Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Nov, Dec
The Aguja Guillaumet (in English, Guillaumet Needle) is located on the Fitz Roy Cordon. Although it is one of the most accessible climbing areas, this guided ascent is only suitable for sustained climbers.
In fact, you will need a very good physical training and a vast experience in multi-pitch rock climbing as well as ice climbing. The round trip will take between 14 and 16 hours. Moreover, the altitude change will be around 1.000 meters.
This alpine climbing I am proposing today consists in 3 challenging days starting from El Chaltén. Please find here below the day-by-day program.
A transfer will take us from El Chaltén to the Eléctrico River, where we will start the hike approaching progressively to “Piedra del Fraile”. After 5 or 6 hours will reach our campsite, the Piedra Negra bivouac at 1.600 meters of altitude. During this day you will find steep terrains with some scree in the last section of the trail.
Today is the most important day: our summit attempt! Therefore, we will get up early (around 2 a.m.). First, and after a light breakfast, we start the hike in direction to the “Paso Guillaumet” (2.000 meters above sea level), along a small glacier while finding mixture of rocky and snowy terrains.
Then, once in that high pass, we’ll take the famous “Amy route”. It is the trail laying on the East face of the Aguja Guillaumet. Its slopes have an average inclination of 50°- 60°. The route continues with 4 rock climbing pitches (class IV and V, intermediate-sustained level). Finally, the trail ends with an ice ramp leading to the summit (2.574 meters of altitude). We did it!!!
For the return, we will descend by rappelling down to the beginning of the Amy Route. From there, we will hike down to the Piedra Negra bivouac again. Here we will spend the last night.
Final day in which we’ll hike back to the bridge of the Eléctrico River. There, a transfer will be waiting to take us to El Chaltén. Ending of the program.
For your information, you can choose an alternative route called “Fonrouge Ridge”. Ask me more details if you have interest in that one!
If you have more doubts or want to know next departures and booking process, please contact me now. I am waiting your message eager to guide you in this alpine climbing!
Certified UIAGM-IFMGA Mountain Guide from Argentina.
I live in El Chaltén since 1998. I'm originally from Bariloche and I started with mountain activities when I was 15 years old. I've done climbing and ascents in many mountains of Patagonia, Perú, Bolivia, United States and Europe; such as Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, Alpamayo, El Capitán, Mont Blanc and Aconcagua among others. I'm also a Ski Instructor and I am passionate for backcountry ski.
I speak fluent English, Italian and French and have been leading trips and expeditions for more than 20 years. I work together with a group of guides, so if I'm not available for the trip you request, one of my colleagues will guide you!
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