Climbing Korzhenevskaya and Kommunizma, 27 days Mountaineering in Tajikistan
Join IFMGA certified guide Andrey for this unbelievable 27-day mountaineering experience. Summit the 1st and 3rd highest peaks in Tajikistan!
Private
Pamir
27 Days
Jun - Sep
Very high
Advanced
Highlights
- Summit the 1st and 3rd highest peaks in Tajikistan and former Soviet Union
- Discover the spectacular wild beauty of this region like few can
- Enjoy helicopter rides to the start points and high quality base camp facilities
Description
Ismoil Somoni peak and Korzhenevskaya peak are the highest and third highest peaks respectively in Tajikistan and are natural wonders of epic proportions!
Ismoil Somoni peak was previously and is still locally reffered to as Communism Peak, as this area was part of the former Soviet Union.
Both of these imposing mountains are included in the five ‘Snow Leopard’ mountains – the five highest peaks in the Soviet Union. Ascending all five peaks merits the climber the Snow Leopard award, the highest mountaineering accolade possible in the former Soviert Union.
Ismoil Somoni dominates the landscape and as with the highest peak in any region, attracts the greatest number of mountaineers attempting to reach its summit at 7,495m. The first ascent of Ismoil Somoni was made in 1933 and it continues to be a popular climb.
Korzhenevskaya peak reaches an altitude of 7105m and is located a little south of the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border. Surrounded by the Muksu river and Fortambek Glacier, it provides truly stunning scenery.
Korzhenevskaya was first ascended in 1953, then in 1972 by an all-female crew and also in 1986 for the first winter ascent.
Separated by only about 12km, both Korzhenevskaya and Somoni peaks can be accessed by the same base camp of Djergital.
We will reach our base camp on the second day and then from the third day onwards we will acclimatise and do some practice ascents befor we summit Korzhenevskaya on the 14th day.
After three rest days we will helicopter our way to our start point for Ismoil Somoni peak and hope to ascend this mountain on the 22nd day.
Our itinerary of 27 days is subject to change due to weather or other unforseen circumstances and we will make the most appropriate decisions given the current information.
You will need to be very fit to complete this trip. Previous mountaineering and mountain ascension experienced in required.
Not many people ever have the chance or the determination to summit such giant mountains. Sign up now and join me on this unforgettable and breathtaking trip mountaineering in the stunning beauty of Tajikistan!
If this trip got you excited then check out these other excursions I run in Asia: Join me on this amazing 25-days in China next to the border with Pakistan as we ascend the unbelievable Muztagh Ata peak at 7546m!
Or if you’d prefer a shorter time frame then consider this 7-days in the absolutely gorgeous Ala-Archa National Park in the Tian Shan mountain range of Kyrgyzstan!
Price includes
- Accommodation included
- Guiding fee
- Breakfast
- Lunch
- Dinner
- Transport during the trip
- Transportation start and back
- Permit and entrance fees
- Mountain guide expenses
- Luggage transfer
- Rope
- Flight to the start
- Helicopter drops as described
Price details
- The helicopter ride is included in the price.
Meeting point
Itinerary
Day 1: Dushanbe
Arrival in Dushanbe, transfer and accommodation in a hotel. Overnight in Dushanbe.
Day
Day 2: Djergital
Transfer to Djergital. Accommodation in a hotel
Day 3: Moskvina Glade
Morning flight to Moskvina glade. Overnight in BC.
Day 4: Helipad at 4500m
Site seeing, approaching to helipad 4500m
Day 5: Vorobieva Peak
Climbing to Vorobieva peak 5691m, overnight in your own tent.
Day 6: Rest Day
Day 7: Peak of Four approach
Approaching to peak of Four, overnight in your own tent
Day 8: Peak of Four
Climbing to peak of Four 6464m, same day descent to BC
Day 9 to 10: Rest Day
Day 11: Begin Korzhenevskaya
Climbing to Korzhenevskaya peak C1 5400m
Day 12: C2 6400m
Day 13: Summit
Summit 7105m, descent to C2 6400m
Day 14: Descent to BC
Day 15 to 17: Rest Days
Day 18: Helicopter in
Approaching to helipad 4500m
Day 19: Begin Isoil Somoni
Climbing to peak Kommunizma (Ismoil Somoni) C1 5600m
Day 20: Firn Glade
C2 5850m, firn glade
Day 21: 6900m
C3 6900m peak Dushanbe
Day 22: Summit
Summit push 7498m, then descent to C3 6900m
Day 23: Descent to C1 5600m
Day 24: Descent to Base Camp at 4380m
Day 25: Flight to Djergital
Morning flight to Djergital
Day 26: Dushanbe Transfer
Transfer to Dushanbe, overnight in hotel
Day 27: Departure
About the guide
-Andrey
5.0
(11)
Mountain Guide
I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.
I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.
My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.
In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.
In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.
In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.
Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.
My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.
Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.
Languages
Russian | English
Certificates
KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA
What people are saying about -Andrey
magnus
Great experience in Jyrgalan Kyrgyzstan - Very competent end experienced guide. Very involved in making sure we got the best experience. A must do and highly recommend it!!
I had an awesome climb with Andrey to the summit of Peak Khan Tengri in August 2019. Andrey is a terrific guide and climbing companion. This climb was a huge challenge for me, both technically and physically. Andrey was outstanding in his focus on having a safe climb while at the same time doing everything possible to enable me to reach the summit. He showed excellent judgment and resourcefulness in planning our itinerary and making adjustments when needed. He was extraordinarily patient with my shortcomings. His friendly and engaging personality was a great benefit as well. I can honestly say, my positive experience on Khan Tengri was due in no small part to Andrey. I look forward to climbing with him again someday.
I climbed the Pobeda Peak with Andrey in 2011. It was something very difficult to achieve but we did it. The most difficult part of the trip was the section from the highest camp to the summit because of the altitude (more than 7000m). That was also the longest section of the climb. Andrey and I worked together up to the summit. I trusted 100% in Andrey during the climb because I knew him very well. He is a real professional climber!
Martina
For our rock climbing week Andrey had put together a programm which was ideally tailored to our skills. He handled everything in a very professional and trouble-free way. Under his guidance we learned a lot and gained confidence to undertake more challenging tours for ourselves in the future. At the same time, Andrey is also a really nice guy to hang out with. We had lots of fun during our tours and in the evenings. Thanks Andrey!
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