People per Guide
Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
Type of Trip
I invite you to discover a fantastic mountaineering spot in Kyrgyzstan: the Ak-Sai glacier! It lies in the Ala Archa National Park, 40 kilometers of Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan.
I propose a 7-day program, climbing some of the amazing peaks of this area!
The Ala Archa National Park is located on the Tian Shan mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. One of its most famous spots is the impressive gorge of the Ala Archa River.
Besides, mountaineers from all over the world come to the Ak-Sai area for its more than 150 climbing routes. It offers options for all levels, from beginners to experienced climbers, for rock, ice and mixed routes.
Also, the Ak-Sai icefall is a perfect location for ice climbing lessons, after just 30 minutes walking we will find different ice routes for the classes. We find there ice falls for every level, for ice climbing beginners as well as for more experienced climbers. 3 hours walk from the Ak-Sai hut we will find other ice routes, from 5 to 16 pitches.
We will meet in Bishkek. Before climbing some peaks, I will give you some ice climbing training. Depending on your abilities, it will be 1 or 2 days covering the following:
- Ice climbing and ice tools technique
- Double rope technique
- Ice fifi technique
- Belay technique
- Moving together technique
- Leading and following technique
- How to move on ice terrain while climbing
- Jumaring with 1 and 2 jumars,
- How to make belay stations on the ice
- Different tips of belay stations
- Quick ice rappeling
Then, the following days we will climb the Korona peak (4810 m) and the Baichechekei (4515 m) peak. You can check the day-by-day itinerary below this text. Of course we can change this program depending on your level, the time you have available and your wishes.
So, want to be part of this mountaineering adventure in Ala Archa? Then contact me and I will give you more information! I also offer a 9-day mountaineering trip to Ala-Archa, including the ascent of other peaks. Check it out!
Price per person
- Guiding fee
- Permit and entrance fees
What happens if I need to cancel the trip?
If you decide to cancel, you’ll get a 100% refund (minus fees) if the cancellation is notified up to 60 days before the start of the tour, a 75% refund (minus fees) if you cancel between 59 and 30 days before the start of the tour, and a 50% refund if you cancel between 29 and 21 days before the start of the tour. If you cancel less than 21 days before the first day of the tour, you won’t receive a refund.Take into account, however, that if accommodation, flights or transfers were included in the trip you booked, then a different policy may apply as the guide will be bound by the provider’s cancellation policy.
What happens if the guide cancels the trip because of bad weather/unsuitable conditions?
If bad weather or unsuitable conditions force the guide to cancel the trip, he or she will: a) propose a similar activity at a different place where conditions are better, or b) propose to postpone the activity until a later date, or c) cancel. If you refuse option a), our cancellation policy will apply. Please note, however, that the call to cancel a trip due to bad weather can only be made by the guide (not the client).
What happens if the guide doesn’t show up or cancels for personal reasons?
If the guide cancels for reason of injury or other, you will get a 100% refund on your trip.
Bishkek-Ala Archa-Ak-Sai hut
Bishkek –Ala –Archa by car. Hiking to Ak-Sai hut. (4-8 hours)
Day 2 to 3:
Ice climbing training
Ice training: ice climbing technique; double rope technique; ice tools technique; ice fifi technique; belay technique; moving together technique; leading and following technique; how to move on ice terrain while climbing; jumaring with 1 and 2 jumars; how to make belay stations on the ice; different types of belay stations and quick ice rappeling. If you are good at ice climbing, we can spend only one day for this class.
Korona peak ascent (4810 m)
Ascent to Korona Peak (6 ice pitches). It will take us about 8-12 hours.
Rest and preparation for next ascent
Half day rest and half day preparation for the next ascent.
Acent to Baichehekei peak (4515 m)
Baichechekei (4515 m) ascent (10 ice pitches). It will take us about 10-14 hours.
- Day 7: Descent to Bishkek
Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of 30.000 EUR.
About the Guide
I'm an IFMGA-certified guide from Kyrgyzstan and started guiding professionally in 2003. In my 14 years of guiding, I worked as a high altitude and technical mountain guide, trekking and hiking guide, ski-touring guide and ice and rock climbing gide.
I finished Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan and I am a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA).
Additionally, I am ”Snow Leopard”. This title is given to those who have climbed all the highest mountains in the former Soviet Union. These include: Lenin peak (7134 m) 2 ascents, Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) 2 ascents, Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m) 1 ascent, Communism peak (7495 m)1 ascent, Pobeda peak (7439 m)1 ascent.
I have worked all over the Tian-Shan and Pamir ranges. I worked as a guide in Lyallak and Dugoba, in Alla Archa National Park and Suusamyr Valley, Terskey Ala Too and Kyngei-Ala Too.
As a mountain guide, my top 3 priorities are: 1 -safety, 2 –creating positive experiences for my clients and 3 -expedition success.
I am a mountaineer and really love the mountains so I also spend all my free time here. I have participated in expeditions in the Himalayas, Africa, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Patagonia and Russia.
I live and work in a beautiful mountainous country and I will be glad to show you the virgin beauty of the Kyrgyz mountains.
What People Say about this Trip