




Join Rockbuster guides on a unique mountain climbing experience in Georgia. Reach the summit of Ushba, a Caucasus favorite that stands tall at an altitude of 4,710 m (15,450 ft) in Svaneti, and is waiting for you to climb it!
Group
Caucasus
12 Days
Jun - Sep
Very high
Advanced
At 4,710 m (15,450 ft), Ushba is one of the most stately mountains in the Caucasus. Due to its shape, it’s earned itself the nickname of “Matterhorn of the Caucasus”. Join an amazing 12-day guided climb to its breathtaking summit.
On this mountain climbing program, you will have the chance to experience the unique mountain culture of Svaneti, in Georgia. After picking you up at the airport, we will transfer you to Mazeri, a beautiful mountain townlet with a rich history and culture. From there, we will set off on our way to the Ushba summit. You can find a detailed itinerary below.
Keep in mind that Ushba is graded Difficult: D / UIAA – IV. Therefore, this program is for climbers with prior ice climbing and mountaineering experience. Additionally, you will need to be in good mental and physical shape to tackle the climb. You will also need to be familiar with the equipment. Of course, we'll be there every step of the way to help and guide you.
So, do you think you’re ready for the Ushba summit? Then contact me today and let’s start planning a guided climb in the Caucasus!
Meeting point
Your guide will meet you at Tbilisi or Kutaisi airport. The transfer to the mountain village of Mazeri (1,660 meters) takes approximately 8 hours from Tbilisi and 4.5 hours from Kutaisi.
In Mazeri, surrounded by alpine meadows, you will spend your first night in a guesthouse. Enjoy a welcome dinner and get acquainted with traditional Georgian cuisine. You'll also check your equipment and obtain permits for the climb.
We begin with a transfer to the camp below the Ushbinsky Glacier (2,450 meters). The journey will take you through dense Svan fir forests and offer picturesque views along the way.
Mazeri itself provides a sweeping panorama of the mountains, including a stunning view of the powerful Shdugra waterfall. Tonight, we will stay in tents at the foot of the Ushbinsky Glacier.
We’ll climb higher today as we cross the Ushba Glacier to reach the Gnezdo mountaineering camp (3,350 meters). From here, you’ll have fantastic views of the Ushba Icefall with its sunlit cracks and massive ice blocks. The towering Ushba wall will now appear much closer.
Our goal is to bypass the Ushbinsky Icefall and reach the Ushbinsky Plateau (4,100 meters). We’ll stop here for the night at the assault camp and enjoy breathtaking views of the peaks of Elbrus and Shkhela, as well as the impressive Ushba wall.
We will stay at the same camp for the night but spend the day acclimatizing with a training outing to the “pillow,” where we’ll practice mountaineering techniques. We will also prepare the lower part of our main route for the summit ascent.
After the physical exertion of the previous days, we take a well-deserved rest and make final preparations for the upcoming ascent of Ushba.
The day we’ve all been waiting for! We’ll ascend Ushba North (4,690 meters), a challenging route with a category “D+” difficulty. The climb will take 8-9 hours, requiring you to navigate ice ropes and a sharp ridge with many "gendarmes." Along the way, you’ll feel the power of this iconic mountain. The reward: the sharp peak of Ushba, the "Queen of the Caucasus"!
A long descent back to the camp at the foot of the Ushbinsky Glacier or, depending on the group’s physical condition and weather, possibly back to the village of Mazeri.
We descend to Mazeri or leave from there for Mestia (1,500 meters), a village in Upper Svaneti. Here, you can visit the Svan towers, ancient structures dating back 2,000 years, or the ethnographic museum and the Mikhail Khergiani mountaineering museum.
In the welcoming atmosphere of the Caucasus, we’ll enjoy a festive dinner to celebrate our successful ascent of Ushba!
These days are reserved as backups in case of bad weather or necessary route adjustments.
This adventure will conclude with a transfer to Tbilisi or Kutaisi. Departure the following day.
Clothing: You will need thermal underwear, a thin fleece jacket and pants, a thick fleece jacket, a storm shell jacket and pants, a hat, a neck gaiter (Buff), a balaclava, a warm down jacket, gloves, mittens, mountaineering boots, gaiters, socks, summer clothes, a rain jacket and backpack cover, and hiking boots.
Equipment: Make sure to bring a harness, carabiners, a belay device, an ascender, a helmet, an ice axe, crampons, trekking poles, sunglasses, ski goggles, a summit backpack, a duffel bag, a sleeping bag, and a sleeping pad.
Other Essentials: Don’t forget a thermos, a headlamp, a personal first aid kit, sunscreen, a hygiene kit, and your important documents.
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
5.0
(10)
Languages
English | Russian
Certificates
IFMGA
Dimitry is a super fun and patient teacher, who is really passionate about mountaineering. He made a really nice program for the week, where he challenged us to become independent climbers
Menno
Dmitry was the best guide we could have wished for, a very calm person with loads of great stories and experience. We arived in Bishkek a bit before the trip started, and he invited us to have dinner with him at a local restaurant to also gain this experience. We were complete beginners before this adventure and before hand he helped us with al the gear, booking accommodation before and after the trip and even helped us with other non trip related questions about renting and the country. As we were complete beginners he adjusted the program to what we were capable of at the time, starting with al the basics in a simulation, and quickly moving on to bigger things as we climbed our first peak on our own on day three! He gave us the confidence to do it without his help as he explained: “you should be able to do this also when he is not there”, of course while maintaining an eye to make sure we are doing everything safely. During this trip we also became friends, he joined us for drinks in the spare hours we had during the trip, and also joined us for drinks after the trip for a nice “so you soon” rather than a goodbye. Thanks Dmitry for all we have learned, all we have experienced and we will definitely contact you for our next adventure!
It was a great journey, within one week we ski toured in two locations: Chimbulak and Cosmostation. Everything was well organized and it was a pleasure to spend a time with a great team and experienced guide!
Dima is one of the most knowledgeable and comfortable guides I know. He lives and breathes the mountains. He understands the group perfectly and does everything to ensure safe skiing. Dima has a great sense of humor and finds an excellent rapport with each group member. He's a reliable companion.
Ski Touring in Karakol: Thanks for the Best Freeride Weekend! We went ski touring in the Karakol area (Kyrgyzstan) in January. I want to give a special thanks to our guide, Dmitry. This was my first ski tour in Kyrgyzstan, and I was a little nervous. But the guide did everything he could to make the trip perfect. What I liked: 1. Professionalism. He knows the terrain around Karakol perfectly. We didn't waste time searching for the "right" snow; from the very first day, we skied only on high-quality, safe slopes. 2.Safety. He constantly monitored the avalanche situation, took readings from the test blocks (he always let us try them ourselves, and explained the physics of snow). The group was confident that we were on the right route. 3. Adaptation to the group. One of us was going slowly, so the guide didn't rush ahead, but patiently waited for the one lagging behind. The faster guys didn't get bored either—he let them speed up on the descents on the safe shoulders. 4.Logistics. He helped with transfers from Bishkek and knows the best houses in Karakol (the flatbreads and tea were a lifesaver after long hikes). Who would recommend him to: ski touring beginners and experienced freeriders. The snow in Kyrgyzstan is incredible: powder, sun, and no people. The guide completely captured the region. Thank you so much, we'll definitely be back!
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