Climbing Denali via Normal Route, Alaska (22 days)

Meet the team at the reserved accommodation at 12:45 pm. At 1:00 pm, gather for an orientation session and equipment check. There will be time to rent or purchase any additional gear needed for the expedition. Prepare and pack lunches for the mountain. The rest of the evening is free to explore Talkeetna and relax before the climb.

Meet the team at the accommodation at 7:45 am and depart at 8:00 am for a briefing with the National Park Service. Review essential mountaineering skills, have lunch, and complete the final packing, weighing, and loading of equipment. At approximately 3:00 pm, take a flight to the Kahiltna Glacier base camp at 7,200 ft.

Distance: 60 miles | Elevation gain: 6,850 ft.

Begin the ascent across the glacier, practicing glacier travel techniques and crevasse rescue procedures. Carry equipment to Camp 1 at 7,800 ft., where the first mountain camp will be established.

Distance: 5.5 miles | Elevation gain: 600 ft.

Carry a load of supplies toward Kahiltna Pass at 9,700 ft. before returning to Camp 1. This carry helps distribute equipment along the route in preparation for the next stages of the ascent.

Distance: 5 miles round trip | Elevation gain: 1,900 ft.

Continue ascending toward Camp 2 at 11,000 ft., carrying the equipment needed to establish the next camp. The route gains elevation through the glacier terrain, marking an important step in the expedition.

Distance: 4 miles | Elevation gain: 3,200 ft.

Descend to 9,700 ft. to retrieve additional supplies and transport them higher along the route. The remainder of the day is reserved for acclimatization and provides flexibility in case of unfavorable weather.

Distance: 2 miles round trip.

Carry equipment toward 13,500 ft., following the route around Windy Corner. This section involves continued glacier travel and prepares the team for the higher camps.

Distance: 3.5 miles round trip | Elevation gain: 2,500 ft.

Ascend to Camp 3 at 14,200 ft., crossing increasingly demanding terrain at higher altitude. Establish camp and allow time to adjust to the thinner air.

Distance: 2.75 miles | Elevation gain: 3,200 ft.

Descend at 13,500 ft. to retrieve previously stored supplies before returning to Camp 3. This additional carry helps prepare the team for the upper mountain.

Distance: 2 miles round trip | Elevation gain: 700 ft.

Carry additional supplies to 16,200 ft. The team then returns to Camp 3 to continue acclimatizing.

Distance: 2 miles round trip | Elevation gain: 2,000 ft.

Spend the day at 14,200 ft. to rest and acclimatize before moving higher. This day also serves as a weather contingency, allowing the schedule to adapt to mountain conditions.

Continue the ascent to Camp 4 at 17,200 ft. This high-altitude camp is an important staging point for the summit attempt, with challenging conditions and reduced oxygen availability.

Distance: 1.75 miles | Elevation gain: 3,000 ft.

Spend the day resting and adjusting to the altitude at 17,200 ft. This additional time also provides flexibility to wait for a suitable weather window before attempting the summit.

Use this six-day period for the summit attempt, with flexibility to accommodate changing weather and mountain conditions. The objective is to reach Denali's summit at 20,310 ft. before returning to Camp 4.

Distance: 5 miles round trip | Elevation gain: 3,120 ft.

Begin the descent from the upper mountain, returning to Camp 3 at 14,200 ft. The route retraces part of the ascent, with a significant loss of elevation.

Distance: 1.5 miles | Elevation loss: 3,000 ft.

Continue descending across the glacier to base camp at 7,200 ft. This long descent marks the final stage of the mountaineering portion of the expedition.

Distance: 12.25 miles | Elevation loss: 7,000 ft.

Board a flight from the Kahiltna Glacier base camp back to Talkeetna, concluding the Denali West Buttress expedition.