I invite you to join me on a 30-day ascent expedition to the spectacular Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105 m), in the incredible Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan.
This landlocked mountainous country in Central Asia is bordered by China to the east, Afghanistan to the south, Kyrgyzstan to the north and Uzbekistan to the west.
Peak Korzhenevskaya is one of the five Snow Leopard Peaks. The Snow Leopard Award is given to mountaineers who summit these five mountains, of 7000 m and above, in the former Soviet Union territory. And I’m a Snow Leopard! I got the award after climbing these 5 fabulous mountains. You can read about it on my profile page.
Korzhenevskaya is the third highest mountain in the Pamirs. It lies about 13 km north of Ismoil Somoni (7495 m), formerly called Communism Peak, the highest in Tajikistan. Lenin Peak (7134 m) is the second highest in the Pamir Mountains.
The most common route to climb Korzhenevskaya ascends from the south and reaches the summit ridge from the west side. However, it has been climbed from almost every direction.
Besides, as not many mountaineers come to climb Peak Korzhenevskaya every year, there are no queues on the mountain. So, we will be able to experience the virgin world of high mountains.
Technically, this is not a difficult ascent. So, if you want to try a 7000-meter climb, I think Peak Korzhanevskaya is an excellent choice. Partly because it is required for the Snow Leopard award, this mountain has been climbed many times.
After arrival in Dushanbe, the capital city of Tijikistan, we will transfer to Djirgital. The next day, a helicopter flight will take us to Base Camp, on the moraine of the Moskvina Glacier. And then, adventure begins! Take into account that although the ascent itself can be done in 21 days, the helicopter schedule makes it necessary to stay at Base Camp for 30 days (see helicopter schedule for 2018 below). A helicopter will take us back to Dushanbe on the last day.
So contact me if you want to climb Korzhenevskaya Peak. It will be an unforgettable experience! Book your trip and we will start planning this amazing ascent together.
Also, if you don’t have much time or if you are still not ready for a 7000 m ascent, you can check my 9-day mountaineering trip in Ala-Archa, in Kyrgyzstan. It’s a great opportunity to climb peaks like the Korona (4860 m), Uchitel (4560 m) and Boks (4211) in a beautiful region! I also offer a 7-day mountaineering trip in Ala-Archa.
Arrival in Dushanbe, the capital city of Tajikistan. Transfer to Djirgital.
Helicopter flight-Base Camp
Helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina glacier.
|Day 3 to 19|
Acclimatization and ascent program
Acclimatization and ascent program.
Flight to Dushanbe
Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Departure from Dushanbe
Price per person
|Group of 2||1000EUR|
- Guiding fee
- Group equipment
Skill level required
Fitness level required
Helicopter schedule Djirgital – BC- Djirgital for 2018:
July 15 (to BC)/16 (out of BC) ; 29 (to BC)/30 (out of BC)
EQUIPMENT: Backpack - 85 liters/ Sleeping bag / Sleeping pad / Harness (1) / Carabiner (4) / Jumar (1) / Crampons (1) / Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m / Ice axe / Sun glasses – 1 or 2 / Torch (headlamp) + set of spare batteries / Down jacket/parka / Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit / Polartec: jacket 200 (1) / Pants (1) / Thermal underwear – 1 suit / Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants) / Polartec gloves (1) / Overmitts (1)+ windproof (1) / Warm hat / Balaclava (1) / Warm socks -2 pairs / Socks, /Gamashi / Sun protection cream / Figure-8 descender (1) / Telescopic Sticks (poles)(1) / High altitude boots (1) / Trekking boots (1).