Come and experience, for newcomers and experienced, this 25-day mountaineering program in Muztagh Ata peak, the ‘Father of the Ice’. You will be in the best company with Andrey, a KMGA mountain guide from Bishkek.
Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
The Muztagh Ata peak, in the frontier with China and Pakistan, is the most popular mountain with 7546 meters to climb. Although you could do it by steep walking, I think that the climbing option is more exciting.
Moreover, it is especially perfect for those who want little bit of challenge in their lives. This is the mountain in which we get ready before going to the Everest.
The Muztagh Ata peak is so popular among tourists mainly because the route is completely covered with snow. So you may go up and down with nothing more than skis. In addition, it is close to Subashi, near the ancient Silk Road. So you can go there by car and continue by foot. There is no need of knowledge of technical climbing. While the conditions may be harsh because of the cold, it´s a good way to practice for even greater challenges.
If you want to get ready for the first of many adventures, please consider this 25-day trip. The best moment to do it is between June and September.
If you want to go to the top, having some prior experience in high altitude will be a plus. Keep in mind that the way to the top is rather easy for rookies but the deep snow and strong winds over 7000 meters can turn it into a more demanding one. However, this should not be a problem if you follow my instructions.
There is also a second route that leads us to the southern slope of the western side of the Muztagh Ata Mountain. It´s not so popular but it´s longer and less dangerous. It will take you to summit of Muztagh Ata by any of those routes, and with nothing more than skis and snowshoes.
As a professional guide with ten years of experience, I am going to be always by your side helping you to keep moving forward in order to achieve the goal.
If you find this proposal interesting, please get in touch with me and book your place. It is a mountaineering adventure you cannot miss if you’re planning to come to the China-Pakistan region.
- Guiding fee
- Accommodation included
- Transportation start and back
- Transport during the trip
- Luggage transfer
- Group porters
From the arrival in Bishkek with some time to rest, to Manas International airport, 25 km of travel. In the afternoon we transfer to Naryn city, the first stop in our journey. We will be sleeping in a guest house. All three meals included.
We leave there from Naryn to Torugart crossing the Kyrgyzstan-China border and further to Kashgar, the second stop. The accommodation will be in a hotel. All three meals included.
Transfer from Kashgar to Subashi village, the travel will take 4 to 5 hours (200 km in a bus).
We will cross the Karakorum motorway through a narrow gorge of the River Gez. The altitude at that time will be about 3900 m by the shores of Karakorum lake. We will be about 196 km from Kashgar.
You will have the opportunity to see horses, yaks and camels graze in the rich pastures.
From now on the adventure begins. We are going to sleep in yurts or tents.
All three meals included.
We will trek from Subsahi to the Base camp at Muztagh Ata peak.
At the morning we are going to drive 10km to Subashi to meet the camels that will take our equipment to base camp. With the camels carrying the equipment, we are going to trek over a plateau and then climb through the barren hills to the camp, which is approximately a 4 hour walk.
Drifts of alpine flowers cover the slopes as we approach our destination and the local marmots can often be heard calling out a welcome. Camping overnight. All three meals included.
Climbing the Muztagh Ata peak. The beginning of the ascent with more than 7000 meters high. Climbing and acclimatization in case of bad weather. Period for climbing to Muztag-Ata, which requires building and supplying three high camps. Meals are provided only at the base camp, however if climbers choose to go further they will need to bring their own food.
We are going to start the trekking from the Base camp to Subashi. Then will transfer to Kashgar and starting the return journey.
In the morning we will go down to Subashi, again our gear will be taken by the camels. At Subashim, our transport to Kashgar will be already waiting and we will arrive there in early evening. We are going back to civilization, so the accommodation will be in a Hotel. All three meals included.
For the last day of the expedition, will be doing a City tour in Kashgar. Our tour includes the tombs of Abakh Hoja Tomb, the well-known Kashgar Bazaar, the famous Mosque and the most unique old town with typical Uyghur styled homes. We will visit various shopping alleys full of noodle shops, bakeries, tea shops, blacksmiths and carpenters. Then we will get back to the hotel. All three meals included.
Transfer from Kashgar to Torugart pass, further to Naryn, by Bus. After a breakfast, we will drive to the Torugart Pass crossing the China-Kyrgyzstan border. We will transfer to Naryn and sleep in a guest house or yurt as accommodation. All three meals included.
Transfer from Naryn to Bishkek. The accommodation will be in a hotel. All three meals included.
At this point I hope you all have had one of the best adventures of your life. You will be transport to the airport and back home. Bon Voyage.
Accommodation in Guest Houses, Hotels,Yurts and Tents.
The price displayed corresponds to a trip starting and finishing in Bishkek. If you want to depart and return to Kashgar the price is 2950 USD per person.
I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.
I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.
My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.
In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.
In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.
In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.
Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.
My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.
Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.
Russian | English
KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA
Great experience in Jyrgalan Kyrgyzstan - Very competent end experienced guide. Very involved in making sure we got the best experience. A must do and highly recommend it!!
I had an awesome climb with Andrey to the summit of Peak Khan Tengri in August 2019. Andrey is a terrific guide and climbing companion. This climb was a huge challenge for me, both technically and physically. Andrey was outstanding in his focus on having a safe climb while at the same time doing everything possible to enable me to reach the summit. He showed excellent judgment and resourcefulness in planning our itinerary and making adjustments when needed. He was extraordinarily patient with my shortcomings. His friendly and engaging personality was a great benefit as well. I can honestly say, my positive experience on Khan Tengri was due in no small part to Andrey. I look forward to climbing with him again someday.
For our rock climbing week Andrey had put together a programm which was ideally tailored to our skills. He handled everything in a very professional and trouble-free way. Under his guidance we learned a lot and gained confidence to undertake more challenging tours for ourselves in the future. At the same time, Andrey is also a really nice guy to hang out with. We had lots of fun during our tours and in the evenings. Thanks Andrey!
We were a large group of 15 guys that spend one week with Andrey and his colleagues (because of the group size we had two additional guides). Andrey is a great guide and a good organiser. From we ordered until we arrived Andrey was available on Whatsapp and responded almost imminently to all our questions. When we landed we were meet by Andrey at the airport and a fleet of large SUV`s that took us to the base camp that was the starting point from the touring. The base camp was located far up in the mountains on the Kazakhstan border. The accommodations where ok, with a nice sauna as a pleasant surprise. The ski touring was nice in variated terrain. We were a bit unlucky with unstable snow conditions forcing us to ski a bit less steep than we hoped for, but the area got massive potential for nice skiing. We decided to end touring after five days in the mountain and spend the last night in Bishkek. There Andrey stepped into the role of a tourist guide and showed us around town, a really nice gesture which we did not expect. Overall a trip I would recommend to anyone wanting to ski in a country you would not expect to travel to. And when you go, Andrey is your choice for guide ;)
Despite not summiting, The Lenin Peak trip and the professionalism and abilities of Andrey far surpassed my best expectations. Andrey was responsible, knowledgeable, compassionate, and most of all a great person to spend 21 days with. Andrey displayed a high level of good judgement in regards to our decisions on the mountain and ensured the safety of everyone in our group at all times. I would not hesitate to use Andrey for any mountain adventure.
Andrey is a great guide. He's patient, kind and puts your safety and quality of experience first. His technical skills and knowledge are really impressive. It was also just so much fun. Can't wait to do another trip again.
It is a very nice trip within the untouched landscape of Kyrgyzstan. I highly recommend Andrey as a guide, he is a really skillful and experienced mountain guide. He takes his job very serious and calculate risks as much as possible. For this trip you need to be very fit because the first day you need to do a hike of 18km with al your gear for the week. If you are fit enough and don't mind to go back to basic then I would recommend this trip. If you are not, then Andrey has also some other trips that can fit your needs.
Erik in 't Zand
I have to say I really enjoyed the trip. Andrey is a very experienced and skilled mountain guide who took us for a very intense but also incredible trip to the Ala Archa glacier. He adapted to our preferences and informed us about the conditions where needed. I was also amazed about the beauty of the Kyrgyzstan mountain range and the opportunities it has to offer.
I climbed the Pobeda Peak with Andrey in 2011. It was something very difficult to achieve but we did it. The most difficult part of the trip was the section from the highest camp to the summit because of the altitude (more than 7000m). That was also the longest section of the climb. Andrey and I worked together up to the summit. I trusted 100% in Andrey during the climb because I knew him very well. He is a real professional climber!
Everything about the program was great: it actually was my first hike, trek and climb on a mountain! Perhaps I wasn’t physically prepared, but reaching the top of the peak was definitely the best part of the trip. I also enjoyed doing multi-pitches on the mountain, that’s something I would really like to do again. Andrey is a complete and responsible mountain guide that everybody should hire. He shares his knowledge and pushes his clients to their utmost capabilities. And the best thing is he can also take awesome pictures!
Andrey is a very professional and friendly guide. After climbing we talked a lot. I appreciate his experience in difficult Tienszan Mountain's conditions. He was very helpful during each difficulty. I climbed with him Lenin Peak in 2014, and Khan Tengri in 2016. We spent a very good time and I hope to climb with him again.
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