Khan Tengri and Lenin Peak Climbing Expedition

Breakfast, medical check. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky peak ridge. We ascent until
we reach snow line at a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, you will see a breathtaking
view of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash tract. We return to Base Camp for dinner, take
some rest, and start our preparations for trekking to Camp 1.

Breakfast, trekking to Camp 1. You may take a horse to carry your luggage (for an
additional fee). It takes 1 hour on foot to get from BC to «Lukovaya Polyana». Then, you
take a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the Lenin
glacier to Camp 1. The total walk will take around 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a
moraine. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Acclimatization climb to the viewpoint on 4700. Descend to Camp 1. Dinner and night at
Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Ascent to Yuhin Peak. Climbing there is not very technical and you won’t need any
special equipment. Overnight in the setup camp on the top of Yukhin peak. Night in tents. Self-cooking.

Breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). We take some Rest and prepare everything for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m). Self-cooking.

From Camp1 to Camp2 climbers leave one hour before sunrise to avoid heat and wet
snow. All dangerous and difficult parts are equipped with fixed ropes. In the upper part of the route goes to an ice plateau called «Skovorodka» (frying pan). It takes 7-9 hours to
cross the plateau and get to the 5300 m point. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.

We have some breakfast and start climbing in roped team with crampons on. Our goal
is to reach the steep slopes of Razdelnaya peak. Camp3 is located on the spacious
dome of the peak at 6100 m point. It should take about 4-6 hours to get from Camp2 to Camp3. After lunch, we will go higher to the viewpoint, where you can see Korzherenvskaya peak and Communism peak. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk with
crampons on and in the roped team. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, we go down to the Base
camp and have our dinner at the base camp.

You should be climbing with less effort and much faster with proper acclimatization. We
have dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Camp 1 – Camp2. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.

Camp 2-Camp 3. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Prepare for the summit.

We have to leave Camp 3 before sunrise. We walk in roped team with crampons on. Go
down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the ridge of Lenin Peak. We will cross steep
(45 degrees) icy slope called a “knife” and pass between the rocks. The route crosses
the “plateau of skydivers” and goes to the rocks. There are no obvious directions and it

is easy to get lost in white out conditions. On the very top of the peak you will find a
small Lenin sculpture.
There is one important safety rule: 2 PM is a turning point! If you have not reached the
summit by this time, you must immediately start descending to Camp3!
Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m). Self-cooking.

Early in the morning, we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk in roped
team with crampons on and have our lunch at Camp 1. Rest (cooking service included).

Descent to Base Camp. You can hire a horse to carry your gear (extra charge).
Сelebration in Base Camp.

After breakfast, we transfer to Osh city. You will have a lunchbox for lunch. Stay in the
hotel in Osh.

Overnight at a hotel.

Transfer to the Tamga village on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul. Overnight in a hotel on
the shore of Lake Issyk-kul.

Transfer to Karkara camp. Lunch. Accommodation in tents.

Breakfast. Helicopter flight to the Northern Inylchek Base Camp at an altitude of 4000
meters. Accommodation in tents. Supper.

Preparation and check of equipment, a walk on the glacier before the start of the ascent to Camp 1.

Breakfast, then, ascent to Camp 1 at an altitude of 4500 meters. Setting up camp, dinner,
overnight in tents.

Early ascent to Camp 2 at an altitude of 5600 meters. The route follows a snowy ridge with sections of rocks, sometimes vertical. One of the most difficult days on the ascent.

Ascent to the Chapaev Peak 6100 m. and descent to the Saddle to Camp 3. (5900 m.)
Overnight in tents.

Summit day. Early start.  2 pm is a turning point – you
must reach the summit or start your descent to get down before dark.

Departure to Karkara Camp.

Transfer to Bishkek. Overnight at the hotel. Dinner at the restaurant.