4-day Dufourspitze Ascent from Gressoney

After a trip briefing and equipment check early in the morning in Gressoney, we will take the lifts to Punta Indren (3,270 m). From there, we will cross Bors Glacier in the direction of the  Cresta del Soldato (Soldier’s Ridge). We will climb up to a small buttress that requires a grade IV climb. An easy stretch on rocks will take us up to the peak of the Punta Giordani (4,046 m). Then, we will go down via the normal route along the Indren Glacier,and  take the trail that leads to the Mantova Hut (3,498 m) or directly to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay in the chosen mountain hut.

Drop: 1,000 m Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours

On day two we will set off from the hut at 4:30 am. First we will go over easy but crevassed glacier terrain, until we reach the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m). Then, a brief descent will lead us to the Colle della Fronte (4,239 m), where the Cresta Sella begins. Through mild difficulties (II-III), the rocky ridge will take us to the Eastern Lyskamm peak (4,527 m). Via the airy east ridge, we will descend to the easy track that leads to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.

Drop: 780 m Ascent/descent time: 4-5 hours

After breakfast, we will set out from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m) and put crampons on to climb up the glacier until we get close to  Vincent Pyramid and  Balmenhorn. Then, via the base of the Schwarzhorn, the Ludwigshöhe and the Parrotspitze, we will reach the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). A descending traverse under Parrotspitze  will take us under the Signalkuppe; another traverse. Finally, a brief and steep final stretch will lead us to the Margherita Hut (4,554 m).

Drop: 900 m Ascent time: 4-5 hours

We will set off from the hut around 4 am. An easy glacier hike will take us to the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). Then, we will descend the Grenzgletscher until we’re under the ridge (Rey ridge) that leads to the summit. We will walk along the edge, initially on mixed terrain then entirely on rock, until we reach the summit (4,634 m). From the top we can enjoy a striking view of the whole Alpine region, including the four-thousanders of the Bernese Oberland. The descent will be via the jagged normal route, airy and spectacular, which will give us a bird’s-eye view of Monte Rosa’s impressive east face. The final, tricky section will have us climbing the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), where we will find the comfortable track that heads to the Margherita Hut. Finally, we will descend towards the cable car station on Indren Glacier.

Drop: 1,000 m Ascent/descent time: 12-14 hours