Climbing West Buttress route on Denali – 20 days
Ascending Mount Denali, in Alaska, is a dream for mountaineers. Led by an AMGA certified mountain guide, ascend this 6190m summit via the West Buttress route. It is definitely a demanding expedition, but the satisfaction will be immense!
Not specified
Alaska Range
20 Days
May, Jun, Jul
Extremely Fit
Advanced
Description
Mount Denali, in Alaska, is the highest peak in North America. It rises to 6190 meters and its ascent is very demanding. The easiest way (and the most popular) to ascend this impressive summit is through the West Buttress route.
But “easiest” is definitely a relative term. This ascent is very demanding, although the route is not technical. Indeed, it does not include rock climbing nor vertical ice climbing. But the conditions will be extreme: the expedition is long, there are steep climbing sections, the terrain is glaciated, the altitude is an important factor. The itinerary is flexible to adapt to the conditions and increase the chance of success.
This is without a doubt a once in a lifetime experience, a dream for mountaineers in an incredibly beautiful environment.
A key factor to succeed in this climbing trip is to achieve proper acclimatization. The program is designed to have a good and slow acclimatization, but it is also very important to be in excellent physical shape for your body to acclimatize properly.
For more information about the program have a look at the model daily itinerary below.
To join this trip you need to be in top physical shape and have glacier climbing experience. You need to have previously successfully completed a multi-day mountaineering seminar, including a successful summit climb. If you have doubts about your experience, let’s talk about it! And if you are looking for a seminar of this kind, have a look at this 8-day Mount Rainier preparation course for Denali.
Dreaming of climbing the mythical Denali? The West Buttress route is waiting for you, send a request and we will start the preparation!
Price includes
- Guiding fee
- Transport during the trip
- Permit and entrance fees
- Breakfast
- Dinner
Price details
The price includes three nights lodging in Talkeetna. Half board meals are not included when we are off the mountain.
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival - Transfer to Talkeetna
Meeting at Anchorage International Airport. Transfer to Talkeetna (included), leabing at 4:30PM. Possibility to buy fresh food to complete your lunches on the mountain. Overnight at Latitude 62.
Altitude: 106m
Day 2: Expedition preparation
We meet at the Roadhouse Restaurant at 7AM. We get ready to fly to the mountain. We will attend a National Park Service presentation. We check the equipment and give final recommendations. Overnight at Latitude 62.
Altitude: 106m
Day 3: Kahiltna base camp
We meet at K2 Aviation and take the bush plane to Kahiltna Base Camp. The views during the flight are outstanding. We review some mountaineering skills at base camp.
Altitude: 2225m
Day 4: Base of Ski Hill
We leave the Base Camp and descend to the Kahiltna glacier. We head then towards Denali travelling up the glacial rolls. We set camp at the base of Ski Hill.
Altitude: 2377m
Day 5: Camp at 2926m
We ascend towards Kahiltna pass, climbing up the glacier. We set camp just below the Pass.
Altitude: 2926m
Day 6: 11K Camp
We continue up and towards the east, on a glacial valley, setting camp at the pase of Motorcycle Hill.
Altitude: 3414m
Day 7: Acclimatization at 11K Camp
Today we rest, review technical skills and prepare for the days ahead.
Altitude: 3414m
Day 8: Cache and back to 11K Camp
We climb Motorcycle Hill up to a point with outstanding views. Then we climb up Squirrel Hill to the Polo Field. It is a wide glacial bench at the foot of West Buttress. We go up to 4115 meters. We leave food, fuel and personal items in our cache site and return to 11K Camp.
Max altitude: 4115m
Day 9: Acclimatization
Important acclimatization day.
Altitude: 3414m
Day 10: 14K Camp
We ascend to 14K Camp, climbing around Windy Corner, passing our cache site. We reach out camp in Genet Basin.
Altitude: 4328m
Day 11: Back to cache
We go down to our cache site to retrieve our gear, and return to 14K Camp.
Altitude: 4328m
Day 12: Acclimatization
We practice some climbing skills and spend the day resting to acclimatize.
Altitude: 4328m
Day 13: Up to Cache
We go up to the north side of Genet Basing. Depending on the conditions and our energy, we can make our cache site at the top of the fixed lines or higher. We then return to 14K Camp.
Max altitude: 4938-5242m
Day 14: Acclimatization
A very important acclimtization day, that might include some walks if the weather allows.
Altitude: 4328m
Day 15: 17K Camp
We ascend the north side of Genet Basin again. We gain the fixed lines to the ridge crest of the West Butress (4938m). We get some essentials from our cache site and reach High Camp.
Altitude: 5243m
Day 16: Summit day!
We start with a long traverse along the Autobahn to Denali pass at 5547m. Beyond Denali Pass we will follow the ridge line. We pass the Zebra Rocks and the Archdeacon’s Tower. Then we reach the Football Field (5852m). We continue ascending to the top of Pig Hill and the summit ridge. We get to the top og the South Peak. Upon reaching the summit we take some time to celebrate and enjoy the moment. Then we descend back to High Camp. It will be a long day!
Max altitude: 6190m
Day 17: 11K Camp
We descend from 17K camp to 11K Camp down the West Buttress, stopping at 14K Camp to get our belongings.
Altitude: 3414m
Day 18: Kahiltna Base Camp
We continue out descent down to Kahiltna Base Camp.
Altitude: 2225m
Day 19: Talkeetna
We return to Talkeetna by plane. Overnight at Latitude 62.
Day 20: Return
Travel to Anchorage International Aiport to fly back home.
Details
Accommodation Hotel in Talkeetna, camping on the mountain. |
More info You need to bring your own lunches packed for the whole expedition. |
Meeting point At Anchorage International Airport. |
About the guide
One of our certified guides will take you skiing and climbing to some of the best spots in North America. In the USA we offer trips in California, Colorado, Maine, Alaska, Oregon, Arizona, Washington, Montana, Nevada, Texas, Utah and Vermont. And in Canada, you'll find tours in Quebec, Alberta and British Columbia.
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