Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan, 12-day Introductory course in the Ala Archa Gorge

Learn the fundamentals of mountaineering with fully-qualified KMGA guide Andrey in the breathtaking Ala Archa Gorge on a 12-day introductory course.

Private

Tian Shan

12 Days

All year

High

Beginner

Highlights

Learn the vital of mountaineering in the beautiful Ala Archa National Park.
Improve your climbing, rope technique and safety among other things.
Benefit from having a fully-qualified KMGA instructor.

Description

The stunning alpine national park of Ala Archa, dominating the territory of Kyrgyzstan, offers dramatic mountain peaks, vast glaciers and picturesque waterfalls.

Amidst this stunning scenery I’ll teach you important basic rock climbing skills and guide you through your first steps of alpine climbing.

You’ll learn essential safety skills, increase your confidence in using mountaineering equipment, upgrade your knowledge of rope work and improve your ice climbing technique.

We’ll be climbing in some of the most stunning routes along the monumental Ala Archa gorge.

You’ll discover dramatic lengthy granite rock routes, ice and mixed routes as well as challenging but rewarding multi-pitch routes.

This custom-made introductory course focusses on those climbers who want to gain confidence and aim to become independent mountaineers.

Get in touch now to reserve your place with me on a thrilling 12-day introductory course to mountaineering in the Ala Archa Gorge of Kyrgyzstan.

Price includes

Accommodation included
Guiding fee
Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Transport during the trip
Transportation start and back
Permit and entrance fees

Price details

This is the price to join a maximum group of 14.

Meeting point

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival

Arrive in Bishkek then transfer to the Ala Archa gorge. Hike to Ak-Sai gorge.

Day 2: Rock climbing

Rock climbing lessons with basic technique, as well as climbing with boots and rock shoes.

Day 3: Rope management

Rappelling and rope management, the usage of knots and rope techniques.

Day 4: Rescues

Rock rescue, anchors and base organisation, as well as transportation of injured persons.

Day 5: Trad and multi-pitch

Multi-pitch climbs and traditional climbing.

Day 6: Ratcek peak

Climb to Ratcek peak (4,010 meters).

Day 7: Ice climbing

Ice climbing and ice tool use, and crampon technique. Snow and ice anchor selection.

Day 8: Crevasse rescue

Crevasse rescue.

Day 9: Top rope ice climbing

Ice climbing with top rope.

Day 10: Teke Tor peak

Climb to Teke Tor peak (4,530 meters).

Day 11: Ushitel peak and Bachechekey peak

Traverse climb to Ushitel peak (4,575 meters) and Bachechekey peak (4,515 meters).

Day 12: Back to Bishkek

Descend to Ala Archa national park, then transfer to Bishkek.

FAQs

What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?

We understand that finding the perfect place to stay is an essential part of your adventure experience. To help you with this, we’ve curated a list of three highly recommended hotels that offer comfort, convenience, and a touch of local charm. These accommodations are well-suited for adventurers looking to relax and rejuvenate after an exciting day of exploration

Plaza Hotel Bishkek Bishkek Kyrgyzstan

See rooms

Garden Hotel Bishkek Bishkek Kyrgyzstan

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Futuro Hotel Bishkek Kyrgyzstan

See rooms

About the guide

-Andrey

5.0

(11)

Mountain Guide

I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.

I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.

My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.

In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.

In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.

In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.

Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.

My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.

Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.

Languages

Russian | English

Certificates

KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA

What people are saying about -Andrey

magnus

Great experience in Jyrgalan Kyrgyzstan - Very competent end experienced guide. Very involved in making sure we got the best experience. A must do and highly recommend it!!

I had an awesome climb with Andrey to the summit of Peak Khan Tengri in August 2019. Andrey is a terrific guide and climbing companion. This climb was a huge challenge for me, both technically and physically. Andrey was outstanding in his focus on having a safe climb while at the same time doing everything possible to enable me to reach the summit. He showed excellent judgment and resourcefulness in planning our itinerary and making adjustments when needed. He was extraordinarily patient with my shortcomings. His friendly and engaging personality was a great benefit as well. I can honestly say, my positive experience on Khan Tengri was due in no small part to Andrey. I look forward to climbing with him again someday.

I climbed the Pobeda Peak with Andrey in 2011. It was something very difficult to achieve but we did it. The most difficult part of the trip was the section from the highest camp to the summit because of the altitude (more than 7000m). That was also the longest section of the climb. Andrey and I worked together up to the summit. I trusted 100% in Andrey during the climb because I knew him very well. He is a real professional climber!

Martina

For our rock climbing week Andrey had put together a programm which was ideally tailored to our skills. He handled everything in a very professional and trouble-free way. Under his guidance we learned a lot and gained confidence to undertake more challenging tours for ourselves in the future. At the same time, Andrey is also a really nice guy to hang out with. We had lots of fun during our tours and in the evenings. Thanks Andrey!