Climb Lenin Peak from Osh in Kyrgyzstan, 23 days

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Join IFMGA-certified guide Grigory on this 23-day expedition and climb Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan, one of the most accesible 7000-meter peaks to climb in the world.

Private and Group

Pamir

23 Days

Jul, Aug

Fit

Intermediate


Highlights

  • Climb one of the less technical 7000m peaks in the world!
  • Discover wild landscapes and the unique nomadic culture
  • Join a local experienced guide and reach the summit of Lenin Peak

Description

Join me on this 23-day expedition and climb Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan, starting from the city of Osh. I will guide you to the summit of this impressive peak in the Trans-Alay Range of the Pamir Mountains.

Lenin Peak is considered one of the most accessible over 7000-meter mountains to climb, despite its high altitude, attracting mountaineers from all over the world every season for its moderate technical difficulty. However, the ascent shouldn’t be underestimated at this altitude.

The peak lies on the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and it is one of the highest mountains in the former Soviet Union. This trip is also a great opportunity to discover the unique way of life of the very much alive nomadic culture in this region.

This 23-day expedition will take us to the summit, giving us enough time for acclimatization, a must for mountains this high. I will organize the logistics, food, camping equipment, and permits for you to experience a great mountaineering trip.

From Osh, we will head to the Pamir Base Camp, located in a beautiful glade at 3600m (9842 ft.), in alpine meadows between two steep river valleys. Then we will climb up to Camp 1, at 4400 meters (14435.7 ft.) of altitude. After some acclimatization climbs, we will tackle the summit of this amazing peak.

Keep in mind that to join this program you will need to have some prior climbing experience on 5000m peaks. However, this is not a technical climb. Contact me about any doubts that you may have and I will be happy to answer your questions.

So, would you like to join me on this Lenin Peak ascent? Then just check the date below and book your place. Get ready for an unforgettable mountaineering experience in the remote Pamir Mountains of Kyrgyzstan!

*Images courtesy of Andrey Zinchenko.

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival

Arriving to Osh, accommodation at a local hotel.

Day 2: Pamir Base Camp

Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Pamir” (3600 m). Accommodation in Pamir BC.

Day 3: Petrovsky Peak Acclimatization Climb

Breakfast, medical check. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky peak ridge. We ascent until we reach snow line at a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, you will see a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash tract. We return to Base Camp for dinner, take some rest, and start our preparations for trekking to Camp 1.

Day 4: Camp 1 (4400 m)

Breakfast, trekking to Camp 1. You may take a horse to carry your luggage (for an additional fee). It takes 1 hour on foot to get from BC to «Lukovaya Polyana». Then, you take a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1. The total walk will take around 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Day 5: Acclimatization climb to 4700m

Acclimatization climb to the viewpoint on 4700. Descend to Camp 1. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Day 6: Yukhin peak 5100 m

Ascent to Yuhin Peak. Climbing there is not very technical and you won’t need any special equipment. Overnight in the setup camp on the top of Yukhin peak. Night in tents. Self-cooking.

Day 7: Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m)

Breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). We take some Rest and prepare everything for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m). Self-cooking.

Day 8: Rest day

Rest day in Camp 1.Preparation for trekking to Camp 2.

Day 9: Climb to Camp 2 (5300 m)

From Camp1 to Camp2 climbers leave one hour before sunrise to avoid heat and wet snow. All dangerous and difficult parts are equipped with fixed ropes. In the upper part, the route goes to an ice plateau called «Skovorodka» (frying pan). It takes 7-9 hours to cross the plateau and get to the 5300 m point. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.

Day 10: Accent to Camp 3 (6100 m)

We have some breakfast and start climbing in a roped team with crampons on. Our goal is to reach the steep slopes of the Razdelnaya peak. Camp3 is located on the spaciousdome of the peak at 6100 m point. It should take about 4-6 hours to get from Camp2 to Camp3. After lunch, we will go higher to the viewpoint, where you can see Korzherenvskaya peak and Communism peak. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

Day 11: Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m)

Early in the morning, we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk with crampons on and in a roped team. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, we go down to the Base camp and have our dinner at the base camp.

Day 12 to 13: Rest Days. Prepare for the ascent.

Rest at the Base Camp.

Day 14: Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m)

You should be climbing with less effort and much faster with proper acclimatization. We have dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Day 15: Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m)

Camp 1 – Camp2. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.

Day 16: Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m)

Camp 2-Camp 3. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Prepare for the summit.

Day 17: Summit day

We have to leave Camp 3 before the sunrise. We walk in a roped team with crampons on. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the ridge of Lenin Peak. We will cross steep(45 degrees) icy slope called a “knife” and pass between the rocks. The route crosses the “plateau of skydivers” and goes to the rocks. There are no obvious directions and it is easy to get lost in whiteout conditions. On the very top of the peak, you will find asmall Lenin sculpture.There is one important safety rule: 2 PM is a turning point! If you have not reached the summit by this time, you must immediately start descending to Camp3!Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m). Self-cooking.

Day 18: Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m)

Early in the morning, we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk in a roped team with crampons on and have our lunch at Camp 1. Rest (cooking service included).

Day 19: Descent to Base Camp (3600 m)

Descent to Base Camp. You can hire a horse to carry your gear (extra charge). Сelebration in Base Camp.

Day 20 to 21: Reserve days

Reserve days in case of bad weather.

Day 22: Transfer BC “Achik-Tash” – Osh. Hotel accommodation.

After breakfast, we transfer to Osh city. You will have a lunchbox for lunch. Stay in the hotel in Osh.

Day 23: Transfer to the airport. Departure.

 

Photos


Equipment you will need to bring

Other gear: Personal gear: Down jacket with a hood, large enough to put on over a fleece jacket Warm fleece / Softshell Long sleeve warm thermal underwear shirt Long sleeve underwear shirt (Light/medium) Waterproof and breathable jacket with hood (Gore-Tex is strongly recommended) T-shirts Fleece or Softshell pants (with full side zips to allow ventilation) Two pairs of long underwear pants (one light and one medium-warm) Waterproof and breathable pants (or bib pants) with full side zips for easy putting on and taking off Trekking pants Shorts Socks2-3 pairs 3 pairs of thermal socks (medium-heavy thickness) Hat with a brim (best option) or bandana or cap Climbing (double or triple) high-altitude expedition boots Lightweight trekking boots Sandals for Osh and Base camp 2 pairs of Softshell gloves High-altitude warm mittens Thick hat (Softshell or fleece) Warm Balaclava or Buff (face protection) Glacier glasses Ski mask (4+ level) Extra pair of your ordinary glasses (if you wear them) Other Gear: Down or hollow fiber filled sleeping bag good for -15-20 degrees Celsius Sleeping pad, either a Therm-a-Rest or a closed-cell foam pad Headlamp with extra 2 sets of batteries Water bottle 1 liter (with insulators) Thermos 1 liter Backpack 60-80 liters Additional: one-day pack 40-50 liters (should be big enough to hold two liters’ thermos, a snack, extra clothing, and a camera for the summit day) – or you can use a big one. Sunscreen (SPF 50+) Your specific first aid kit Lip balm (SPF 25+) Favorite lightweight snacks, vitamins, isotonic Personal mug, spoon, plate. Additional: personal jet-boil or stove and pot (if you prefer to have your own). Technical Gear: Ice ax 60-70 cm Telescopic ski poles Crampons (well-fitting, preferably “step-in”) Gaiters Harness Leash with 2 rope ends (Y-form) 3 Binners Belay (rappel) device Helmet (Attention! During transporting in luggage helmet may be damaged, we recommend you to carry it in hand baggage)


About the guide

Grigory is a passionate and experienced KMGA/IFMGA/UIAGM guide with plenty of mountaineering under his belt. He has a Russian sports master which he acquired in 2006, he was the 2007 Moscow Mountaineering Champion and has guided since 2008 in Nepal, the Caucasus, Tien Shen range, Alps, and more. He is also a Certified Alpine Ski instructor since 2014 and has an Avalanche Rescue certificate from the Russian Association of Mountain Guides.


What people are saying about Grigory Kochetkov


Prices per person

Group of 1

EUR 3403 Each

Group of 2

EUR 3403 Each

Group of 3

EUR 3403 Each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation included

- Transport during the trip

- Breakfast

- Lunch

- Dinner

- Camping equipment tents

- Camping equipment cooking utensils

Price details

INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:

Accommodation in Osh – 2 nights in a local hotel with breakfast. Double room accommodation. Accommodation in the mountains. Single accommodation in Base Camp (in tents). Or you can choose a shared room in a hut. In High Camps accommodation in double tents. In Base Camp: Café – dining room, WC, storage, hot shower, electricity.

Meals – full board in mountains. Breakfast in the hotel. Cooking set (1 per tent). Gas for stoves.

Guide services 1 guide for 3 climbers.

First aid and medical consultation.

NOT INCLUDED:

Kyrgyz visa.

Horses to Camp 1.

Porters to High Camps (personal gear transportation within Camp 1- Camp 2 -Camp 3 and back way).

Beverages and meals not included in the main menu.

All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.).

Single hotel accommodation

All changes in the main itinerary and extra services.




 

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