Join one of the E-S Adventure Guides Italy on a unique 4-day Dufourspitze ascent from Gressoney in the Aosta Valley!
Alps
4 Days
Jun - Sep
High
Intermediate
Shared by both Italy and Switzerland, Dufourspitze is the highest peak of the Monte Rosa massif. It is 4,634 m high and a stunning spot in the Pennine Alps. On this 4-day Dufourspitze ascent, I will take you from Gressoney to its summit!
To begin our trip we will meet early in the morning in Gressoney. This beautiful little town in north-west Italy is also worth visiting if you have some extra time. Once we are all gathered, we will do a short trip briefing and an equipment check before setting off. Every day we will trek long hours. Then, in the evening, we will stay in mountain huts along the route. Day 4 will be our summit day and we will start off in the very early dawn to have time for the full ascent and return. On the way, we will enjoy stunning sights and unique mountain terrains including ridges and glaciers!
This trip has challenging parts to it. Consequently, we require you to have some prior mountaineering experience and a good level of fitness. Difficulties could be variable depending on the general conditions on the route (from PD to AD). Additionally, the final rocky ridge is not difficult but exposed, therefore, it requires adequate mountaineering skills. Furthermore, it lies at an altitude higher than 4500 m and is usually tackled with crampons as there are alternating sections of rock with others of snow or ice. For these reasons, you will also need to be confident in climbing on exposed and icy terrain, and in using crampons. Of course, throughout the adventure, you will always be able to count on us to assist you with what you need. Although you will tackle a big mountaineering challenge, the rewards will be just as great as the effort!
Are you ready for a unique ascent of the famous Dufourspitze? Then book your place now and join us on this 4-week adventure in the Alps!
After a trip briefing and equipment check early in the morning in Gressoney, we will take the lifts to Punta Indren (3,270 m). From there, we will cross Bors Glacier in the direction of the Cresta del Soldato (Soldier’s Ridge). We will climb up to a small buttress that requires a grade IV climb. An easy stretch on rocks will take us up to the peak of the Punta Giordani (4,046 m). Then, we will go down via the normal route along the Indren Glacier,and take the trail that leads to the Mantova Hut (3,498 m) or directly to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay in the chosen mountain hut.
Drop: 1,000 m Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
On day two we will set off from the hut at 4:30 am. First we will go over easy but crevassed glacier terrain, until we reach the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m). Then, a brief descent will lead us to the Colle della Fronte (4,239 m), where the Cresta Sella begins. Through mild difficulties (II-III), the rocky ridge will take us to the Eastern Lyskamm peak (4,527 m). Via the airy east ridge, we will descend to the easy track that leads to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Drop: 780 m Ascent/descent time: 4-5 hours
After breakfast, we will set out from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m) and put crampons on to climb up the glacier until we get close to Vincent Pyramid and Balmenhorn. Then, via the base of the Schwarzhorn, the Ludwigshöhe and the Parrotspitze, we will reach the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). A descending traverse under Parrotspitze will take us under the Signalkuppe; another traverse. Finally, a brief and steep final stretch will lead us to the Margherita Hut (4,554 m).
Drop: 900 m Ascent time: 4-5 hours
We will set off from the hut around 4 am. An easy glacier hike will take us to the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). Then, we will descend the Grenzgletscher until we’re under the ridge (Rey ridge) that leads to the summit. We will walk along the edge, initially on mixed terrain then entirely on rock, until we reach the summit (4,634 m). From the top we can enjoy a striking view of the whole Alpine region, including the four-thousanders of the Bernese Oberland. The descent will be via the jagged normal route, airy and spectacular, which will give us a bird’s-eye view of Monte Rosa’s impressive east face. The final, tricky section will have us climbing the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), where we will find the comfortable track that heads to the Margherita Hut. Finally, we will descend towards the cable car station on Indren Glacier.
Drop: 1,000 m Ascent/descent time: 12-14 hours
4.8
(53)
Mountain Guide
Tomas and his team of IFMGA/UIMLA-certified mountain guides & leaders and rock climbing instructors (Anna, Andrea, Elis, Enrico, Ivan, Julia, Lucia, Marika, and Oreste) are some of the top outdoor adventure professionals in Italy.
Whether you wish to climb the Gran Paradiso or go on an exciting via ferrata in the Dolomites, among other amazing options, they will be able to show you the top spots and the ropes to ensure you have an unforgettable and safe adventure.
Tomas will be your main point of contact during the booking process and will be able to help you with all the questions you have in order to make sure you receive the best possible guiding service.
Pick one of the programs featured for E-S Adventure Guides Italy and start planning an awe-inspiring experience in the mountains!
Languages
Italian | English
Certificates
UIMLA | UIAGM | IFMGA
TJ
4
Great guide, but unfortunately our trip was cut short because of the weather so we only climbed 2 days instead of 4. But that’s life. The one thing that I didn’t like so much was the portal that you have to go through in order to book the trip. It’s not very personal. I’d rather deal with one person from the start whose name you know and whom you have direct contact with. But overall I was happy with my trip and Claudio and Sylvia did a great job.
Stay up-to-date on the best adventures.