Join IFMGA certified guide Andrey for this unbelievable 27-day mountaineering experience. Summit the 1st and 3rd highest peaks in Tajikistan!
Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Ismoil Somoni peak and Korzhenevskaya peak are the highest and third highest peaks respectively in Tajikistan and are natural wonders of epic proportions!
Ismoil Somoni peak was previously and is still locally reffered to as Communism Peak, as this area was part of the former Soviet Union.
Both of these imposing mountains are included in the five ‘Snow Leopard’ mountains – the five highest peaks in the Soviet Union. Ascending all five peaks merits the climber the Snow Leopard award, the highest mountaineering accolade possible in the former Soviert Union.
Ismoil Somoni dominates the landscape and as with the highest peak in any region, attracts the greatest number of mountaineers attempting to reach its summit at 7,495m. The first ascent of Ismoil Somoni was made in 1933 and it continues to be a popular climb.
Korzhenevskaya peak reaches an altitude of 7105m and is located a little south of the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border. Surrounded by the Muksu river and Fortambek Glacier, it provides truly stunning scenery.
Korzhenevskaya was first ascended in 1953, then in 1972 by an all-female crew and also in 1986 for the first winter ascent.
Separated by only about 12km, both Korzhenevskaya and Somoni peaks can be accessed by the same base camp of Djergital.
We will reach our base camp on the second day and then from the third day onwards we will acclimatise and do some practice ascents befor we summit Korzhenevskaya on the 14th day.
After three rest days we will helicopter our way to our start point for Ismoil Somoni peak and hope to ascend this mountain on the 22nd day.
Our itinerary of 27 days is subject to change due to weather or other unforseen circumstances and we will make the most appropriate decisions given the current information.
You will need to be very fit to complete this trip. Previous mountaineering and mountain ascension experienced in required.
Not many people ever have the chance or the determination to summit such giant mountains. Sign up now and join me on this unforgettable and breathtaking trip mountaineering in the stunning beauty of Tajikistan!
If this trip got you excited then check out these other excursions I run in Asia: Join me on this amazing 25-days in China next to the border with Pakistan as we ascend the unbelievable Muztagh Ata peak at 7546m!
Or if you’d prefer a shorter time frame then consider this 7-days in the absolutely gorgeous Ala-Archa National Park in the Tian Shan mountain range of Kyrgyzstan!
- Guiding fee
- Accommodation included
- Transport during the trip
- Luggage transfer
The helicopter ride is included in the price.
Arrival in Dushanbe, transfer and accommodation in a hotel. Overnight in Dushanbe.
Transfer to Djergital. Accommodation in a hotel
Morning flight to Moskvina glade. Overnight in BC.
Site seeing, approaching to helipad 4500m
Climbing to Vorobieva peak 5691m, overnight in your own tent.
Approaching to peak of Four, overnight in your own tent
Climbing to peak of Four 6464m, same day descent to BC
Climbing to Korzhenevskaya peak C1 5400m
Summit 7105m, descent to C2 6400m
Approaching to helipad 4500m
Climbing to peak Kommunizma (Ismoil Somoni) C1 5600m
C2 5850m, firn glade
C3 6900m peak Dushanbe
Summit push 7498m, then descent to C3 6900m
Morning flight to Djergital
Transfer to Dushanbe, overnight in hotel
Base Camp Communism Peak Includes: Dining room for 80 people: A cozy place for evening with a kitchen, bar, TV set, audio and videotape recorders, chess, checkers and backgammon. • Canvas tents (2 persons per tent) laying upon woody pallets with mattresses and electricity. • Shower / sauna. • City version of WC - it is equipped with waste tanks and toilet paper. Furthermore there are convenient facilities for washing with warm water, soap and mirror in each Camp. • Cloak-room. • Surgeries with all necessary medical supplies including oxygen facilities for high quality first aid assistance. Experienced doctor-reanimation with high-altitude work experience can give you high quality aid assistance at any time. He is responsible for examining, advising you about your health during the tour. • Volleyball play-field. Long live sport and international tournaments of volleyball!!! • Special high-altitude rescue team capable of rendering most diverse rescue services including transportation at altitudes above 7000m. Registration of climbers in special ascent book is required. We’ll also give you a certificate when you descend. • 3 hot meals daily from professional cooks with more than 10 years experience. • Internet and satellite telephone. • Rent of mountaineering equipment, portable radio stations; priming of gas canisters.
I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.
I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.
My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.
In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.
In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.
In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.
Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.
My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.
Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.
Russian | English
KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA
Great experience in Jyrgalan Kyrgyzstan - Very competent end experienced guide. Very involved in making sure we got the best experience. A must do and highly recommend it!!
I had an awesome climb with Andrey to the summit of Peak Khan Tengri in August 2019. Andrey is a terrific guide and climbing companion. This climb was a huge challenge for me, both technically and physically. Andrey was outstanding in his focus on having a safe climb while at the same time doing everything possible to enable me to reach the summit. He showed excellent judgment and resourcefulness in planning our itinerary and making adjustments when needed. He was extraordinarily patient with my shortcomings. His friendly and engaging personality was a great benefit as well. I can honestly say, my positive experience on Khan Tengri was due in no small part to Andrey. I look forward to climbing with him again someday.
For our rock climbing week Andrey had put together a programm which was ideally tailored to our skills. He handled everything in a very professional and trouble-free way. Under his guidance we learned a lot and gained confidence to undertake more challenging tours for ourselves in the future. At the same time, Andrey is also a really nice guy to hang out with. We had lots of fun during our tours and in the evenings. Thanks Andrey!
We were a large group of 15 guys that spend one week with Andrey and his colleagues (because of the group size we had two additional guides). Andrey is a great guide and a good organiser. From we ordered until we arrived Andrey was available on Whatsapp and responded almost imminently to all our questions. When we landed we were meet by Andrey at the airport and a fleet of large SUV`s that took us to the base camp that was the starting point from the touring. The base camp was located far up in the mountains on the Kazakhstan border. The accommodations where ok, with a nice sauna as a pleasant surprise. The ski touring was nice in variated terrain. We were a bit unlucky with unstable snow conditions forcing us to ski a bit less steep than we hoped for, but the area got massive potential for nice skiing. We decided to end touring after five days in the mountain and spend the last night in Bishkek. There Andrey stepped into the role of a tourist guide and showed us around town, a really nice gesture which we did not expect. Overall a trip I would recommend to anyone wanting to ski in a country you would not expect to travel to. And when you go, Andrey is your choice for guide ;)
Despite not summiting, The Lenin Peak trip and the professionalism and abilities of Andrey far surpassed my best expectations. Andrey was responsible, knowledgeable, compassionate, and most of all a great person to spend 21 days with. Andrey displayed a high level of good judgement in regards to our decisions on the mountain and ensured the safety of everyone in our group at all times. I would not hesitate to use Andrey for any mountain adventure.
Andrey is a great guide. He's patient, kind and puts your safety and quality of experience first. His technical skills and knowledge are really impressive. It was also just so much fun. Can't wait to do another trip again.
It is a very nice trip within the untouched landscape of Kyrgyzstan. I highly recommend Andrey as a guide, he is a really skillful and experienced mountain guide. He takes his job very serious and calculate risks as much as possible. For this trip you need to be very fit because the first day you need to do a hike of 18km with al your gear for the week. If you are fit enough and don't mind to go back to basic then I would recommend this trip. If you are not, then Andrey has also some other trips that can fit your needs.
Erik in 't Zand
I have to say I really enjoyed the trip. Andrey is a very experienced and skilled mountain guide who took us for a very intense but also incredible trip to the Ala Archa glacier. He adapted to our preferences and informed us about the conditions where needed. I was also amazed about the beauty of the Kyrgyzstan mountain range and the opportunities it has to offer.
I climbed the Pobeda Peak with Andrey in 2011. It was something very difficult to achieve but we did it. The most difficult part of the trip was the section from the highest camp to the summit because of the altitude (more than 7000m). That was also the longest section of the climb. Andrey and I worked together up to the summit. I trusted 100% in Andrey during the climb because I knew him very well. He is a real professional climber!
Everything about the program was great: it actually was my first hike, trek and climb on a mountain! Perhaps I wasn’t physically prepared, but reaching the top of the peak was definitely the best part of the trip. I also enjoyed doing multi-pitches on the mountain, that’s something I would really like to do again. Andrey is a complete and responsible mountain guide that everybody should hire. He shares his knowledge and pushes his clients to their utmost capabilities. And the best thing is he can also take awesome pictures!
Andrey is a very professional and friendly guide. After climbing we talked a lot. I appreciate his experience in difficult Tienszan Mountain's conditions. He was very helpful during each difficulty. I climbed with him Lenin Peak in 2014, and Khan Tengri in 2016. We spent a very good time and I hope to climb with him again.
Climbing Korzhenevskaya and “Communism Peak” in Tajikistan (40 days)
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