Ushba, King of the Caucasus Guided Climb in Georgia
Join Rockbuster guides on a unique mountain climbing experience in Georgia. Reach the summit of Ushba, a Caucasus favorite that stands tall at an altitude of 4,710 m (15,450 ft) in Svaneti, and is waiting for you to climb it!
Group
Caucasus
12 Days
Jun - Sep
Very high
Advanced
Highlights
- Climb to the top of Ushba, the King of the Caucasus
- Join a mountaineering adventure in Georgia led by a local guide
- Discover the Georgian mountain culture and awe-inspiring landscapes
Description
At 4,710 m (15,450 ft), Ushba is one of the most stately mountains in the Caucasus. Due to its shape, it’s earned itself the nickname of “Matterhorn of the Caucasus”. Join an amazing 12-day guided climb to its breathtaking summit.
On this mountain climbing program, you will have the chance to experience the unique mountain culture of Svaneti, in Georgia. After picking you up at the airport, we will transfer you to Mazeri, a beautiful mountain townlet with a rich history and culture. From there, we will set off on our way to the Ushba summit. You can find a detailed itinerary below.
Keep in mind that Ushba is graded Difficult: D / UIAA – IV. Therefore, this program is for climbers with prior ice climbing and mountaineering experience. Additionally, you will need to be in good mental and physical shape to tackle the climb. You will also need to be familiar with the equipment. Of course, we'll be there every step of the way to help and guide you.
So, do you think you’re ready for the Ushba summit? Then contact me today and let’s start planning a guided climb in the Caucasus!
Price includes
Price details
- Expert guiding team for the Ushba climb
- Transfer from Kutaisi to Mazeri
- Drop-off at the trek starting point
- Accommodation in Mazeri, Mestia, and Tbilisi
- Transfer between Mazeri and Mestia
- Meals provided throughout the program
- Group gear and communal equipment
- Safety and emergency equipment
- Luggage storage and handling
- NOT INCLUDED
- International flights
- Travel and rescue insurance
- Rental of personal climbing gear
- Porter services or private portering
- Route alterations or additional logistics
- Extra food and beverages
- Personal expenses
- Gratuities
Meeting point
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival and Transfer to Mazeri
Your guide will meet you at Tbilisi or Kutaisi airport. The transfer to the mountain village of Mazeri (1,660 meters) takes approximately 8 hours from Tbilisi and 4.5 hours from Kutaisi.
In Mazeri, surrounded by alpine meadows, you will spend your first night in a guesthouse. Enjoy a welcome dinner and get acquainted with traditional Georgian cuisine. You'll also check your equipment and obtain permits for the climb.
Day 2: Transfer to the Camp Below the Glacier
We begin with a transfer to the camp below the Ushbinsky Glacier (2,450 meters). The journey will take you through dense Svan fir forests and offer picturesque views along the way.
Mazeri itself provides a sweeping panorama of the mountains, including a stunning view of the powerful Shdugra waterfall. Tonight, we will stay in tents at the foot of the Ushbinsky Glacier.
Day 3: Climb to the Second Camp
We’ll climb higher today as we cross the Ushba Glacier to reach the Gnezdo mountaineering camp (3,350 meters). From here, you’ll have fantastic views of the Ushba Icefall with its sunlit cracks and massive ice blocks. The towering Ushba wall will now appear much closer.
Day 4: Climb to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC)
Our goal is to bypass the Ushbinsky Icefall and reach the Ushbinsky Plateau (4,100 meters). We’ll stop here for the night at the assault camp and enjoy breathtaking views of the peaks of Elbrus and Shkhela, as well as the impressive Ushba wall.
Day 5: Acclimatization and Route Marking
We will stay at the same camp for the night but spend the day acclimatizing with a training outing to the “pillow,” where we’ll practice mountaineering techniques. We will also prepare the lower part of our main route for the summit ascent.
Day 6: Rest and Preparation
After the physical exertion of the previous days, we take a well-deserved rest and make final preparations for the upcoming ascent of Ushba.
Day 7: Summit Day – Ascent of Ushba North
The day we’ve all been waiting for! We’ll ascend Ushba North (4,690 meters), a challenging route with a category “D+” difficulty. The climb will take 8-9 hours, requiring you to navigate ice ropes and a sharp ridge with many "gendarmes." Along the way, you’ll feel the power of this iconic mountain. The reward: the sharp peak of Ushba, the "Queen of the Caucasus"!
Day 8: Descent to the First Camp
A long descent back to the camp at the foot of the Ushbinsky Glacier or, depending on the group’s physical condition and weather, possibly back to the village of Mazeri.
Day 9: Descent to Mestia
We descend to Mazeri or leave from there for Mestia (1,500 meters), a village in Upper Svaneti. Here, you can visit the Svan towers, ancient structures dating back 2,000 years, or the ethnographic museum and the Mikhail Khergiani mountaineering museum.
In the welcoming atmosphere of the Caucasus, we’ll enjoy a festive dinner to celebrate our successful ascent of Ushba!
Day 10 to 11: Reserve Days
These days are reserved as backups in case of bad weather or necessary route adjustments.
Day 11: Transfer to the City
This adventure will conclude with a transfer to Tbilisi or Kutaisi. Departure the following day.
Equipment you will need to bring
Clothing: You will need thermal underwear, a thin fleece jacket and pants, a thick fleece jacket, a storm shell jacket and pants, a hat, a neck gaiter (Buff), a balaclava, a warm down jacket, gloves, mittens, mountaineering boots, gaiters, socks, summer clothes, a rain jacket and backpack cover, and hiking boots.
Equipment: Make sure to bring a harness, carabiners, a belay device, an ascender, a helmet, an ice axe, crampons, trekking poles, sunglasses, ski goggles, a summit backpack, a duffel bag, a sleeping bag, and a sleeping pad.
Other Essentials: Don’t forget a thermos, a headlamp, a personal first aid kit, sunscreen, a hygiene kit, and your important documents.
FAQs
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
About the guide
Rock'n'Snow
5.0
(8)
Languages
English | Russian
Certificates
IFMGA
What people are saying about Rock'n'Snow
It was a great journey, within one week we ski toured in two locations: Chimbulak and Cosmostation. Everything was well organized and it was a pleasure to spend a time with a great team and experienced guide!
Dima is one of the most knowledgeable and comfortable guides I know. He lives and breathes the mountains. He understands the group perfectly and does everything to ensure safe skiing. Dima has a great sense of humor and finds an excellent rapport with each group member. He's a reliable companion.
Ski Touring in Karakol: Thanks for the Best Freeride Weekend! We went ski touring in the Karakol area (Kyrgyzstan) in January. I want to give a special thanks to our guide, Dmitry. This was my first ski tour in Kyrgyzstan, and I was a little nervous. But the guide did everything he could to make the trip perfect. What I liked: 1. Professionalism. He knows the terrain around Karakol perfectly. We didn't waste time searching for the "right" snow; from the very first day, we skied only on high-quality, safe slopes. 2.Safety. He constantly monitored the avalanche situation, took readings from the test blocks (he always let us try them ourselves, and explained the physics of snow). The group was confident that we were on the right route. 3. Adaptation to the group. One of us was going slowly, so the guide didn't rush ahead, but patiently waited for the one lagging behind. The faster guys didn't get bored either—he let them speed up on the descents on the safe shoulders. 4.Logistics. He helped with transfers from Bishkek and knows the best houses in Karakol (the flatbreads and tea were a lifesaver after long hikes). Who would recommend him to: ski touring beginners and experienced freeriders. The snow in Kyrgyzstan is incredible: powder, sun, and no people. The guide completely captured the region. Thank you so much, we'll definitely be back!
It was amazing and wonderful trip in my life with a great and very professional guide. I got an unforgettable good impressions from this climb for a lifetime. It’s just cool!
It was an amazing trip with Dmitry from Rock'n'Snow! From start to finish, everything was perfectly planned and organized, which made the whole experience smooth and stress-free. Dmitry is a true professional who is always one step ahead, constantly thinking about the safety and comfort of his clients. His deep knowledge of the mountains, attention to detail, and calm confidence in challenging situations gave me complete trust throughout the climb. He carefully assessed conditions, adapted plans when needed, and made sure I felt prepared and supported at every stage of the route. Beyond his technical skills, Dmitry is also a great companion in the mountains — patient, encouraging, and genuinely passionate about what he does. He shared valuable techniques and tips that I will carry with me on future climbs. I can wholeheartedly recommend Dmitry and Rock'n'Snow to anyone looking for a serious, safe, and unforgettable alpine mountaineering experience. I'm already looking forward to my next trip with him!
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