3-day rock climbing on the North ridge of Piz Badile in the Bregaglia mountain range together with an IFMGA mountain guide.
Our main objective is the north ridge of Piz Badile, a prominent 3300 meter peak at the border to Italy. With 800 vertical meters, 25+ pitches of perfect granite, and of homogeneous difficulty, it is considered to be one of the best climbs of its grade in the Alps. Though being sustained, it never exceeds the low 5th UIAA Grade, 5.7 US, 4 french, HS UK!
A must do for climbers who enjoy long and adventurous alpine routes of moderate difficulty and a highly prestigious tick on your list of alpine classics!
Bregaglia is the name of a mountain range in the very south-eastern part of Switzerland. Its geologically very young and solid granite features some of the finest granite climbing in the Alps – considered by many to be of equal quality as in the Mont Blanc Range. The rugged peaks offer a lot of famous long knife edged ridges which, through the rock being more sculpted than in Chamonix, are mostly of moderate difficulty.
While the mountains are not as high as in the Wallis or Chamonix, the range has a somewhat wild and remote ambiance. Moreover the Bregaglia Valley is very special in that it is home to a small cultural minority speaking rhaeto romance, a language derived from Italian and a very unique architecture of massive stone buildings with roofs covered by tiles of slate.
The Piz Badile route can be climbed in 3 days:
– 1 day for the ascent to the small Sasc Fura Hut;
– 1 long day for the climb and descent on the Italian side;
– 1 day for the way back, which can be used for an additional shorter climb.
Apart from that the trip can be extended to climb more classical routes like the north ridge of Piz Cengalo, called flatiron ridge or the Vinci ridge on the south side of Cengalo. I also recommend to add a training day on the Albigna hut to get used to the rock and be well prepared for your big goal!
Please feel free to contact me in order to discuss a taylor made program for you and enjoy a great adventure on Piz Badile !
Mountain Huts: Albigna, Sasc Fua, Gianetti and Sciora
I have been infected by the Mountain – Virus almost 25 years ago and ever since spent every free minute climbing, backcountry skiing and travelling to the world's great mountain ranges. I hold a degree in Geosciences and have been working in the field of Snow & Avalanche Research before I turned my passion into my profession. Working as a guide for me is one of the few professions where true idealism is asked for.
Picos is a small, cutting - edge guiding company run by mountain enthusiasts. Founded in 1995, we offer guided trips all over the alps and beyond, covering all sorts of climbing and skiing related activities. After several years of guiding the classical routes and well known destinations we have decided to put our focus on the original aspects of Alpinism: discovery, team spirit and pure impression of nature, which we think has become rare in many of the more popular places lately.
Consequently we run many trips to famous summits on less frequented routes or to less known summits of equal quality. In Summer we prefer clean routes to pulling on fixed ropes or clipping bolts. In Winter you will find us skinning up a couple of minutes rather than battling with the crowds from the ski-lifts. And we have successfully guided the big alpine summits using bivies instead of crowded huts.
We cultivate a direct and honest contact to our clients. Our motto is flexibility and a profound comprehension for our client's needs. For example we know well that booking a guide for a sharply defined time window implies a high risk of failure due to weather, conditions etc. To ensure you get the best chances for your individual goal, we offer a second date option with many of our trips - a quite unique feature.
If you are looking for the authentic spirit of alpine adventure we have it for you!
Florian and Arne
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Group of 1
|EUR 1433 each|
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• Guiding fee
Had a great trip with Arne, although we didn\'t do the North Ridge of the Badile due to lack of access after last year\'s rockfall. We had 3 days climbing in the Bregaglia completing multipitch rock routes on the Badile and the Cengalo. We did the classics Via Molten and Spigolo Vinci respectively. Arne is a very professional guide of few words and we got on well and had a good time. We spent 3 days at the Gianetti hut before the weather turned and we spent time in the Val di Mello climbing a couple of granite classics. The weather was marvellous as was the climbing and the scenery. Arne was, as you would expect, very knowledgeable and I always felt safe and in good hands. I had a great experience, and climbing with someone new was part of it. I would certainly consider contacting Arne again for further adventures.