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Mount Ushba climbing, 2 peaks traverse in the Caucasus Mountains

Join certified guide, Alexandr, on an exciting and challenging climb of the north and south peaks of Mount Ushba. Tackle rock, ice, and snow as you discover the pearl of the Caucasus range!

Mountain RangeCaucasus
Duration15 days
Offer periodJun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelFit
Type of tripPrivate

Highlights

  • Visit both peaks of Mount Ushba on a unique mountaineering program.

  • Discover one of the most amazing mountains in the Caucasus Range.

  • Join an unforgettable mountain climbing program and put your skills to test.

Description

Would you like to discover one of the most amazing mountains in the Caucasus range? Then join me on this full 15-day 2-peak climb of the stunning Mount Ushba.

Mount Ushba is located in the Caucasus Mountains, in Georgia. It has two peaks, north, and south. At 4690 meters, north Ushba is the easiest to climb of the two, whilst the south peak, at 4710 meters is not only the highest but also the most technically challenging. On this program, we will start with the south peak via the Gabriel Khergiani route, and then head up the classic route to the summit of the north peak. You will need rock climbing, ice climbing, and glacier trekking skills to climb the two stunning peaks of Mount Ushba. You can find a detailed itinerary below.

Please keep in mind that it is preferable to have preliminary acclimatization which will allow you to move faster during the ascent. If you don’t, we will carry it out together. Also, you will need to have prior mountaineering experience as well as a great fitness level.

So, are you ready for an exciting Mount Ushba ascent? Then contact me now and I will happily guide you to the top of these two stunning peaks.

Or, if you prefer, you can join me on single peak programs, either to climb the Mount Ushba south peak or to climb the Mount Ushba north peak!

Details

Accommodation

on the route, accommodation in tents, at the beginning and after the program, in the guesthouse.

Meeting point

Tbilisi Airport

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Itinerary

Day 1: Tbilisi

Meeting in Tbilisi (Georgia). Night at the hotel.

Day 2: Mestia

Vehicle ride to Mestia. The town is placed at 1500 meters altitude. Bight at the guest house.

Day 3: Acclimatization

Walk at Mestia. Equipment check. Start of acclimatization. Walk to the observation point (2200m) or higher to Koruldi Lakes (2700m). In fair weather, we can see Ushba, Tetnuld, and other Caucasus summits.

Day 4: Camp 1

Ride to Mazeri village (community Becho). Ascending to the Camp 1, altitude 2650 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 5: Camp 2

The beginning of the technical part of the route. Ascending to an intermediate Camp 2. Altitude 3300 meters.

Day 6: Assault camp

Ascending to the assault camp at 4000 meters. If we have any available time we can camp higher and/or attach two ropes at the route key to avoid spending time on the assault day.

Day 7: Rest day

Rest or reserve day.

Day 8: Summit of South Ushba

Passing the route key and reaching the summit of South Ushba, at 4710m. Shooting photos, observing surrounding mountains. Then, we will descend to the saddle where we will be faced by snow ridges. Passing the ridges and setting up at the campsite on the plateau near the North Peak.

Day 9: Summit of North Ushba

Ascent to the summit of North Ushba, at 4690 meters. Shooting photos, tweeting, looking at the gorgeous South Peak from aside. It is required to descend to the camp on the north face of Ushba at 4000 meters.

Day 10: Rest day

Day 11: Reserve day

Day 12: Second reserve day

Day 13: Mestia

Descend to Mazeri Village through Ushba Glacier. Transfer to Mestia, night in a guest house.

Day 14: Tbilisi

Transfer to Tbilisi. Celebration.

Day 15: Airport

Transfer to Airport.


Equipment you will need to bring

Poles

Helmet

Sunglasses

Crampons

Ice Axe

Harness

Belay device

Backpack

Water bottle

Other gear: Carabiner and other equipment please check with the guide for a complete list


About the guide

guide profile img

Mountain guide. Aspirant KMGA GUIDE SCHOOL KMGA (IFGMA) / Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association.

I have been climbing mountains since 2010. It has become my life and profession. I have experience in technical ascent and ascent to peaks above 7000 m, including in winter, as well as experience in climbing up to 7c level of free climbing. I am a Mountain Guide and an aspirant member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association KMGA.

I am glad that I can help others to climb interesting, beautiful peaks and share experiences. The main priority is the safety and effectiveness of climbing.

My favourite trips:
Mountainous regions: Pamir, Tien Shan, Caucasus, Himalayas
Countries: Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Georgia, Turkey, Nepal
Climbing the technical and high peaks of 7000+:
7000+: Khan Tengri, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Communism Peak
Technical ascents to the peaks in the mountains of Ala Archa (Northern Tien Shan), as well as Ushba, Kazbek, Tetnuld in the Caucasus Mountains!
I organize climbing training programs on Turkish Rocks. Areas Olympos, Cirali, Geykbairi.


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Prices per person

Group of 1

USD 7217 each

Group of 2

USD 4124 each

Group of 3

USD 4124 each

Group of 4

USD 4124 each

Group of 5

USD 4124 each

Group of 6

USD 4124 each

Group of 7

USD 4124 each

Group of 8

USD 4124 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation

- Transportation from your hotel/airport (if in area) to the start of the trip and back

- Transport during the trip

Price details

Service includes:

Transfers from Tbilisi to Mestia and back.

Transfers from Mestia to Mazeri (Becho) and back.

Accommodation in guesthouse in Mestia for 3 days.

Food on the active part of the route.

Stoves, Fuel, Pot for cooking.

Rent of a tent.

Crew equipment: Ropes, carabiners, ice axes.

Service does not include:

Personal equipment: crampons, ice axes, carabiners, harness, helmet, backpack.

Personal camp and kitchen equipment: sleeping bag, dinnerware, etc.

Flight tickets to and from Georgia.

Feeding in cafe and restaurants.

Accommodation in Tbilisi.

Any other expenses not pointed out in the description.


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