Climbing Dychtau with a guide
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Join Ivan, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, on this climbing adventure to Dychtau (5198 m), the second highest peak of the Caucasus mountain range.
Caucasus
10 Days
Jul, Aug
High
Description
Join me on this amazing ascent and let’s reach the summit of Dychtau (5198m), the second highest peak of the Caucasus range after Mount Elbrus. This spectacular mountain is situated in Kabardino Balkaria, in the Russian Federation. It can be accessed from Bezengi.
Climbing Dychtau is a real challenge due to its technical level and because of the frequent avalanches. There is no easy route to the summit. The normal route now is the North Ridge, graded 4B. It is an ascent reserved for experienced mountaineers only.
You’ll find here below my program and the itinerary for this 8-day expedition.
Just send me a request if you want to join me on this amazing ascent. I’ll be glad to bring you up there on this challenging adventure. You could also take a look at my profile for other great mountaineering ascents!
I work together with a group of guides, so if I’m not available, one of my colleagues will guide you!
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival
Arrival to Mineraly Vody airport. Transfer (6-7 hours) to Bezengi Valley via Nalchik, the capital city of the Kabardino-Balkar Republic in Russia. It is about 2,5hr drive in a regular service from Nalchik to Benzegi. Accommodation in Bezengi Camp (2,200m above the sea level).
Day 2: Acclimatization hike
Acclimatization hiking along Mizhyrgi glacier up to Uky hut (3,200m). Total time is 3,5 up/1,5 down. Return to the Bezengi Camp.
Day 3: Rock climbing training day
Training rock climbing near Camp, 5-6 pitches up and rappel down. Return to BC.
Day 4: Russian Bivouac
From the camp Bezengi walk along the Bezengi glacier and continue to Russian Bivouac (3,900m), 7-8 hours.
From Camp Bezengi, climb the path on the left lateral moraine of the Bezengi Glacier to the Misses-Kosh hut (1-2 hours). Continue along the path on the left lateral moraine of the Bezengi Glacier and after 30 min turn left by a big stone with inscription on a stone “VZSPS» and cross vegetated slopes and scree couloir (stonefall). Ascend the right side of the fairly broad scree couloir. A rognon in the upper part of the couloir is turned on the left and one continues over scree into the right hand depression of the West Ridge of Misses-Tau. From the depression, cross over to the south side of the ridge and continue as far as the icefall of a hanging glacier, which descends from Noth Ridge of Dykh-Tau.
Day 5: Bivouac “VCSPS”
From the Russian Bivouac we continue up on the North ridge and go to bivouac “VCSPS” (47500m). Night in the tent.
Day 6: Summit day
We climb up to the summit of Dychtau and hike back to the bivouac. Night in the tent.
Day 7 to 8: Reserve days
Day 9: Return to Bezengi camp
Day 10: Transfer to the airport, flight home.
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