Join IFMGA guide, Grigory, on an unforgettable high mountain adventure in Kyrgyzstan. Enjoy an amazing Razdelnaya and Khan Tengri climbing expedition and create memories that you will never forget!
Tian Shan, Pamir
Join a unique Razdelnaya and Khan Tengri climbing expedition and put your mountain skills to test on a unique adventure in Kyrgyzstan!
At 6148 m., Razdelanaya is a lesser-known peak in the Pamir Mountains, but a perfect one for beginner high-altitude explorers. It is also our first summit objective on this program. Once the Raz is tackled we move on to bigger and a lot harder things as we attempt the Khan Tengri summit, at an altitude of 7,010 m in the Tian Shan range. Sound like something you might be interested in?
Our expedition will take place over the course of 26 days. We will set off from Osh and spend some time acclimatizing before tackling each summit. You can find a detailed itinerary below.
Keep in mind that you will need prior experience climbing 5000m peaks. Additionally, mountain climbing techniques are necessary to tackle Khan Tengri especially. Of course, a good fitness level is a must.
So, are you ready for a unique mountaineering expedition in Kyrgyzstan? Then contact me today and we can start working out the details to make sure you get to the top of Razdelnaya and Khan Tengri. I look forward to guiding you!
- Guiding fee
- Accommodation included
- Transport during the trip
- Camping equipment tents
RAZDELNAYA PEAK, PRICE INCLUDED:
Accommodation in Osh – 2 nights in local hotel with breakfast. Double room
Accommodation in mountains. Single accommodation in Base Camp (in tents). Or
you can choose a shared room in a hut. In High Camps accommodation in double tents.
In Base Camp: Café – dining room, WC, storage, hot shower, electricity.
Meals – full board in mountains. Breakfast in hotel.
Cooking set (1 per tent). Gas for stoves.
Guide services 1 guide for 3 climbers.
First aid and medical consultation.
RAZDELNAYA PEAK, PRICE NOT INCLUDED
Horses to Camp 1.
Porters to High Camps (personal gear transportation within Camp 1- Camp 2 -Camp
3 and back way).
Beverages and meals not included in main menu.
All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical
Single hotel accommodation
All changes of main itinerary and extra services.
KHAN-TENGRI: THE PRICE INCLUDES
Accommodation in Bishkek – 2 nights in a hotel with breakfast. Accommodation in a
Accommodation in camps and in the mountains in double tents.
Meals-full board in the mountains. Breakfast at the hotel.
Cooking kit (1 per tent). Gas for the stove.
Guides (1 guide for 3 participants).
First aid and medical advice.
KHAN-TENGRI: THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDED
Overweight with a helicopter (more than 30 kg)
Drinks and dishes not included in the main menu.
All personal expenses (payment for additional baggage, excursions).
Medical and transport insurance.
Single accommodation in a hotel.
All changes to the main route and additional services.
Breakfast, medical check. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky peak ridge. We ascent until
we reach snow line at a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, you will see a breathtaking
view of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash tract. We return to Base Camp for dinner, take
some rest, and start our preparations for trekking to Camp 1.
Breakfast, trekking to Camp 1. You may take a horse to carry your luggage (for an
additional fee). It takes 1 hour on foot to get from BC to «Lukovaya Polyana». Then, you
take a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the Lenin
glacier to Camp 1. Total walk will take around 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a
moraine. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).
Acclimatization climb to a viewpoint on 4700. Descend to Camp 1. Dinner and night at
Camp 1 (cooking service included).
Ascent to Yuhin Peak. Climbing there is not very technical and you won’t need any
special equipment. Overnight in the setup camp on the top of Yukhin peak. Night in
Breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). We take some Rest and prepare everything for
climbing to Camp 2 (5300m). Self-cooking.
From Camp1 to Camp2 climbers leave one hour before sunrise to avoid heat and wet
snow. All dangerous and difficult parts are equipped with fixed ropes. In the upper part,
the route goes to an ice plateau called «Skovorodka» (frying pan). It takes 7-9 hours to
cross the plateau and get to the 5300 m point. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.
We have some breakfast and start climbing in roped team with crampons on. Our goal
is to reach the steep slopes of Razdelnaya peak. Camp3 is located on the spacious
dome of the peak at 6100 m point. It should take about 4-6 hours to get from Camp2 to
Camp3. After lunch, we will go higher to the viewpoint, where you can see
Korzherenvskaya peak and Communism peak. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.
Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk with
crampons on and in a roped team. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, we go down to the Base
camp and have our dinner at the base camp.
After breakfast, we transfer to Osh city. You will have a lunchbox for lunch. Stay in the
hotel in Osh.
Overnight at a hotel.
Transfer to the Tamga village on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul. Overnight in a hotel on
the shore of Lake Issyk-kul.
Transfer to Karkara camp. Lunch. Accommodation in tents.
Breakfast. Helicopter flight to the Northern Inylchek Base Camp at an altitude of 4000
meters. Accommodation in tents. Supper.
Preparation and check of equipment, a walk on the glacier before the start of the ascent
to Camp 1.
Breakfast, ascent to Camp 1 at an altitude of 4500 meters. Setting up camp, dinner,
overnight in tents.
Early ascent to Camp 2 at an altitude of 5600 meters. The route follows a snowy ridge
with sections of rocks, sometimes vertical. One of the most difficult days on the ascent.
Ascent to the Chapaev Peak 6100 m. and descent to the Saddle to Camp 3. (5900 m.)
Overnight in tents.
Summit day. Early start. 2 pm is a turning point – you
must reach the summit or start your descend to get down before dark.
Departure to Karkara Camp.
Transfer to Bishkek. Overnight at the hotel. Dinner at the restaurant.
Transfer to the airport. Flight home.
Osh – 2 nights in a local hotel with breakfast, Bishkek – 2 nights in a hotel with breakfast. Tents while in the mountain.
Other gear: Down jacket with a hood, large enough to put on over a fleece jacket Warm fleece / Softshell Long sleeve warm thermal underwear shirt Long sleeve underwear shirt (Light/medium) Waterproof and breathable jacket with hood (Gore-Tex is strongly recommended) T-shirts Fleece or Softshell pants (with full side zips to allow ventilation) Two pairs of long underwear pants (one light and one medium-warm) Waterproof and breathable pants (or bib pants) with full side zips for easy putting on and taking off Trekking pants Shorts Socks2-3 pairs 3 pairs of thermal socks (medium-heavy thickness) Hat with a brim (best option) or bandana or cap Climbing (double or triple) high-altitude expedition boots Lightweight trekking boots Sandals for Osh and Base camp 2 pairs Softshell gloves High-altitude warm mittens Thick hat (Softshell or fleece) Warm Balaclava or Buff (face protection) Glacier glasses Ski mask (4+ level) Extra pair of your ordinary glasses (if you wear them) Down or hollow fiber filled sleeping bag good for -15-20 degrees Celsius Sleeping pad, either a Therm-a-Rest or a closed-cell foam pad Headlamp with extra 2 sets of batteries Water bottle 1 liter (with insulators) Thermos 1 liter Backpack 60-80 liters Additional: one day pack 40-50 liters (should be big enough to hold two liters’ thermos, a snack, extra clothing, and a camera for the summit day) – or you can use big one. Ice ax 60-70 cm Telescopic ski poles Crampons (well-fitting, preferably “step-in”) Gaiters Harness Leash with 2 rope ends (Y-form) 3 Binners Belay (rappel) device Fixed rope ascender (joumar) Helmet (Attention! During transporting in luggage helmet may be damaged, we recommend you to carry it in hand baggage) Sunscreen (SPF 50+) Your specific first aid kit Lip balm (SPF 25+) Favorite lightweight snacks, vitamins, isotonic Personal mug, spoon, plate. Additional: personal jet-boil or stove and pot (if you prefer to have your own)
Grigory is a passionate and experienced KMGA/IFMGA/UIAGM guide with plenty of mountaineering under his belt. He has a Russian sports master which he acquired in 2006, he was the 2007 Moscow Mountaineering Champion and has guided since 2008 in Nepal, the Caucasus, Tien Shen range, Alps, and more. He is also a Certified Alpine Ski instructor since 2014 and has an Avalanche Rescue certificate from the Russian Association of Mountain Guides.
Russian | English
KMGA | IFMGA
I climbed with Anton and Maksim; both really great guys. The trip was fully private with just myself climbing. This was a very fast trip beginning in Terskol; not the huts/barrels. Maksim and I climbed up the barrels from Terskol where we met Anton. Anton and I rested about 6 hours until midnight then made a single push to the summit and back down to barrels. The entire round trip was about 23 hours. The weather was cold, snowing/sleet, lots of wind and little to no visibility. We made good time in challenging conditions. Planning and coordination of the trip was smooth and easy. Great job and great company all the way around. Thanks!
Excellent trip well planned with superb guides Have already recommended to friends who want to climb Elbrus
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