I am glad that I can help others to climb interesting, beautiful peaks and share experiences. The main priority is the safety and effectiveness of climbing.

My favourite trips:  
Mountainous regions: Pamir, Tien Shan, Caucasus, Himalayas  
Countries: Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Georgia, Turkey, Nepal  
Climbing the technical and high peaks of 7000+:  
7000+: Khan Tengri, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Communism Peak  
Technical ascents to the peaks in the mountains of Ala Archa (Northern Tien Shan), as well as Ushba, Kazbek, Tetnuld in the Caucasus Mountains!  
I organize climbing training programs on Turkish Rocks. Areas Olympos, Cirali, Geykbairi.

Georgia

Kyrgyzstan

Mountain guide. Aspirant KMGA GUIDE SCHOOL KMGA (IFGMA) / Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association. I have been climbing mountains since 2010. It has become my life and profession. I have experience in technical ascent and ascent.

Alexandr Moroz, KMGA . 3 trips offered

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Argentina

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AS Adventure

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Canon

We Mountain

Hakkaido

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Free ride world tour

Top 5 volcanoes to climb in Ecuador

Nepal Guide: Best Himalayas Treks and Climbs

Crater Ski Runs on a Mount Yotei Dream Come True

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Paris Match

Mon argent

Yamakei

Yama to keikoku

Le Matin

L'avenir

Metro

Ski Canada

Elle

Wondervogel

Trends

Gael

Fall Line

Touring

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### Would you like to climb to the top of the stunning Mount Ushba in the Caucasus Mountains? Then join me on this 12-day program and reach the summit of its north peak via the classic route on an unforgettable adventure!

Mount Ushba is one of the most famous and difficult mountains to climb in the Caucasus range. It has two peaks, north and south, of which the south is the highest. On this 12-day program, we will climb the Ushba north peak, which boasts an altitude of 4,690 m (15,387 ft). We will head up via the classic route which is the easiest. However, it is still hard and will require prior ice climbing experience.

The classic route passes over Ushba Glacier, which is the first tricky part to the summit. It should be given special attention and you will need belaying and glacier trekking techniques to cross it. Further on, we will get to the plateau at an altitude of 4000 meters. The summit attack involves climbing a steep ice slope with a 60-degree inclination. Finally, a long snowy ridge will take us to the top.

Please keep in mind that you will need prior experience to climb to the top of Mount Ushba. Furthermore, you will need a good fitness level too. Of course, I will be there to help and guide you! You can find a detailed itinerary below.

So, are you ready to climb to the top of Mount Ushba? Then contact me now and let’s start planning this 12-day ascent to the north peak together!

Or, if you prefer, you can join me to the top of the trickier south peak of Ushba!

Meeting in Tbilisi (Georgia). Night at the hotel.

Tbilisi

Vehicle ride to Mestia. The town is placed at 1500 meters altitude. Night at the guest house.

Mestia

Hike at Mestia. Equipment check. Starting with acclimatization. Walk to the observation point (2200m) or higher to Koruldi Lakes (2700m). At fair weather, we would see Ushba, Tetnuld, and other Caucasus summits.

Acclimatization hike

Transfer to Mazeri village (community Becho). Ascending to the Camp 1, altitude 2500 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Mazeri Village-Camp 1

Ascending to an intermediate Camp 2 at the middle of Ushba Glacier. Altitude 3300 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Camp 2

Ascending to the Ushba Plateau (4000m). Assault Camp.

Ushba Plateau

 Rest day

Ascending to the Northern Ushba Summit. Shooting photos, tweeting, observing of surrounding mountains. Return to the assault camp.

Northern Ushba summit

Extra day for bad weather

Descending to Mestia. Night in guest house.

Transfer to Airport.

Join certified guide Alexandr on a unique mountaineering adventure in Georgia and climb to the top of the Mount Ushba north peak via the classic route. Enjoy stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains as you put your mountaineering skills to test!

Mount Ushba climb via the classic route (north peak), Georgia. 12-day trip. KMGA guide

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AB_4fiXzgcRCw8k3SWioDXBLIU-JnOFG

Mount Ushba climb via the classic route (north peak), Georgia

### Would you like to discover one of the most amazing mountains in the Caucasus range? Then join me on this full 15-day 2-peak climb of the stunning Mount Ushba.

Mount Ushba is located in the Caucasus Mountains, in Georgia. It has two peaks, north, and south. At 4690 meters, north Ushba is the easiest to climb of the two, whilst the south peak, at 4710 meters is not only the highest but also the most technically challenging. On this program, we will start with the south peak via the Gabriel Khergiani route, and then head up the classic route to the summit of the north peak. You will need rock climbing, ice climbing, and glacier trekking skills to climb the two stunning peaks of Mount Ushba. You can find a detailed itinerary below.

Please keep in mind that it is preferable to have preliminary acclimatization which will allow you to move faster during the ascent. If you don’t, we will carry it out together. Also, you will need to have prior mountaineering experience as well as a great fitness level.

So, are you ready for an exciting Mount Ushba ascent? Then contact me now and I will happily guide you to the top of these two stunning peaks.

Or, if you prefer, you can join me on single peak programs, either to climb the [Mount Ushba south peak](https://www.explore-share.com/trip/mount-ushba-climbing-south-peak/) or to [climb the Mount Ushba north peak](https://www.explore-share.com/trip/mount-ushba-classic-route-north-peak-georgia/)!

Vehicle ride to Mestia. The town is placed at 1500 meters altitude. Bight at the guest house.

Walk at Mestia. Equipment check. Start of acclimatization. Walk to the observation point (2200m) or higher to Koruldi Lakes (2700m). In fair weather, we can see Ushba, Tetnuld, and other Caucasus summits.

Acclimatization

Ride to Mazeri village (community Becho). Ascending to the Camp 1, altitude 2650 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Camp 1

The beginning of the technical part of the route. Ascending to an intermediate Camp 2. Altitude 3300 meters.

Ascending to the assault camp at 4000 meters. If we have any available time we can camp higher and/or attach two ropes at the route key to avoid spending time on the assault day.

Assault camp

Rest day

Passing the route key and reaching the summit of South Ushba, at 4710m. Shooting photos, observing surrounding mountains. Then, we will descend to the saddle where we will be faced by snow ridges. Passing the ridges and setting up at the campsite on the plateau near the North Peak.

Summit of South Ushba

Ascent to the summit of North Ushba, at 4690 meters. Shooting photos, tweeting, looking at the gorgeous South Peak from aside. It is required to descend to the camp on the north face of Ushba at 4000 meters.

Summit of North Ushba

Reserve day

Second reserve day

Descend to Mazeri Village through Ushba Glacier. Transfer to Mestia, night in a guest house.

Airport

Join certified guide, Alexandr, on an exciting and challenging climb of the north and south peaks of Mount Ushba. Tackle rock, ice, and snow as you discover the pearl of the Caucasus range!

Mount Ushba climbing, 2 peaks traverse in the Caucasus Mountains. 15-day trip. KMGA guide

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QdoBjWj8vIG3DHNhscHrhPmhV29qbScN

Mount Ushba climbing, 2 peaks traverse in the Caucasus Mountains

### Would you like to discover one of the most emblematic mountains of the Caucasus Range? Then join me on this technical ascent of the stunning Mount Ushba’s south peak!

Mount Ushba is located in the Svaneti region of Georgia. Steep and challenging, it is a daunting mountaineering feat to climb to the south summit at an altitude of 4,710 m (15,450 ft). There are different routes to get to the top. The easiest route to the summit is through the Ushba Glacier which is followed by a snow and ice ridge. However, we will take a more challenging option, passed by Gabriel Khergiani, that is more suitable for rock climbing fans.

On this climb, we will go by rock ridges and a few couloirs to the hardest and most interesting part of the route: two grade 6A-6B vertical climbing pitches. Further on, after we pass the ridge, we approach the summit. Once at the top, our hard work will be rewarded with stunning views of the Caucasus range. You can find a detailed itinerary below.

Keep in mind that this is a demanding technical ascent. Therefore, you will need to know how to use climbing equipment, and know rappelling and climbing skills. Additionally, you will need to have a good fitness level.

So, are you ready to reach the top of the Mount Ushba south peak? Then contact me now and let’s start planning an unforgettable ascent!

Or, if you prefer, you can join me to climb to the top via the classic route!

Tbilisi 

Hike in Mestia. Equipment check. Starting of acclimatization. Walk to the observation point (2200m) or higher to Koruldi Lakes (2700m). At fair weather we would see Ushba, Tetnuld and other Caucasus summits.

Hiking in Mestia

Transfer to Mazeri village (community Becho). Ascending to the Camp 1, altitude 3000 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Mazeri- Camp 1

The beginning of the technical part of the route. Ascending to an intermediate Camp 2. Altitude 3650 meters.

Ascending to the assault camp at 4200 meters. If we will have an available time we could make camp higher and/or attach two ropes at the route key to avoid spending time on the assault day.

 Rest or reserve day.

Passing the route key and reaching the summit of South Ushba, 4710. Shooting photos, tweeting, observing of surrounding mountains. Descending to the assault camp.

Summit day

Descent to Camp 1.

Transfer to Mestia and transfer to Tbilisi.

Walk in Tbilisi. This day can be used as reserved in case of bad weather at the mountain.

Extra day

Join certified guide, Alexandr, on this exciting 12-day Mount Ushba climbing adventure and discover the south peak of the "Matterhorn of the Caucasus" on a unique mountaineering program in Georgia.

Alexandr

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