Andrej Stremfelj - IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide


I was born in Kranj (Slovenia), and since I was a child the mountains have been my passion. I graduated in Sports at Ljubljana University and started an alpine career as a member of the Kranj Alpine Club.

In 1977, I climbed my first eight-thousander: it was a new route on Gasherbrum I. Some years later, a partner and I became the first Slovenians to ascend Mt Everest, also on a new route.

In fact, I’ve been at the top of Everest twice. The second time, I reached the summit with my wife Marija, and we were the first married couple achieving that.

Throughout my alpine career, I took part and even lead more than 20 expeditions in the Nepalese Himalayas. There, I climbed more than six peaks over eight thousand meters: two of them on new routes and three using pure alpine style. I also climbed in Patagonia, Pamir, USA, Caucasus and Scotland.

However, my major success was climbing a new route on Kangchenjunga, in alpine style and together with climber Marko Prezelj. After this, we won the prestigious mountaineering award Piolet d’Or.

I am a mountain guide since 1982 and I obtained my IFMGA license in 1997. I am also an instructor at the Slovenian Mountain Guide Association (SMGA).

I still live in Kranj with my wife and the youngest of our three children.

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