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Matterhorn 2-day Ascent

Matterhorn 2-day Ascent
Matterhorn 2-day guided ascent
Matterhorn 2-day guided ascent
Matterhorn 2-day guided ascent
Matterhorn 2-day guided ascent

Follow Tobias, an IFMGA mountain guide, to the summit of the Matterhorn. Let him guide you across the most famous and iconic mountain in Europe. And enjoy some of the most mesmerizing views from the top.

Private

Alps

2 Days

Jul - Sep

High

Advanced


Description

The Matterhorn (4,478m), or Cervino, is perhaps the most famous mountain in Europe. It may be its chiseled rock pyramid shape that stands out. Or perhaps the fact that it is so iconic that it has become a landmark in the continent.

Others consider it the most beautiful. As it is surrounded by a true paradise of mountain vegetation and animals. Also, the absolute perfectly symmetry that shapes this peak, turns it into a delightful sight in the Swiss Alps. But no matter the reason for its fame, it is a must stop for every mountaineer around the world.

Also, the region that surrounds it is brimming with charming meadows and pristine terrains. What’s more, all the towns nearby, from Zermatt to other smaller ones, are equally beautiful. Additionally, many offer countless options for spending the night, luxurious inns and simple refuges. But all of them have something in common, mesmerizing views of the Matterhorn. Hence, walking through this area, is a genuine once in a lifetime pleasure, hard to pass on.  

However, it is precisely because of the shape of this peak, that it represents a big challenge. It is a technical alpine rock, snow and ice climb. The best way to reach its summit is guided by someone experienced that will also ensure your safety throughout the journey.

Good acclimatization, training and endurance are essential to reach the goal of one of the hardest mountains in Switzerland. It’s important to stay at least 3 days in Zermatt or in the surrounding huts at 3000m.  An extra training day will increase the chance of a successful climb. Activities such as running, cycling, or hiking are good preparation.

During the ascent, the lower and easy part, which is 800 meters up to Solvay must be done within 2.5 hours. As safety is always first, keep in mind that I can decide to make a turn back before the summit if I consider it appropriate.

So, if you are thinking about climbing this peak, this is the ideal trip for you! Let me guide you to the top of  Matterhorn on this expedition. Send me a request. I promise it will be a wonderful adventure!

Looking for a completely different type of adventure. I also guide this three days canyoning trip at Lake Garda in Italy.

Price includes

  • Guiding fee

Price details

  • The price includes a 1:1 ratio guide fee. It doesn’t include the price for the cable car, overnight stay for you and your guide (150CHF per person), and insurance.
  • Please note that if the conditions are unsafe to climb Matterhorn, we'll adapt the program and climb another mountain. A 2day climb of Breithorn and Riffelhorn could be one of the plan B options. If you decline the plan B option that I propose, CHF700 will be retained from what you paid.

Itinerary

Day 1: Zermatt - Hörnlihut

First, you take the cable car from Zermatt to Schwarzsee. Then, the trek goes for about two hours throug a steep hiking trail to finally reach the new Hörnlihut. We will meet at 18.00 at the hut. After dinner, we will prepare for the climb and try to sleep!

Day 2: Reaching the summit

We will start the day really early, at around 4:00 a.m., departing from Hörnlihut, heading to Hörnliridge. Here, we’ll climb for about 2 hours in darkness following our headlamps. Then, after another 2,5 hours we’ll reach the Solvay-Bivy. And after that, we’ll get to a ridge, which will lead us to the roof and an area with fixed ropes. The roof is the highest and most difficult part. Finally, after an icefield the ascent to the summit will get easier. It will take us around 4-5 hours to ascend, and about the same amount of time to descend. So, after 10 hours more less of climbing we’ll reach Hörnlihut again.

 

Details

More info

Good acclimatization, training and endurance are essential to reach the goal of one of the hardest mountains in Switzerland. It’s important to stay at least 3 to 5 days in Zermatt or in the surrounding huts at 3000m. An extra training day will increase the chance of a successful climb. Activities such as running, cycling, or hiking are good preparation.

Meeting point


Equipment you will need to bring

Crampons

Ice axe

Harness

Helmet

Headlamp


FAQs

What happens in the event of bad weather?

If conditions are unsafe for climbing the Matterhorn, we’ll adapt the program to ensure your safety. I offer flexibility to adjust the ascent day if the forecast or conditions allow, as I only schedule up to four tours per week. However, if the weather or mountain conditions remain unsuitable, we’ll switch to a plan B option, such as a 2-day climb of Breithorn and Riffelhorn. If you choose not to accept the alternative climb, CHF 700 will be retained from the amount you paid.

How can I maximize my chances to make the ascent to Matterhorn a success?

Although it is one of the great classics in the Alps, climbing Matterhorn is a difficult alpine tour. In the last 10 years, I made it to the top with more than 155 clients.

Good acclimatization, training, and endurance are key to reaching the goal. It’s essential to stay at least 5 days in Zermatt or in the surrounding huts at 3000 m to get proper acclimatization and to have some flexibility in case the weather forces us to move the ascent date. If you have more days, then it is also easier for me to change the summit day in the short term, depending on the conditions. I always try to be flexible for the summit day.

Also, a very good fitness and climbing grade 4 is required. For a safe climb in one day, it is important that you are able to do 300 meters of vertical gain per hour. The first part, up to the Solvay hut, should not take longer than 2 1/2 hours.

I also strongly suggest that you take a training day before this, so I can assess your climbing skills and see if you're ready to attempt the summit. We can practice some techniques together before climbing the Matterhorn. This is not included in this program, but we can certainly add it for an extra price.

Having only trekking experience is not sufficient for the Matterhorn; the risk is too high.

You'll find here a video that one of my previous clients took during the ascent - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP2nc_h_780 - It might give you a better idea of what it is to climb the Matterhorn.

When is it the best time to climb Matterhorn?

The best conditions are normally from the 15th of July to the beginning of September.

When do we start and finish the Matterhorn climb? Where are we going to meet?

We'll meet at the Hörnli Hut around 6 pm the day before the ascent. We'll check the equipment and have dinner. The next day, we'll start at around 4 am. We'll need 4-5 hours to climb from the hut to the top and then 4-5 hours to go back down.

What are the extra costs to cover?

The price you pay here to confirm the booking covers my guiding fee.

Please pay the deposit (25%) online and give me the rest (75%) in cash when we see each other on Matterhorn.

The cost for the hut for you and me (around 150 CHF per person) and the lift come on top of this. I'll be booking the hut for the 2 of us. You'll pay the fee when you get there. If you need to rent equipment, you can do it in one of the shops in Zermatt. I recommend "Matterhorn Sport" in Zermatt.

When should I book the Matterhorn ascent?

You should book as soon as you can. A lot of people wish to climb Matterhorn every summer, so my availabilities are very limited. I get fully booked quite quickly.

Is it possible to climb Matterhorn in June?

No. The season to climb Matterhorn is starting around July 1st when the hut opens.

How many climbers can you guide on Matterhorn?

A mountain guide can take a maximum of one client on the Matterhorn. If you plan to come with other climbers, I can reach out to my IFMGA mountain guide colleagues to arrange additional guides. These arrangements need to be made in advance, as guides are often fully booked, especially in peak season. It’s important to note that you won’t climb together as a group; each guide will adjust their pace and approach based on their individual client’s level and experience. Due to the Matterhorn’s popularity and challenging conditions, it’s not feasible to wait for each other, take breaks together, or take group photos. If one climber needs to turn back, their guide will do so with them, allowing others to continue.

How can I get to Zermatt?

You'll probably fly to Geneva or Zurich. From there, you can take a train. It takes 3 to 4 hours, from these 2 airports to Zermatt.

If you come by car, you'll need to stop and park in Täsch, which is 5 kilometers (3 miles) away from Zermatt. From there, you'll take a train (running every 15 min) or a taxi, to the village.

Do you have a list of equipment I need to have with me? Where can I rent what I'm missing?

On the pictures of my program, you'll find one showing the equipment you'll need to have with you.

After your booking, I'll share a detailed list of gear to bring with you.

Note that part of it such as b2 boots, ice axe, crampons, a helmet, a harness, etc. can be rented in the rental shops of Zermatt. I recommend you to go to "Matterhorn Sport" shop.

How can I maximize my chances of a successful Matterhorn ascent? How can I prepare effectively?

There are three key areas where you can focus your efforts to ensure you are well-prepared for a successful ascent of the Matterhorn.

  1. Acclimatization:

Spend a minimum of 3–5 days in Zermatt before attempting the climb. Engage in hiking activities to acclimatize to the altitude. Explore the surrounding huts from Zermatt, such as Rothornhut, Fluealp, Gornergrat, 3 Lakes Hike, and Berggasthaus Trift. Additionally, sleeping at an elevation of around 3000m, either at Rothornhut, Gandeghütte, or Refugio Theodul, will further aid in acclimatization.

  1. Technical Skills:

Prioritize training in a climbing gym, aiming for 5 to 10 sessions to attain at least a 5c climbing level. Outdoor climbing experiences will contribute significantly to enhancing your climbing skills. Engage in scrambling and mountaineering activities to further improve your capabilities. Consider participating in a guided training day before attempting the Matterhorn climb to gain valuable insights and confidence.

  1. Fitness:

Achieving a high fitness level is crucial for a Matterhorn ascent. Incorporate running, cycling, or swimming into your routine at least twice a week, with each session lasting a minimum of one hour. Complement these aerobic exercises with additional fitness training in the gym to build overall strength and endurance.

Can we go up the Hörnli Ridge and descend via the Lion’s Ridge?

I don’t offer the option to descend via the Lion’s Ridge after ascending the Hörnli Ridge. The Italian side has been in poor condition these past seasons, with rockfalls, maintenance issues at the hut, and overall challenges that make the descent less safe. Additionally, if any issues arise, turning back is complicated. For these reasons, I recommend and conduct the climb entirely on the Hörnli Ridge, as it provides a safer and more reliable route for both the ascent and descent.

Who handles the booking for the Hörnli Hut?

I take care of booking the Hörnli Hut for both you and myself. To give us flexibility, I usually make the reservation last minute, which helps us avoid a 50 CHF change fee in case we need to adjust the date. I know the hut owner, so booking close to the climb works smoothly. The hut costs 150 CHF per person, which is additional to the guiding fee you are paying here on Explore-Share.

Which shop do you recommend for renting or buying gear in Zermatt?

I recommend Matterhorn Sport in Zermatt. They offer a comprehensive range of equipment for both purchase and rental, ensuring you have everything needed for your climb. Their knowledgeable staff can assist you in selecting the appropriate gear. You can find more information on their website: https://www.matterhornsport.ch/en

Can we change the ascent day to match the weather and mountain conditions?

I try to offer flexibility to adjust the ascent day last minute based on weather and mountain conditions. I limit my schedule to a maximum of four tours per week to allow this flexibility. However, I make the final decision on the best day to climb, as conditions on the mountain can vary beyond just the weather forecast. For example, a clear day following a storm might look ideal, but the mountain may still have heavy snow that affects safety. My goal is to choose the safest conditions for a successful climb.

Can you arrange additional guides if we have several people in our group?

Yes, I can reach out to my IFMGA mountain guide friends to arrange additional guides if your group has multiple climbers. However, these arrangements need to be made in advance, as all guides are often booked up, especially during peak season. It’s also essential to understand that you won’t climb together as a group. Each guide adjusts the pace based on their individual client’s level and experience, and with the Matterhorn’s crowds, it’s not necessarily feasible to wait for each other, take breaks together, or take group photos. Additionally, if one climber needs to turn back, their guide will do so with them, allowing the others to continue as planned.

What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?

We understand that finding the perfect place to stay is an essential part of your adventure experience. To help you with this, we’ve curated a list of three highly recommended hotels that offer comfort, convenience, and a touch of local charm. These accommodations are well-suited for adventurers looking to relax and rejuvenate after an exciting day of exploration
Hotel Bahnhof in Zermatt
See rooms

About the guide

Guide profile image

-Tobias

4.8

(36)

Mountain Guide

I am a IFMGA certified mountain guide and I'm passionated about nature. I was born in 1977 and before entering in the mountain life, I worked as a teacher in Borg Lienz.

I started training as a canyoning guide 15 years ago. Since 2009, I have also trained with canyoning leaders in Carinthia. Additionally, I have been on the road as a mountain and ski instructor. During the summers, I have guided a lot in Switzerland, where I took my guests to many mountains over 4000 meters high. My “motto” in the mountains and in life has always been the same: “Never stop exploring”

I work now for Carnicoalpin where our main objective is leading and accompanying you on steep mountains and great ski slopes with a particular focus set on safety.

For more information, please feel free to contact me. We can discuss about your wishes and the different options I offer. I will be really happy to be your guide and share a great moment with you!

Languages

German | English

Certificates

IFMGA

Request more information

Reviews with photos

The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.5
The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.5
The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.5
The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.5
The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.5
The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.5
The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.5
All that was expected and more. Tobias (my guide) is a professional and earned my trust from the beginning. He was very helpful in the preparation and planning for the trip answering all questions leading up to the climb. Tobias gave insightful information on how to train beforehand and acclimatize upon arrival in Zermatt. This paid dividends as it set me up for success the day of the Matterhorn ascent. I felt safe throughout the entire 7-hour experience and am thankful to have been set up with such an outstanding steward of the profession. Would strongly recommend this trip and getting linked in with Tobias if your goal is to climb the Matterhorn. 5
All that was expected and more. Tobias (my guide) is a professional and earned my trust from the beginning. He was very helpful in the preparation and planning for the trip answering all questions leading up to the climb. Tobias gave insightful information on how to train beforehand and acclimatize upon arrival in Zermatt. This paid dividends as it set me up for success the day of the Matterhorn ascent. I felt safe throughout the entire 7-hour experience and am thankful to have been set up with such an outstanding steward of the profession. Would strongly recommend this trip and getting linked in with Tobias if your goal is to climb the Matterhorn. 5
Unbelievable experience! 
Tobias was the best; super experienced and I felt really safe with him on the rope. 
Thanks a lot! 5
Unbelievable experience! 
Tobias was the best; super experienced and I felt really safe with him on the rope. 
Thanks a lot! 5
Unbelievable experience! 
Tobias was the best; super experienced and I felt really safe with him on the rope. 
Thanks a lot! 5
Unbelievable experience! 
Tobias was the best; super experienced and I felt really safe with him on the rope. 
Thanks a lot! 5
Unbelievable experience! 
Tobias was the best; super experienced and I felt really safe with him on the rope. 
Thanks a lot! 5
Tobias and Jaromias were excellent guides. The trip was wonderful and hopefully we'll get a chance to climb again together some day!5
Tobias and Jaromias were excellent guides. The trip was wonderful and hopefully we'll get a chance to climb again together some day!5
Tobias and Jaromias were excellent guides. The trip was wonderful and hopefully we'll get a chance to climb again together some day!5
Tobias and Jaromias were excellent guides. The trip was wonderful and hopefully we'll get a chance to climb again together some day!5
Tobias and Jaromias were excellent guides. The trip was wonderful and hopefully we'll get a chance to climb again together some day!5
Tobias and Jaromias were excellent guides. The trip was wonderful and hopefully we'll get a chance to climb again together some day!5

What people are saying about this trip

Renier

The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.

The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.The climb with Tobias was great! Amazing guy with a lot of experience and very friendly.

Martin

Tobias and his colleague Alex were very knowledgeable and professional on all aspects of this amazing experience.

John

Tobias knows the Matterhorn and the surrounding area extremely well. He will go at a level that is comfortable for you and help you reach whatever mountaineering goal you have. Another reviewer said Tobias knows every step on the Matterhorn - and this is absolutely true. He's one of the BEST around.

Jarosław

Tobias is a great guide,who knows every stone and step on the way to the top. He is a professional guide so that I can only recommend him. If you are planning to climb Matterhorn you should choose him as a guide. Best regards and many success Tobias. I wish you all the best.

Jingmei

Very professional I was lucky enough to get to Matterhorn, thanks


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