Lenin Peak Guided Expedition

Upon arrival in Osh, you will be greeted by our representative. Once all participants have gathered, the group will travel to Achyk-Tash Base Camp, crossing two scenic mountain passes along the way.

The drive takes approximately 5 to 7 hours and offers stunning landscapes as an introduction to the expedition.

At the base camp, the camp manager or administrator will welcome you, help you settle in, and share all essential information. You will also meet the rest of the group and the guides.

After breakfast, you will take a light acclimatization walk around the camp to help your body adjust gradually to the altitude. You will also check your high-altitude equipment with the guides. A gear rental shop is available at Base Camp, but reservations must be made in advance.

After breakfast, you will set out on an acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky Peak. The route climbs to the snow line and reaches an altitude of around 4,000 meters. From the ridge, you will enjoy sweeping views of the Alay Valley and the Achyk-Tash Gorge. You will then return to Base Camp for lunch and rest before the trek to Camp 1.

After breakfast, you will begin the climb to Camp 1. Your luggage can be transported on horseback for an additional fee. From Base Camp, it is about a one-hour walk to Lukovaya Polyana, although transport is also available. From there, the route continues along a good trail through Traveler’s Pass and across the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin Glacier.

Camp 1 is reached in roughly 4 to 5 hours. It is located on a moraine, and a river must be crossed before arrival.

After breakfast, you will head out for Yukhin Peak or Domashniy Peak. No technical climbing skills or special equipment are required for this acclimatization ascent. You will return to Camp 1 for the night.

In the morning, you will take part in glacier training. This includes movement on the glacier, rope-team techniques, self-rescue skills, and practice in rescuing someone from a crevasse. You will also prepare for the climb and organize all the equipment needed for the ascent to Camp 2 at 5300 m.

You will leave Camp 1 about an hour before dawn to avoid heat and soft snow. After crossing the moraine and reaching the base of the northern slope, you will move in crampons and as part of a rope team. The route continues up the steep northern face, to the left of the icefall, where many crevasses lie ahead.

The most difficult and exposed sections are fixed with ropes. Higher up, the route turns right onto the wide ice plateau known as Skovorodka, which is crossed from left to right. Camp 2 is located on a surface moraine at the foot of the northwest ridge at 5300 m. The ascent usually takes 7 to 9 hours. Overnight is in tents at Camp 2, with self-catering.

You will start at 9:00 a.m. and move in crampons and as a rope team. After a steep initial section, the route eases onto the northwest ridge. It then continues left along the ridge to the steep rise of Razdelnaya Peak. Camp 3 is located on the broad summit dome at 6100 m.

The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 takes around 4 to 6 hours. Overnight is in tents at Camp 3, with self-catering.

Early in the morning, you will begin descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1, using crampons and rope-team travel. After arriving at Camp 1, you will have lunch there and then continue down to Achyk-Tash Base Camp. In the evening, you will have dinner at Base Camp and rest after the long descent.

This day is reserved for rest at Base Camp and preparation for the next part of the route.

You will remain at Base Camp for rest and additional climbing preparation.

After acclimatization, the climb becomes easier and faster, allowing you to reach Camp 1 at a more relaxed pace and prepare for the next stage of the route.

You will start at 9:00 a.m. Right after leaving camp, there is a steep climb up to the ridge. The route then continues along a broad ridge before a final steep rise to Razdelnaya Peak. Movement is in crampons and as a rope team. The climb usually takes 4 to 6 hours.

With acclimatization, it becomes easier and less demanding. Overnight is at Camp 3, with self-catering, and summit preparation continues.

You will leave Camp 3 before dawn and move in crampons. From the camp, you descend to the saddle and then climb the steep slope leading to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. Staying on the left side of the ridge, you continue toward the summit.

After crossing the steep 80-meter ice section known as “The Knife,” and passing between the rocks, the route leads across the broad snowfield called “Parachutists’ Plateau” before reaching the rocky slopes around the summit. Navigation can be difficult here, especially in poor visibility. A small bust of Lenin marks the top.

For safety, if the summit has not been reached by 2:00 p.m., you must begin your descent immediately.

Early in the morning, you will start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1, using crampons and rope teams. After arriving at Camp 1, you will have lunch and time to rest.

You will head back to Base Camp. Cargo can be transported by horse for an additional fee. An awards ceremony for climbers will be held at Base Camp.

This is a reserve day in case of bad weather.

After breakfast, you will transfer back to Osh city. A lunchbox will be provided for the journey. Upon arrival, you will check into the hotel and have time to relax.

The driver will pick you up from the hotel at the scheduled time and take you to the airport for your flight.