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4-day Dufourspitze Ascent from Gressoney

4-day Dufourspitze Ascent from Gressoney | undefined

Join one of the IFMGA-certified guides in the Peakshunter team on a unique 4-day Dufourspitze ascent from Gressoney in the Aosta Valley!

Alps

4 Days

Jun - Sep

High

Intermediate


Description

Shared by both Italy and Switzerland, Dufourspitze is the highest peak of the Monte Rosa massif. It is 4,634 m high and a stunning spot in the Pennine Alps. On this 4-day Dufourspitze ascent, I will take you from Gressoney to its summit!

To begin our trip we will meet early in the morning in Gressoney. This beautiful little town in north-west Italy is also worth visiting if you have some extra time. Once we are all gathered, we will do a short trip briefing and an equipment check before setting off. Every day we will trek long hours. Then, in the evening, we will stay in mountain huts along the route. Day 4 will be our summit day and we will start off in the very early dawn to have time for the full ascent and return. On the way, we will enjoy stunning sights and unique mountain terrains including ridges and glaciers!

This trip has challenging parts to it. Consequently, we require you to have some prior mountaineering experience and a good level of fitness.
Difficulties could be variable depending on the general conditions on the route (from PD to AD). Additionally, the final rocky ridge is not difficult but exposed, therefore, it requires adequate mountaineering skills.  Furthermore, it lies at an altitude higher than 4500 m and is usually tackled with crampons as there are alternating sections of rock with others of snow or ice. For these reasons, you will also need to be confident in climbing on exposed and icy terrain, and in using crampons. Of course, throughout the adventure, you will always be able to count on us to assist you with what you need. Although you will tackle a big mountaineering challenge, the rewards will be just as great as the effort!

Are you ready for a unique ascent of the famous Dufourspitze? Then book your place now and join us on this 4-week adventure in the Alps!

Price includes

- Guiding fee

Price details

Price is based on a 1 client to 1 guide ratio.

20 Euros/per person for ice axe, harness, crampons and helmet.


Itinerary

Day 1: Start of the ascent from Gressoney

After a trip briefing and equipment check early in the morning in Gressoney, we will take the lifts to Punta Indren (3,270 m). From there, we will cross Bors Glacier in the direction of the  Cresta del Soldato (Soldier’s Ridge). We will climb up to a small buttress that requires a grade IV climb. An easy stretch on rocks will take us up to the peak of the Punta Giordani (4,046 m). Then, we will go down via the normal route along the Indren Glacier,and  take the trail that leads to the Mantova Hut (3,498 m) or directly to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay in the chosen mountain hut.

Drop: 1,000 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours

Day 2: Lyskamm Peak

On day two we will set off from the hut at 4:30 am. First we will go over easy but crevassed glacier terrain, until we reach the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m). Then, a brief descent will lead us to the Colle della Fronte (4,239 m), where the Cresta Sella begins. Through mild difficulties (II-III), the rocky ridge will take us to the Eastern Lyskamm peak (4,527 m). Via the airy east ridge, we will descend to the easy track that leads to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.

Drop: 780 m
Ascent/descent time: 4-5 hours

Day 3: Capanna Gnifetti- Margherita Hut

After breakfast, we will set out from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m) and put crampons on to climb up the glacier until we get close to  Vincent Pyramid and  Balmenhorn. Then, via the base of the Schwarzhorn, the Ludwigshöhe and the Parrotspitze, we will reach the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). A descending traverse under Parrotspitze  will take us under the Signalkuppe; another traverse. Finally, a brief and steep final stretch will lead us to the Margherita Hut (4,554 m).

Drop: 900 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours

Day 4: Summit day and return

We will set off from the hut around 4 am. An easy glacier hike will take us to the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). Then, we will descend the Grenzgletscher until we’re under the ridge (Rey ridge) that leads to the summit. We will walk along the edge, initially on mixed terrain then entirely on rock, until we reach the summit (4,634 m). From the top we can enjoy a striking view of the whole Alpine region, including the four-thousanders of the Bernese Oberland.
The descent will be via the jagged normal route, airy and spectacular, which will give us a bird’s-eye view of Monte Rosa’s impressive east face.
The final, tricky section will have us climbing the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), where we will find the comfortable track that heads to the Margherita Hut. Finally, we will descend towards the cable car station on Indren Glacier.

Drop: 1,000 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-14 hours

 

About the guide

Guide profile image

-PeaksHunter

4.70

(370)

Mountain Guide

Giving and receiving smiles, seeing the satisfaction on the faces of our customers, seeking opportunities for growth, stimulating authenticity in personal and group relationships, in sharing mountaineering disciplines, fears, efforts, and moments of difficulty, which are part of the integrated with experiences, essential ingredients of every summit climb: these are our focus, our beliefs, and our most important results, as outdoor Professionals and as people who love the mountains and their work as Alpine Guides!

Founded in 2013 by Elis and Silvia, PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides is a team of IFMGA-certified Mountain Professionals and outdoor activities experts, based in the town of Aosta, not far from Courmayeur-Chamonix, on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc massif.

We live and work in the beautiful Aosta Valley region, very close to French and Swiss borders near to Geneva, Milan, and Turin international airports.

Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, Dufourspitze, Pyramide Vincent and Regina Margherita Hut, Gran Paradiso, Breithorn, Lyskamm, Castor and Pollux are only a few of several 4000 Alps summits you can climb with us: most of our team of Guides were born and grew up close to these mountains and they have explored the ascent routes several times during different seasons, with skis or crampons!

- We love our work: we plan all our trips with great commitment and deep respect for the Alpine environment, for its inhabitants, and its territories. Including local traditions in different valleys and Alpine areas.

- We love Mountain, Nature, and Outdoor activities, that we like to share with people from all around the world. We are enthusiastic to meet like-minded adventurers and share new experiences and memorable emotions with the support of our Mountain Guides.

- Safety and Risk Management are essential for us, as elements of fundamental importance during every single trip we plan and carry out with our customers: for this reason, we offer introductory courses to the different alpine disciplines (Mountaineering, Rock climbing, Ice climbing, Ski mountaineering, Freeride, Rescue Crevasse, and Avalanche) to convey awareness and responsibility to our customers.

- We offer solid Experience, with several years organizing outdoor disciplines around mountain and wild areas, in many different countries of Italy and Europe, for individuals or groups, including 7-day customer support for booking, logistics, and personal assistance for planning and reservations.

- As certified Mountain Guides, we offer training courses, to improve technical skills and to learn basic knowledge about mountaineering in the Alps, which is essential to explore and climb the Mountains safely in any situation or conditions.

- We are happy to provide customized programs for every customer's demand: our Experience is synonymous with Professionalism and Customer Care to guarantee unforgettable emotions and beautiful smiles!

Fulfill your dreams, discover breathtaking views or simply enjoy an extraordinary day: you just need to use your imagination and we will carry out your trip as you desire to live it!

Let’s plan your next mountain project together!

Certificates

IFMGA

Request more information

What people are saying about this trip

TJ

4.00

Great guide, but unfortunately our trip was cut short because of the weather so we only climbed 2 days instead of 4. But that’s life. The one thing that I didn’t like so much was the portal that you have to go through in order to book the trip. It’s not very personal. I’d rather deal with one person from the start whose name you know and whom you have direct contact with. But overall I was happy with my trip and Claudio and Sylvia did a great job.


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