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Climbing Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Eiger (private program)

Come along this 12-day guided ascent to Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Eiger. Join Francis, IFMGA certified mountain guide, on this classic program in the Alps.

Mountain RangeAlps
Duration12 days
Offer periodJul, Aug, Sep
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelExtremely Fit
Type of tripPrivate

Description

The goal of this classic mountaineering and climbing program is to ascend three of the most notorious peaks in the Alps: Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Eiger. Join me on this 12-day unforgettable tour, for climbers with previous snow and rock experience.

Please note that this is a private program. Unfortunately, for the time being, I don’t have any group departures planned.

First, we will spend several days training to get your body ready to face the high altitude. On the first day, I will go over the basics of mountaineering, including: walking with crampons and handling the rope and the ice axe.

As preparation for the ascents, during the 4 first days we will go rock and ice climbing on these great areas:

  • Aiguilles Rouges (north of Chamonix)
  • Aiguille du Midi
  • Aiguille d’Entreves (one of the most beautiful spots in the Alps!)
  • Dent du Geant (4,013 m)

All along, we will have amazing views of the peaks along the Mont Blanc range as background.

On Day 5, we will reach the Gouter Hut (3,835 m). This is where we will prepare for the Mont Blanc (4,810 m) ascent on Day 6, the first summit day on the program.

Next, on Day 7 we will transfer to Zermatt and hike up to the Hornli hut. Next day, I will guide you towards our second summit: Mount Matterhorn (4,487 m).

After resting on Day 9, we will transfer to Grindelwad. Next day, we will take a train and hike up to the Mittelligi refuge. Finally, Day 11 will be our final summit day: we will ascend to the amazing Mount Eiger (3,970 m).

While the costs of lodging on a half board basis when in huts are included, hotel fees are not. This program requires one guide per guest. If needed, I will organize another IFMGA guide to join us.

Interested in Climbing Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Eiger in 12 days? Join me!

Accommodation

Hotel in Chamonix (fees not included). Huts in the mountain (included in price). I will make the reservations for you.

More info

Not included in the price: Lodging when in town - typically 4 nights Drinks and lift fees for you and the guide Lunches Personal equipment Travel to or from the course departure point of Chamonix Rescue insurance Personal Clothing: Gore-Tex (or similar breathable shell clothing) Jacket and pants or bib Gaiters Lightweight climbing pants for days on the rock. Lightweight thermal top (polypro or capilene). Lightweight fleece shirt. Fleece jacket. Windshirt or vest. Warm ski gloves w/ leather palms if possible and a shell over-mitt. Spare pair of lightweight spring gloves or wool liners. Warm hat or balaclava. Baseball cap (for the sun). Non cotton socks. Glacier glasses or good quality sun glasses that filter 100% of UV rays. Personal gear (items with * can be rented in Chamonix): Harness * w/ 2 locking 'biners and a belaying device. 2 prussik loops. 1 long sling. ice axe * also referred to as a walking axe (be sure not to buy one that is too long !). Anything over 55cm is too long Crampons * w/ anti- balling plates. Mountaineering boots *. Leather is the preferred choice. Make certain your crampons work on them ! Rock shoes *. A small rucksack 30l (2000c.i.) is plenty big enough. Headlamp w/ a new battery. Telescopic poles help distribute the weight of your pack better and take a load off you legs and back. Small compact camera (avoid bringing along an expensive 35mm). Personal first aid kit (second skin, aspirin, toilet articles). Sun block and lip cream. Water bottle 1 liter minimum with insulated cover (metal bottles are best - plastic holds bad after tastes and also mildew !). Group Gear (I supply all of this equipment) rope(s) 50m is standard length for rappels. crevasse rescue equipment (a lightweight pulley, ascender, 2 ice screws). first aid kit. repair kit. altimeter, maps, compass. radio (optional).

Meeting point

Chamonix, France. We'll arrange to meet the evening before departure.

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Photos


Itinerary

Day 1: Aiguilles Rouges

  • Rock climinbg day in the Crouche ridge
  • Overnight at Argentiere

Day 2: Midi Plan Traverse

  • Departure from Aiguille du Midi to Aiguille du Plan
  • Review of the basics of mountaineering
  • Overnight at the Torino hut (Italian side of the Mont Blanc range)

Day 3: Aiguille d'Entreves

  • Rock climbing in Aiguille d’Entreves
  • Overnight at the Torino hut

Day 4: Dent du Geant ascent

  • Ascent to the Dent du Geant (4,013 m)
  • Overnight at Argentiere

Day 5: Gouter Hut

  • Hike up to the Gouter Hut
  • Overnight at the Gouter Hut
  • Total walking time (ascent): 5 hours

Day 6: Mont Blanc ascent

  • Ascent to Mont Blanc (4,810 m)
  • Overnight at Argentiere

Day 7: Zermatt - Hornli hut

  • Transfer to Zermatt (cable cars)
  • Hike up to the Hornli hut
  • Overnight at the Hornli hut

Day 8: Mount Matterhorn ascent

  • Ascent to the Mount Matterhorn (4,478 m)
  • Overnight at Zermatt

Day 9: Rest day

  • Resting day
  • Transfer to Grindelwald
  • Overnight at Grindelwald

Day 10: Mittelligi refuge

  • Transfer to the Mitteligi refuge (3,160 m) – by train and hike
  • Overnight at the Mitteligi refugue

Day 11: Eiger ascent

  • Ascent to Eiger (3,970 m)

Day 12: Reserve day

  • Reserve day for weather or to be used for an additional adventure


About the guide

guide profile img

IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide

I am a professional mountain & ski guide. I have been guiding now since 1994. I have always been into the mountains – skiing at age 4 and secretly sneaking away for overnight bivouacs in the mountains behind my parents house. At age 13, I decided to pursue my airy scrambles for something that looked a bit more fun. I went to work as an assistant bringing out other young teenagers on exciting hiking and more importantly to me, climbing outings. One thing led to another and before I knew it my world revolved around the mountains.

At the age of 18 I moved to France to pursue my passions, later becoming actively involved with the French Alpine Club in Dijon and organizing outings and putting up climbing routes here and there in Burgundy.

In 1992, I entered the infamous ENSA or French guides school in Chamonix and became the first American to receive international certification (UIAGM/IFMGA) through this prestigious school.

Since then I have been making my living as a full time professional guide, climbing and skiing in many of the worlds great mountain ranges. I speak fluent French, some Italian and I am now learning German.

Previously I have worked as a technical consultant for Petzl, and Grivel.

If you are looking for a great adventure, skiing or climbing, please get in touch with and let's discuss about it.


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Prices per person

Group of 1

EUR 6181 each

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Price includes

• Guiding fee

• Accommodation

• Transport during the trip

• Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

Price details

• The price does not include the guide´s expenses (accommodation, meals, lift tickets, etc).


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