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Climbing Dychtau with a guide

Join Ivan, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, on this climbing adventure to Dychtau (5198 m), the second highest peak of the Caucasus mountain range.

Mountain RangeCaucasus
Duration10 days
Offer periodJul, Aug
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelFit
Type of tripNot specified


Join me on this amazing ascent and let’s reach the summit of Dychtau (5198m), the second highest peak of the Caucasus range after Mount Elbrus. This spectacular mountain is situated in Kabardino Balkaria, in the Russian Federation. It can be accessed from Bezengi.

Climbing Dychtau is a real challenge due to its technical level and because of the frequent avalanches. There is no easy route to the summit. The normal route now is the North Ridge, graded 4B.  It is an ascent reserved for experienced mountaineers only.  

You’ll find here below my program and the itinerary for this 8-day expedition.

Just send me a request if you want to join me on this amazing ascent. I’ll be glad to bring you up there on this challenging adventure. You could also take a look at my profile for other great mountaineering ascents!

I work together with a group of guides, so if I’m not available, one of my colleagues will guide you!



Day 1: Arrival

Arrival to Mineraly Vody airport. Transfer (6-7 hours) to Bezengi Valley via Nalchik, the capital city of the Kabardino-Balkar Republic in Russia. It is about 2,5hr drive in a regular service from Nalchik to Benzegi. Accommodation in Bezengi Camp (2,200m above the sea level).

Day 2: Acclimatization hike

Acclimatization hiking along Mizhyrgi glacier up to Uky hut (3,200m). Total time is 3,5 up/1,5 down. Return to the Bezengi Camp.

Day 3: Rock climbing training day

Training rock climbing near Camp, 5-6 pitches up and rappel down. Return to BC.

Day 4: Russian Bivouac

From the camp Bezengi walk along the Bezengi glacier and continue to Russian Bivouac (3,900m), 7-8 hours.

From Camp Bezengi, climb the path on the left lateral moraine of the Bezengi Glacier to the Misses-Kosh hut (1-2 hours). Continue along the path on the left lateral moraine of the Bezengi Glacier and after 30 min turn left by a big stone with inscription on a stone “VZSPS» and cross vegetated slopes and scree couloir (stonefall). Ascend the right side of the fairly broad scree couloir. A rognon in the upper part of the couloir is turned on the left and one continues over scree into the right hand depression of the West Ridge of Misses-Tau. From the depression, cross over to the south side of the ridge and continue as far as the icefall of a hanging glacier, which descends from Noth Ridge of Dykh-Tau.

Day 5: Bivouac “VCSPS”

From the Russian Bivouac we continue up on the North ridge and go to bivouac “VCSPS” (47500m). Night in the tent.

Day 6: Summit day

We climb up to the summit of Dychtau and hike back to the bivouac. Night in the tent.

Day 7 to 8: Reserve days

Day 9: Return to Bezengi camp

Day 10: Transfer to the airport, flight home.

About the guide

guide profile img

I'm an IFMGA-certified guide and have been guiding for the past 15 years.

I got the chance to do beautiful ascents like the Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Mont Cook, McKinley, 7000m Peaks in ex-USSR, technical climbing In the Caucasus, new climbing routes in the USA, ski-touring in Alps, Russia etc.

I'm an expert in the Elbrus region. I know every corner of it and will be happy to guide you to the summit, at 5.642m high, skiing or walking.
Please get in touch with me and let's leave together for a wonderful adventure in the incredible Caucasus mountain range!

I work together with a group of guides, so if I'm not available, one of my colleagues will guide you!

My favorite saying: "We will either find a way, or make one".

What people are saying about this trip

Prices per person

Group of 1

EUR 2595 each

Group of 2

EUR 2195 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation

- Transport during the trip

- Permit and entrance fees

- Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Price details

The price INCLUDES: invitation;

lodging in the Bezengi according to the program;

full board during stay in the Caucasus region;

all transfers in the Elbus region according to the program;

1 IFMGA-certified guide;

tents, pads, gas, stove, kitchen utensils

necessary permits and registration;

administrative fees in Kabardino-Balkaria.



luggage air transportation;

unexpected premature evacuation;

cook in Barrels or in mountain hut;

cost of visa.


personal expenses;

extra pay due to change of the appointed departure time.

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