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Climbing Korzhenevskaya and Kommunizma, 27 days Mountaineering in Tajikistan

Climbing Korzhenevskaya and Kommunizma, 27 days Mountaineering in Tajikistan
Climbing Korzhenevskaya and Kommunizma, 27 days Mountaineering in Tajikistan
Climbing Korzhenevskaya and Kommunizma, 27 days Mountaineering in Tajikistan
Climbing Korzhenevskaya and Kommunizma, 27 days Mountaineering in Tajikistan

Join IFMGA certified guide Andrey for this unbelievable 27-day mountaineering experience. Summit the 1st and 3rd highest peaks in Tajikistan!



27 Days

Jun - Sep

Very high



* Summit the 1st and 3rd highest peaks in Tajikistan and former Soviet Union

* Discover the spectacular wild beauty of this region like few can

* Enjoy helicopter rides to the start points and high quality base camp facilities


Ismoil Somoni peak and Korzhenevskaya peak are the highest and third highest peaks respectively in Tajikistan and are natural wonders of epic proportions!

Ismoil Somoni peak was previously and is still locally reffered to as Communism Peak, as this area was part of the former Soviet Union.

Both of these imposing mountains are included in the five ‘Snow Leopard’ mountains – the five highest peaks in the Soviet Union. Ascending all five peaks merits the climber the Snow Leopard award, the highest mountaineering accolade possible in the former Soviert Union.

Ismoil Somoni dominates the landscape and as with the highest peak in any region, attracts the greatest number of mountaineers attempting to reach its summit at 7,495m. The first ascent of Ismoil Somoni was made in 1933 and it continues to be a popular climb.

Korzhenevskaya peak reaches an altitude of 7105m and is located a little south of the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border. Surrounded by the Muksu river and Fortambek Glacier, it provides truly stunning scenery.

Korzhenevskaya was first ascended in 1953, then in 1972 by an all-female crew and also in 1986 for the first winter ascent.

Separated by only about 12km, both Korzhenevskaya and Somoni peaks can be accessed by the same base camp of Djergital.

We will reach our base camp on the second day and then from the third day onwards we will acclimatise and do some practice ascents befor we summit Korzhenevskaya on the 14th day.

After three rest days we will helicopter our way to our start point for Ismoil Somoni peak and hope to ascend this mountain on the 22nd day.

Our itinerary of 27 days is subject to change due to weather or other unforseen circumstances and we will make the most appropriate decisions given the current information.

You will need to be very fit to complete this trip. Previous mountaineering and mountain ascension experienced in required.

Not many people ever have the chance or the determination to summit such giant mountains. Sign up now and join me on this unforgettable and breathtaking trip mountaineering in the stunning beauty of Tajikistan!

If this trip got you excited then check out these other excursions I run in Asia: Join me on this amazing 25-days in China next to the border with Pakistan as we ascend the unbelievable Muztagh Ata peak at 7546m!

Or if you’d prefer a shorter time frame then consider this 7-days in the absolutely gorgeous Ala-Archa National Park in the Tian Shan mountain range of Kyrgyzstan!

Price includes

- Accommodation included

- Guiding fee

- Breakfast

- Lunch

- Dinner

- Transport during the trip

- Transportation start and back

- Permit and entrance fees

- Mountain guide expenses

- Luggage transfer

- Rope

- Flight to the start

- Helicopter drops as described

Price details

The helicopter ride is included in the price.


Day 1: Dushanbe

Arrival in Dushanbe, transfer and accommodation in a hotel. Overnight in Dushanbe.

Day 2: Djergital

Transfer to Djergital. Accommodation in a hotel

Day 3: Moskvina Glade

Morning flight to Moskvina glade. Overnight in BC.

Day 4: Helipad at 4500m

Site seeing, approaching to helipad 4500m

Day 5: Vorobieva Peak

Climbing to Vorobieva peak 5691m, overnight in your own tent.

Day 6: Rest Day

Day 7: Peak of Four approach

Approaching to peak of Four, overnight in your own tent

Day 8: Peak of Four

Climbing to peak of Four 6464m, same day descent to BC

Day 9 to 10: Rest Day

Day 11: Begin Korzhenevskaya

Climbing to Korzhenevskaya peak C1 5400m

Day 12: C2 6400m

Day 13: Summit

Summit 7105m, descent to C2 6400m

Day 14: Descent to BC

Day 15 to 17: Rest Days

Day 18: Helicopter in

Approaching to helipad 4500m

Day 19: Begin Isoil Somoni

Climbing to peak Kommunizma (Ismoil Somoni) C1 5600m

Day 20: Firn Glade

C2 5850m, firn glade

Day 21: 6900m

C3 6900m peak Dushanbe

Day 22: Summit

Summit push 7498m, then descent to C3 6900m

Day 23: Descent to C1 5600m

Day 24: Descent to Base Camp at 4380m

Day 25: Flight to Djergital

Morning flight to Djergital

Day 26: Dushanbe Transfer

Transfer to Dushanbe, overnight in hotel

Day 27: Departure


About the guide

Guide profile image




Mountain Guide

I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.

I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.

My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.

In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.

In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.

In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.

Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.

My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.

Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.


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What people are saying about -Andrey


Great experience in Jyrgalan Kyrgyzstan - Very competent end experienced guide. Very involved in making sure we got the best experience. A must do and highly recommend it!!


I had an awesome climb with Andrey to the summit of Peak Khan Tengri in August 2019. Andrey is a terrific guide and climbing companion. This climb was a huge challenge for me, both technically and physically. Andrey was outstanding in his focus on having a safe climb while at the same time doing everything possible to enable me to reach the summit. He showed excellent judgment and resourcefulness in planning our itinerary and making adjustments when needed. He was extraordinarily patient with my shortcomings. His friendly and engaging personality was a great benefit as well. I can honestly say, my positive experience on Khan Tengri was due in no small part to Andrey. I look forward to climbing with him again someday.


I climbed the Pobeda Peak with Andrey in 2011. It was something very difficult to achieve but we did it. The most difficult part of the trip was the section from the highest camp to the summit because of the altitude (more than 7000m). That was also the longest section of the climb. Andrey and I worked together up to the summit. I trusted 100% in Andrey during the climb because I knew him very well. He is a real professional climber!



For our rock climbing week Andrey had put together a programm which was ideally tailored to our skills. He handled everything in a very professional and trouble-free way. Under his guidance we learned a lot and gained confidence to undertake more challenging tours for ourselves in the future. At the same time, Andrey is also a really nice guy to hang out with. We had lots of fun during our tours and in the evenings. Thanks Andrey!



We were a large group of 15 guys that spend one week with Andrey and his colleagues (because of the group size we had two additional guides). Andrey is a great guide and a good organiser. From we ordered until we arrived Andrey was available on Whatsapp and responded almost imminently to all our questions. When we landed we were meet by Andrey at the airport and a fleet of large SUV`s that took us to the base camp that was the starting point from the touring. The base camp was located far up in the mountains on the Kazakhstan border. The accommodations where ok, with a nice sauna as a pleasant surprise. The ski touring was nice in variated terrain. We were a bit unlucky with unstable snow conditions forcing us to ski a bit less steep than we hoped for, but the area got massive potential for nice skiing. We decided to end touring after five days in the mountain and spend the last night in Bishkek. There Andrey stepped into the role of a tourist guide and showed us around town, a really nice gesture which we did not expect. Overall a trip I would recommend to anyone wanting to ski in a country you would not expect to travel to. And when you go, Andrey is your choice for guide ;)

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