How to Start your Cotopaxi Climb?
Thinking of going on this adventure? Here’s everything you need to know for an exciting and safe mountaineering trip to Cotopaxi – the second highest (5897 m) mountain in Ecuador, and one of the highest active volcanoes in the world.
Our carefully crafted adventure combines excitement with security, giving you the chance to challenge yourself while being guided by highly experienced mountaineers.
For your Cotopaxi climb, you will need to travel to Ecuador. Normally, programs will take you to the Cotopaxi starting point from Quito (2,800 m / 9186 ft), the country’s capital.
The Cotopaxi volcano is located just 50 km (31 mi) south of Quito, in the Cotopaxi National Park, and the closest town to the volcano is actually El Pedregal (an hour hike away from the parking lot at the route starting point).
The Cotopaxi climb allows time for acclimatization and exploration of the breathtaking landscape at a comfortable pace. Since this journey is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure for many, taking the time to fully embrace both the challenge and the beauty of the climb ensures a truly memorable experience.
Additionally, our guide will keep a close eye on the weather forecast and determine if conditions are suitable for a successful summit attempt, and they are familiar with the languages, roads, and local customs.
You can exceed your boundaries while being supervised by knowledgeable mountaineers and guides thanks to our carefully planned experience, which combines excitement and safety.
Some programs may also start from Baños, Riobamba, Ambato or Machachi.
Cotopaxi is the second-highest peak in Ecuador. Photo credit: Fernando.
Cotopaxi Climbing Routes
All the Cotopaxi climbing routes are grade II (PD), but only one (the Normal Route) is used at the moment. They all start out from the José Rivas hut:
Normal Route (North)
The normal route is the way up to the Cotopaxi summit and will lead you through a snowy trail, through a glacier, and several crevasses. At an altitude of around 5400 m, you will pass the Yanasacha rock face, before a last snowy stretch to the crater summit, which you can walk around once you reach the top.
Cotopaxi rises to a towering height of 19,393 feet (5,911 meters). Photo credit: Jaime.
Rompecorazones Route
Rompecorazones translates to “heartbreaker”, and this northwest route gets this moniker because there is a stretch at the start that involves a steep 2-3 hour ascent with few resting options. It starts on the right side of the Jose Rivas hut, and crossing a deep crevasse at 5,500 m is also part of the adventure. Nowadays, it is usually used as an alternative descent route.
Yanasacha Route
Once the normal route to the top of Cotopaxi, this very scenic option is unfortunately closed. Deep crevasses and seracs have caused many accidents, and so it is no longer the main way to the Cotopaxi summit. The Yanasacha Route gets its name from the black rock wall on the way, which is sometimes visible all the way from Quito.
Cotopaxi displays the grandeur of the Andes. Photograph courtesy of Fernando.
How Long is the Ascent in Cotopaxi?
The duration of this program is generally 2 days, but keep in mind that to attempt Cotopaxi climb in 2 days you need to have a previous acclimatization.
On the 2-day itinerary, climbers usually depart from Quito on day 1, driving south through the Avenue of the Volcanoes to El Chaupi, where they will prepare their gear and have lunch.
From there, they will enter Cotopaxi National Park and hike an hour to the José Rivas Refuge (4,862m).
On day 2, the climb to the summit (5,897m) takes 6 to 8 hours, with a briefing on crampon and ice axe use at the glacier’s entrance. Climbers usually wake up at midnight to arrive at the Cotopaxi crater at 6 am.
Longer programs usually include other activities around the Cotopaxi National Park, including other ascents to nearby volcanoes or peaks.
Want to give it a shot? Try a 2-day Cotopaxi volcano ascent with certified local guide Fernando, or spend some more time in Ecuador on this 9-day Climbing program to Cotopaxi and Chimbronazo with ASEGUIM-certified guide Rafael.
Summit picture in Cotopaxi. Photo credit: Jaime.
What Lodging Options Do you Have During your Climb?
On your Cotopaxi climb, you will spend a night at the famous Jose Rivas mountain hut (4,862 m). Built back in 1971, it has a capacity for 86 people and was remodeled in 2009. It is very well-equipped including a bar, running water, electricity, large living rooms, 2 large kitchens, and lockers.
Most groups attempt the Cotopaxi summit directly from the Jose F. Rivas hut, which is about 6 hours away.
Lodge in Cotopaxi. Photo credit: Jaime.
Longer programs include spending the night in other mountain huts in the area.
What Physical Requirements Should I Meet? What's the Technical Difficulty?
Climbing Cotopaxi requires some training. Some people may find this trek easier, while others may find it much more difficult, depending on their hiking and glacier experience. Keep in mind that this ascent requires acclimatization.
The normal route is graded PD (Peu Difficile) according to the IFAS Alpine Grading system. In Cotopaxi, climbers need to be capable of walking for up to eight hours a day over multiple days. With its glaciated slopes, crevasses, and avalanche risk, the Cotopaxi Volcano is a steep mountain that requires physical preparation for ascent. It's crucial to know how to put on and utilize crampons before embarking on this journey.
Acclimatization and increasing one's capacity for long-distance hill walking—five or more hours of hiking with weight once a week—are the keys to success.
Additionally, you must train four or five days a week. It is important to supplement the longer hikes with daily training that focus on building strength and endurance. Some programs include this by attempting other peaks and volcanoes on the way to Cotopaxi; such as Pasocha (4,164 m), Rucu Pichincha (4,698 m), and North Illiniza.
Glacier traverse during Cotopaxi ascent. Photo credit: Jaime.
When is the Best Time to Climb Cotopaxi?
The weather in the area of Cotopaxi is generally good, and clear. At the beginning of winter in the Southern Hemisphere (mostly June and July) the weather tends to be dry but windy. In the summer, December and January, the weather tends to be less windy.
The volcano was first ascended on November 28, 1872, by Wilhelm Reiss and Ángel Escobar. Photo credit: Jaime.
Due to the climate conditions, climbing Cotopaxi is generally possible year-round, but December and January are considered the best months. However, the summit of Cotopaxi, a stratovolcano, was temporarily closed to climbers due to hazardous gas emissions from the crater.
This closure followed an eruption in October 2022, with the anticipated reopening date being repeatedly delayed. After an extended wait, the summit was finally reopened in March 2024.
What Essential Gear Should I Bring for this Expedition?
For your Cotopaxi climb, apart from your usual mountaineering equipment, you will need crampons, crevasse rescue gear, an ice axe, warm clothes suitable for climbing the mountain, sleeping bags, sunglasses, and headlamps.
When packing, consider warmth, low weight, and water resistance clothes. This consists of a waterproof outer shell, and a lightweight down jacket. Hiking leggings, merino base layers, gaiters, and waterproof pants are also helpful.
Regarding footwear, you will need mountaineering boots with a rigid sole, suitable for crampons.
You should always bring high-factor sunscreen and sunglasses or ski goggles because the snow reflects the sun's rays, making you vulnerable to burns at unexpected times.
Cotopaxi holds cultural significance for the local indigenous communities, who consider the volcano to be a sacred place. Photo credit: Jaime.
What's the Estimated Price?
2-day Cotopaxi climbing programs range between 280 and 590 USD. Longer programs, like those that include climbing Chimborazo or Illiniza, take between 9 and 11 days and can cost between 1500 and 3100 USD.
On top of this, you will need to consider additional costs such as international flight tickets, a hotel in Quito, tips, personal insurance, luggage insurance, and trip cancellation insurance.
Book your place on this 5-day Cotopaxi and Chimborazo program led by IFMGA-certified local guide, Jaime.
What's the Insurance recommended for climbing Cotopaxi?
When climbing Cotopaxi, you might face challenges such as extreme weather, altitude sickness, and the possibility of accidents. Along with physical preparation, it's crucial to have comprehensive rescue and evacuation insurance. Explore-Share collaborates with Global Rescue to provide climbers with specialized coverage, including emergency rescues, evacuations, and medical assistance. Prior to your ascent, ensure you have the necessary protection in place. For more details on their insurance options, visit here.
What Else Can you Do Near Cotopaxi?
Planning some activities before your Cotopaxi climb is a great idea to deal with altitude, and ensure you have good acclimatization.
Hiking: there are several programs available, from 1-day to 19-day trips.
Mountain biking: you can also jump on a bike for a tour of the Ecuadorian highlands around Quito, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo.
Backcountry skiing: attempt Ecuador’s triple crown of Nevado Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, on skis.
Visiting some of the local mountain towns, such as Otavalo (famous for its indigenous market), the colorful Cotacachi (the first South American ecological county), and Ingapirca (a town with Inca Ruins), are some of the many things you can do while in Ecuador as well.
Climbers who reach the summit can experience stunning views of the surrounding Andean landscape. Photo credit: Jaime.
So, are you ready to climb your way up to the summit of one of the most impressive active volcanoes in the world? Then head to Cotopaxi this year for an unforgettable climbing experience!
