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Mount Ushba climbing in 12 days (south peak)

Join certified guide, Alexandr, on this exciting 12-day Mount Ushba climbing adventure and discover the south peak of the "Matterhorn of the Caucasus" on a unique mountaineering program in Georgia.

Mountain RangeCaucasus
Duration12 days
Offer periodJun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Skill LevelIntermediate
Fitness LevelFit
Type of tripGroup

Highlights

  • Climbing Ushba is a worthy victory for any climber.

  • Develop technical skills for mountaineering.

  • Go up the famous peak where great Svan climber, Mikhail Khergiani, trained.

  • Visit the house-museum of Mikhail Khergiani.

  • Discover the mountains of the Caucasus and the culture of the Georgian people.

Description

Would you like to discover one of the most emblematic mountains of the Caucasus Range? Then join me on this technical ascent of the stunning Mount Ushba’s south peak!

Mount Ushba is located in the Svaneti region of Georgia. Steep and challenging, it is a daunting mountaineering feat to climb to the south summit at an altitude of 4,710 m (15,450 ft). There are different routes to get to the top. The easiest route to the summit is through the Ushba Glacier which is followed by a snow and ice ridge. However, we will take a more challenging option, passed by Gabriel Khergiani, that is more suitable for rock climbing fans.

On this climb, we will go by rock ridges and a few couloirs to the hardest and most interesting part of the route: two grade 6A-6B vertical climbing pitches. Further on, after we pass the ridge, we approach the summit. Once at the top, our hard work will be rewarded with stunning views of the Caucasus range. You can find a detailed itinerary below.

Keep in mind that this is a demanding technical ascent. Therefore, you will need to know how to use climbing equipment, and know rappelling and climbing skills. Additionally, you will need to have a good fitness level.

So, are you ready to reach the top of the Mount Ushba south peak? Then contact me now and let’s start planning an unforgettable ascent!

Or, if you prefer, you can join me to climb to the top via the classic route!

Details

Accommodation

on the route accommodation in tents, at the beginning and after the program accommodation in a guesthouse.

Meeting point

Tbilisi Airport

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Itinerary

Day 1: Tbilisi

Meeting in Tbilisi (Georgia). Night at the hotel.

Day 2: Mestia

Vehicle ride to Mestia. The town is placed at 1500 meters altitude. Night at the guest house.

Day 3: Hiking in Mestia

Hike in Mestia. Equipment check. Starting of acclimatization. Walk to the observation point (2200m) or higher to Koruldi Lakes (2700m). At fair weather we would see Ushba, Tetnuld and other Caucasus summits.

Day 4: Mazeri- Camp 1

Transfer to Mazeri village (community Becho). Ascending to the Camp 1, altitude 3000 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 5: Camp 2

The beginning of the technical part of the route. Ascending to an intermediate Camp 2. Altitude 3650 meters.

Day 6: Assault camp

Ascending to the assault camp at 4200 meters. If we will have an available time we could make camp higher and/or attach two ropes at the route key to avoid spending time on the assault day.

Day 7: Rest or reserve day.

Day 8: Summit day

Passing the route key and reaching the summit of South Ushba, 4710. Shooting photos, tweeting, observing of surrounding mountains. Descending to the assault camp.

Day 9: Descent to Camp 1.

Day 10: Transfer to Mestia and transfer to Tbilisi.

Day 11: Extra day

Walk in Tbilisi. This day can be used as reserved in case of bad weather at the mountain.

Day 12: Transfer to Airport.


Equipment you will need to bring

Poles

Helmet

Sunglasses

Crampons

Ice Axe

Harness

Belay device

Backpack

Water bottle

Other gear: carbiner


About the guide

guide profile img

Mountain guide. Aspirant KMGA GUIDE SCHOOL KMGA (IFGMA) / Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association.

I have been climbing mountains since 2010. It has become my life and profession. I have experience in technical ascent and ascent to peaks above 7000 m, including in winter, as well as experience in climbing up to 7c level of free climbing. I am a Mountain Guide and an aspirant member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association KMGA.

I am glad that I can help others to climb interesting, beautiful peaks and share experiences. The main priority is the safety and effectiveness of climbing.

My favourite trips:
Mountainous regions: Pamir, Tien Shan, Caucasus, Himalayas
Countries: Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Georgia, Turkey, Nepal
Climbing the technical and high peaks of 7000+:
7000+: Khan Tengri, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Communism Peak
Technical ascents to the peaks in the mountains of Ala Archa (Northern Tien Shan), as well as Ushba, Kazbek, Tetnuld in the Caucasus Mountains!
I organize climbing training programs on Turkish Rocks. Areas Olympos, Cirali, Geykbairi.


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Prices per person

Group of 1

USD 5464 each

Group of 2

USD 2887 each

Group of 3

USD 2887 each

Group of 4

USD 2887 each

Group of 5

USD 2887 each

Group of 6

USD 2887 each

Group of 7

USD 2887 each

Group of 8

USD 2887 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation

- Transport during the trip

Price details

Service includes:

Transfers from Tbilisi to Mestia and backward.

Transfers from Mestia to Mazeri (Becho) and backward.

Accommodation in guest house in Mestia for 3 days.

Food on the active part of the route.

Stoves, Fuel, Pot for cooking.

Rent of a tent.

Crew equipment: Ropes, carabiners, ice axes.

Service not includes:

Personal equipment: crampons, ice axes, carabiners, harness, helmet, backpack.

Personal camp and kitchen equipment: sleeping bag, dinnerware, etc.

Flight tickets to and from Georgia.

Feeding in cafe and restaurants.

Accommodation in Tbilisi.

Any other expenses not pointed in the description.


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