Mountaineering in Ala Archa 9-day trip


Join Anastasiya, an IFMGA certified mountain guide, on this mountaineering trip to the amazing Ak-Sai glacier, in the Ala Archa National Park. Come and climb peaks like the Korona (4860 m), Uchitel (4560 m) and Boks (4211)!


Tian Shan

9 Days

All year




The impressive Ak-Sai glacier lies in the Ala Archa National Park, a protected alpine area in the Tian Shan Mountains, in Kyrgyzstan. Today I invite you to join me on a 9-day mountaineering tour in this amazing area.

This famous national park is located 40 kilometers of Bishkek, the capital city of the country. It’s a fantastic spot for mountaineering.

Climbers also come to the Ak-Sai area for rock, ice and mixed climbing routes. In fact, there are more than 150 climbing routes for all levels of difficulty! Some of them, up to 1100 m.

We will meet in Bishkek and then transfer to Ala Archa National Park (2200 m). We will spend the first night in a guest house. Then, on the second day, we will trek to the Rutsek Hut (3300 m).

We will have time on the third day for some rock training, and the next day, we will climb to the Uchitel peak (4560 m). We will also practice some ice climbing on the glacier. Besides, we will climb other peaks like the Boks (4211 m) or the Korona (4860 m). We will spend an amazing 9 days!

You can check the day-by-day itinerary below this text. You will be able to enjoy from a light hiking to a route of intermediate difficulty level. And even walls for professional climbers, depending on your abilities. I can of course adapt the program based on your climbing level, the time you have available and your wishes.

So contact me if you want to go climbing in the beautiful surroundings of Ala-Archa. I will answer any questions you may have about this trip. Also, I will be happy to be your guide in Kyrgyzstan!


Day 1: Bishkek-Alplager National Park (2200 m)

Arrival in Bishkek. Buying food and transfer to Alplager National Park (2200 m, 1 h). Accommodation in guest house.

Day 2: Trek to Rutsek Hut (3300 m)

Trekking to Rutsek hut (3300 m, 4-6 h). Preparing equipment.

Day 3: Rock training

Rock training near the hut. I need to know what is your rope and equipment management ability. *It’s also possible to organize training on day 2 and go for Uchitel on day 3, in case you don’t need time to acclimatise.

Day 4: Trek to Uchitel peak (4560 m), 1B

Day 5: Ice training

Ice training on the glacier (20-40 minutes from the hut). Crampons technique, climbing with 1 and 2 ice-tools.

Day 6: Climbing Boks or Rutsek Peak

Depending on your wishes and abilites, we can climb either Boks peak (4211 m), 2B or Rutsek peak(3870 m)

Day 7: Korona Hut-Crevasse rescue training

Trekking to Korona hut (3840 m). Crevasse rescue training. (about 2.30 to 3.30 hours)

Day 8: Korona 1st Tower or Iziskatel

We will climb to Korona 1 st tower (4860 m),3A, or to  Iziskatel peak (4400 m), 3B. Then, we will go back either to Korona hut or to Rutcek hut.

Day 9: Alplager-Bishkek

Descent to the Alplager (2200 m). Back to Bishkek.




Guest house and huts

More info

Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of 30.000 EUR.

Please find here the equipment you should with you. - For climbing climbing: * Alpine boots * 14-point ice climbing crampons * 2 technical ice tools * Helmet * Harness * Belay/rappel device/ATC * 2 regular caribiners * 6 locking caribiners * 2 prussiks * Personal pro * Waterproof climbing jacket/pants * Puffy (down Jacket) * 60L Backpack + rain cover * First Aid Kit * 3-4 gloves (warm + light) * headlamp + batteries

  • Camping/Personal:
    • Sleeping bag for -20C(comfort temperature)
    • Sleeping pad
    • Hat
    • Sunglasses
    • Sunscreen
    • Other clothing
    • hiking sticks
    • gaiters

If you do not have something from this list , please write to me and I try to find it for rent (except mountain boots).

Meeting point

Bishkek. I can help you organizing the transfer from the airport if you want. The transfer from airport to Bishkek is not included in the price.


About the guide

I'm an IFMGA-certified guide from Kyrgyzstan and started guiding professionally in 2003. In my 14 years of guiding, I worked as a high altitude and technical mountain guide, trekking and hiking guide, ski-touring guide and ice and rock climbing gide.

I finished Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan and I am a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA).

Additionally, I am ”Snow Leopard”. This title is given to those who have climbed all the highest mountains in the former Soviet Union. These include: Lenin peak (7134 m) 2 ascents, Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) 2 ascents, Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m) 1 ascent, Communism peak (7495 m)1 ascent, Pobeda peak (7439 m)1 ascent.

I have worked all over the Tian-Shan and Pamir ranges. I worked as a guide in Lyallak and Dugoba, in Alla Archa National Park and Suusamyr Valley, Terskey Ala Too and Kyngei-Ala Too.

As a mountain guide, my top 3 priorities are: 1 -safety, 2 –creating positive experiences for my clients and 3 -expedition success.

I am a mountaineer and really love the mountains so I also spend all my free time here. I have participated in expeditions in the Himalayas, Africa, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Patagonia and Russia.

I live and work in a beautiful mountainous country and I will be glad to show you the virgin beauty of the Kyrgyz mountains.

What people are saying about this trip

Prices per person

Group of 1

EUR 1031 Each

Group of 2

EUR 619 Each

Group of 3

EUR 464 Each

Group of 4

EUR 413 Each

Group of 5

EUR 361 Each

Group of 7

EUR 361 Each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

Price details

The Price doesn't include the transfer fees.




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