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Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan, 12-day Introductory course in the Ala Archa Gorge

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Learn the fundamentals of mountaineering with fully-qualified KMGA guide Andrey in the breathtaking Ala Archa Gorge on a 12-day introductory course.

Private

Tian Shan

12 Days

All year

Fit

Beginner


Highlights

  • Learn the vital of mountaineering in the beautiful Ala Archa National Park.
  • Improve your climbing, rope technique and safety among other things.
  • Benefit from having a fully-qualified KMGA instructor.

Description

The stunning alpine national park of Ala Archa, dominating the territory of Kyrgyzstan, offers dramatic mountain peaks, vast glaciers and picturesque waterfalls.

Amidst this stunning scenery I’ll teach you important basic rock climbing skills and guide you through your first steps of alpine climbing.

You’ll learn essential safety skills, increase your confidence in using mountaineering equipment, upgrade your knowledge of rope work and improve your ice climbing technique.

We’ll be climbing in some of the most stunning routes along the monumental Ala Archa gorge.

You’ll discover dramatic lengthy granite rock routes, ice and mixed routes as well as challenging but rewarding multi-pitch routes.

This custom-made introductory course focusses on those climbers who want to gain confidence and aim to become independent mountaineers. 

Get in touch now to reserve your place with me on a thrilling 12-day introductory course to mountaineering in the Ala Archa Gorge of Kyrgyzstan.

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation included

- Transportation start and back

- Transport during the trip

- Permit and entrance fees

- Breakfast

- Lunch

- Dinner

Price details

This is the price to join a maximum group of 14.


Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival

Arrive in Bishkek then transfer to the Ala Archa gorge. Hike to Ak-Sai gorge.

Day 2: Rock climbing

Rock climbing lessons with basic technique, as well as climbing with boots and rock shoes.

Day 3: Rope management

Rappelling and rope management, the usage of knots and rope techniques.

Day 4: Rescues

Rock rescue, anchors and base organisation, as well as transportation of injured persons.

Day 5: Trad and multi-pitch

Multi-pitch climbs and traditional climbing.

Day 6: Ratcek peak

Climb to Ratcek peak (4,010 meters).

Day 7: Ice climbing

Ice climbing and ice tool use, and crampon technique. Snow and ice anchor selection.

Day 8: Crevasse rescue

Crevasse rescue.

Day 9: Top rope ice climbing

Ice climbing with top rope.

Day 10: Teke Tor peak

  • Climb to Teke Tor peak (4,530 meters).

Day 11: Ushitel peak and Bachechekey peak

Traverse climb to Ushitel peak (4,575 meters) and Bachechekey peak (4,515 meters).

Day 12: Back to Bishkek

Descend to Ala Archa national park, then transfer to Bishkek.

 

Details

Accommodation

Light House hut.

About the guide

I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.

I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.

My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.

In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.

In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.

In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.

Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.

My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.

Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.

Languages

Russian | English

Certificates

KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA

Residence

Bishkek


What people are saying about Andrey Erokhin

Michael E.

5.00

January, 2021

Great experience in Jyrgalan Kyrgyzstan - Very competent end experienced guide. Very involved in making sure we got the best experience. A must do and highly recommend it!!

Peter Eckstrom

5.00

August, 2019

I had an awesome climb with Andrey to the summit of Peak Khan Tengri in August 2019. Andrey is a terrific guide and climbing companion. This climb was a huge challenge for me, both technically and physically. Andrey was outstanding in his focus on having a safe climb while at the same time doing everything possible to enable me to reach the summit. He showed excellent judgment and resourcefulness in planning our itinerary and making adjustments when needed. He was extraordinarily patient with my shortcomings. His friendly and engaging personality was a great benefit as well. I can honestly say, my positive experience on Khan Tengri was due in no small part to Andrey. I look forward to climbing with him again someday.

Martina Zahno

5.00

September, 2018

For our rock climbing week Andrey had put together a programm which was ideally tailored to our skills. He handled everything in a very professional and trouble-free way. Under his guidance we learned a lot and gained confidence to undertake more challenging tours for ourselves in the future. At the same time, Andrey is also a really nice guy to hang out with. We had lots of fun during our tours and in the evenings. Thanks Andrey!

Andreas Waal

5.00

March, 2018

We were a large group of 15 guys that spend one week with Andrey and his colleagues (because of the group size we had two additional guides). Andrey is a great guide and a good organiser. From we ordered until we arrived Andrey was available on Whatsapp and responded almost imminently to all our questions. When we landed we were meet by Andrey at the airport and a fleet of large SUV`s that took us to the base camp that was the starting point from the touring. The base camp was located far up in the mountains on the Kazakhstan border. The accommodations where ok, with a nice sauna as a pleasant surprise. The ski touring was nice in variated terrain. We were a bit unlucky with unstable snow conditions forcing us to ski a bit less steep than we hoped for, but the area got massive potential for nice skiing. We decided to end touring after five days in the mountain and spend the last night in Bishkek. There Andrey stepped into the role of a tourist guide and showed us around town, a really nice gesture which we did not expect. Overall a trip I would recommend to anyone wanting to ski in a country you would not expect to travel to. And when you go, Andrey is your choice for guide ;)

Jashan dhillon

5.00

September, 2017

Despite not summiting, The Lenin Peak trip and the professionalism and abilities of Andrey far surpassed my best expectations. Andrey was responsible, knowledgeable, compassionate, and most of all a great person to spend 21 days with. Andrey displayed a high level of good judgement in regards to our decisions on the mountain and ensured the safety of everyone in our group at all times. I would not hesitate to use Andrey for any mountain adventure.

Katherine

5.00

August, 2017

Andrey is a great guide. He's patient, kind and puts your safety and quality of experience first. His technical skills and knowledge are really impressive. It was also just so much fun. Can't wait to do another trip again.

Sam

5.00

May, 2017

It is a very nice trip within the untouched landscape of Kyrgyzstan. I highly recommend Andrey as a guide, he is a really skillful and experienced mountain guide. He takes his job very serious and calculate risks as much as possible. For this trip you need to be very fit because the first day you need to do a hike of 18km with al your gear for the week. If you are fit enough and don't mind to go back to basic then I would recommend this trip. If you are not, then Andrey has also some other trips that can fit your needs.

Erik in 't Zand

5.00

April, 2017

I have to say I really enjoyed the trip. Andrey is a very experienced and skilled mountain guide who took us for a very intense but also incredible trip to the Ala Archa glacier. He adapted to our preferences and informed us about the conditions where needed. I was also amazed about the beauty of the Kyrgyzstan mountain range and the opportunities it has to offer.

Dmitry

5.00

February, 2017

I climbed the Pobeda Peak with Andrey in 2011. It was something very difficult to achieve but we did it. The most difficult part of the trip was the section from the highest camp to the summit because of the altitude (more than 7000m). That was also the longest section of the climb. Andrey and I worked together up to the summit. I trusted 100% in Andrey during the climb because I knew him very well. He is a real professional climber!

Yurihahn

5.00

September, 2016

Everything about the program was great: it actually was my first hike, trek and climb on a mountain! Perhaps I wasn’t physically prepared, but reaching the top of the peak was definitely the best part of the trip. I also enjoyed doing multi-pitches on the mountain, that’s something I would really like to do again. Andrey is a complete and responsible mountain guide that everybody should hire. He shares his knowledge and pushes his clients to their utmost capabilities. And the best thing is he can also take awesome pictures!

Wojciech Falkowski

5.00

August, 2016

Andrey is a very professional and friendly guide. After climbing we talked a lot. I appreciate his experience in difficult Tienszan Mountain's conditions. He was very helpful during each difficulty. I climbed with him Lenin Peak in 2014, and Khan Tengri in 2016. We spent a very good time and I hope to climb with him again.


 

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