Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Shared by both Italy and Switzerland, Dufourspitze is the highest peak of the Monte Rosa massif. It is 4,634 m high and a stunning spot in the Pennine Alps. On this 4-day Dufourspitze ascent, I will take you from Gressoney to its summit!
To begin our trip we will meet early in the morning in Gressoney. This beautiful little town in north-west Italy is also worth visiting if you have some extra time. Once we are all gathered we will do a short trip briefing and an equipment check before setting off. Every day we will trek long hours. Then, in the evening, we will stay in mountain huts along the route. Day 4 will be our summit day and we will start off in the very early dawn to have time for the full ascent and return. On the way we will enjoy stunning sights and unique mountain terrains including ridges and glaciers!
This trip has challenging parts to it. Consequently, we require you to have some prior mountaineering experience and a good level of fitness! Throughout the journey you will always be able to count on us to assist you with what you need. Although you will tackle a big mountaineering challenge, the rewards will be just as great as the effort!
Are you ready for a unique ascent of the famous Dufourspitze? Then book your place now and join us on this 4 week adventure in the Alps!
After a trip briefing and equipment check early in the morning in Gressoney, we will take the lifts to Punta Indren (3,270 m). From there, we will cross Bors Glacier in the direction of the Cresta del Soldato (Soldier’s Ridge). We will climb up to a small buttress that requires a grade IV climb. An easy stretch on rocks will take us up to the peak of the Punta Giordani (4,046 m). Then, we will go down via the normal route along the Indren Glacier,and take the trail that leads to the Mantova Hut (3,498 m) or directly to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay in the chosen mountain hut.
Drop: 1,000 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
On day two we will set off from the hut at 4:30 am. First we will go over easy but crevassed glacier terrain, until we reach the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m). Then, a brief descent will lead us to the Colle della Fronte (4,239 m), where the Cresta Sella begins. Through mild difficulties (II-III), the rocky ridge will take us to the Eastern Lyskamm peak (4,527 m). Via the airy east ridge, we will descend to the easy track that leads to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Drop: 780 m
Ascent/descent time: 4-5 hours
After breakfast, we will set out from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m) and put crampons on to climb up the glacier until we get close to Vincent Pyramid and Balmenhorn. Then, via the base of the Schwarzhorn, the Ludwigshöhe and the Parrotspitze, we will reach the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). A descending traverse under Parrotspitze will take us under the Signalkuppe; another traverse. Finally, a brief and steep final stretch will lead us to the Margherita Hut (4,554 m).
Drop: 900 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
We will set off from the hut around 4 am. An easy glacier hike will take us to the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). Then, we will descend the Grenzgletscher until we’re under the ridge (Rey ridge) that leads to the summit. We will walk along the edge, initially on mixed terrain then entirely on rock, until we reach the summit (4,634 m). From the top we can enjoy a striking view of the whole Alpine region, including the four-thousanders of the Bernese Oberland.
The descent will be via the jagged normal route, airy and spectacular, which will give us a bird’s-eye view of Monte Rosa’s impressive east face.
The final, tricky section will have us climbing the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), where we will find the comfortable track that heads to the Margherita Hut. Finally, we will descend towards the cable car station on Indren Glacier.
Drop: 1,000 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-14 hours
8:30 am by the lifts in Staffal (Gressoney)
Founded in 2013 by Elis Martis and Silvia Pergami, PEAKSHUNTER is a team of IFMGA-certified mountain guides.
Although we all have different backgrounds and experiences, we share the same goals and projects and, more than anything, love our job and share a deep passion for the mountains.
We strive to guarantee unparalleled experiences for our clients and are constantly on the lookout for new adventures. We want to provide you with intense emotions and want to be there to share them with you. We feel we've done our job when there are big, cheesy smiles on everybody's faces at the end of the day.
We love to make your dreams come true! Determination and passion are our guiding principles and we hope to pass them on to you. We want to build strong, long-lasting relationship with our clients, based on the respect we feel for everyone who joins us in the exploration of this striking vertical world.
Alberto, Alessandro, Claudio, Maurizio, Claudio, Jacopo, Giovanni, Elis e Silvia
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