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Climbing Matterhorn: Top Outdoor Adventures Awaiting You

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As one of the iconic peaks of the Alps, the Matterhorn stands 4,478 meters tall and is a well-known climbing objective for all types of mountaineer !

Want to reach the summit of one of the most renowned mountains in Europe? Mount Matterhorn (4478m), also known as Mount Cervino, is located on the border between Switzerland and Italy and overlooks the Swiss resort town of Zermatt to the north-east and the Italian town of Cervinia to the south. A very popular goal among mountaineers, it is probably the most photographed mountain in Europe. The 2 main routes to climb Matterhorn are the Hörnli Ridge, starting from Zermatt, and the Lion's Ridge starting from Breuil–Cervina. Other secondary and more challenging routes include the the Zmuttgrat on the northwest ridge, and the Furggengrat on the southeast ridge. Select one of the trips below and bag this peak! Explore-Share.com only promotes trips led by certified mountain guides.

Top mountain climbing trips | Matterhorn

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FAQs: Mountain Climbing in Matterhorn

What should I know about Mountain Climbing Matterhorn?

A mountain climbing journey up the Matterhorn is a legendary and unforgettable experience. It poses significant difficulties that require a high level of fitness and experience. Groups often include just one climber for a personal experience and the best chance of a successful summit. The Normal Route up the Hornli Ridge is considered the easiest and most popular ascent, including a stay at the Hornli Hut (3,266m). The mountain huts can be crowded during the summer, so reserving a place in advance is a must.

Why should I choose Matterhorn for my Mountain Climbing adventure?

Technically Amazing!

For climbers interested in a tough, life-altering climb, the Matterhorn is an ideal objective. The mixed terrain and unpredictable weather make it one of the most difficult climbs in the world. Its intimidating reputation rightfully translates to one of the most rewarding ascents for mountaineers.

Phenomenal Scenery!

Not only is it the sixth-highest mountain in the Alps, its isolation from other mountains makes for uninhibited valley views. From 4,478 meters, climbers can peer across the top of clouds to the few other peaks capable of poking through. From Zermatt or Breuil-Cervinia to the top, mountaineers can expect some of the best Alpine views on either side of the border.

A Rich Climbing Culture!

The surrounding region is home to plenty of high summits within the Pennine Alps, some of the tallest in western Europe. Use your acclimatization as an opportunity to explore other high profile destinations. Or perfect your mountaineering skills on the Matterhorn before taking on one of the other challenging high-altitude mountains in the area like Monte Rosa or the Weisshorn.

What can I expect from the weather during my Mountain Climbing trip in Matterhorn?

The weather on the Matterhorn is infamous for being volatile and unpredictable. The best season to climb Matterhorn is from June to September, after the winter snow has melted and before the less stable fall weather arrives. During the summer, temperatures in the mountain are around -10ºC (14°F), and snowstorms and thunderstorms are quite frequent. However, given its great height, its steep faces, and its isolated location, Matterhorn is exposed to high winds (about 70km per hour) and rapid weather changes, often forcing climbers to postpone their plans. For a safe ascent, the weather window in Matterhorn needs to be absolutely clear. Therefore, it is advisable to include a few extra days on your itinerary to complete an ascent.

Which language is predominantly spoken in the Matterhorn region?

Italian, German, French

What currency is accepted around Matterhorn?

Euro and Swiss franc

How many days should I allocate for my Matterhorn Mountain Climbing experience?

Mountaineers should plan on dedicating more than a week to climb the Matterhorn, which includes the time necessary to properly prepare for adverse weather and other unforeseen obstacles. Acclimatization is required to safely ascend the Matterhorn. The climb itself is generally a two- to three-day journey. The mountain refuge is usually the primary objective for the first day, with a summit and descent on the following day.

What's the country code for the Matterhorn region?

Italy: +39

Switzerland: +41

When is the best time to travel to Matterhorn for Mountain Climbing?

Climbs are generally undertaken during the popular summer months from June to September. Mountaineers can take advantage of late spring and autumn to avoid the crowds during an ascent, though the weather should always be taken into account when preparing for the Matterhorn.

Which are the main routes to Climb Matterhorn?

The 2 main routes to climb Matterhorn are the Hörnli Ridge, starting from Zermatt in Switzerland, and the Lion's Ridge (Liongrat or Cresta del Leone) starting from Breuil–Cervina in Italy. Other secondary and more challenging routes include the the Zmuttgrat on the northwest ridge, and the Furggengrat on the southeast ridge.

What is the difficulty level to Climb Matterhorn?

The Hörnli Route, starting from Zermatt, Switzerland is the easiest more popular and easiest route to Climb Matterhorn. Nevertheless, it has an AD (assez difficile or fairly difficult) difficulty level in the French scale, and it shouldn't be underestimated. It's better to have previous climbing experience, and be familiar with exposed terrain and climbing on fixed ropes. The Lion's Ridge is slightly more difficult, rated AD+ in the French grading scale.

What experience and skill level is required to Climb Matterhorn?

All guided ascents to Matterhorn are done by IFMGA/UIAGM qualified mountain guides, and the client to guide ratio is always private 1:1 guiding. Regarding previous experience, it's important to be confident on technical and exposed terrain and rope work skills. Although having rock climbing skills is not mandatory, it is advisable to have some basic experience and do at least one ascent on an easier rocky ridge to acquire the basic techniques.

For those without the necessary skills and experience, there are longer programs including preparation days with lower altitude acclimatization ascents, important to learn and practice skills and techniques such as rock climbing skills, crampons and ice axe use, rope work, and basic glacier travel techniques.

Where to stay before climbing Matterhorn?

Both Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia are important mountain resorts with numerous lodging alternatives of all types and price ranges.

During the ascent to Matterhorn, overnights are in mountain huts. These usually provide beds with blankets, gas stoves, and half-board meals (breakfast and dinner). Be mindful that, due to the lack of a water source, there is no drinkable water available in the refuges. You should carry your own water bottle or boil mountain water before using it.

The Hörnli hut has capacity for 120 climbers and the Carrel hut for 45. Half-board overnight accommodation costs around 150 CHF (€138) at the Hörnli Hut and €15 at the Carrel hut. Payment is done on site, only in cash in Swiss francs or euros.

How to get to the starting point?

If you plan to climb the Matterhorn from the Italian side, your journey will start in Breuil-Cervinia, a resort town in the stunning Aosta Valley, within the commune of Valtournenche in northwestern Italy. It is easily accessible, located about 30 km from the A5 Torino-Aosta motorway, with regular public transportation options. The closest airport is Turin Caselle (118 km away), followed by Milan Malpensa (160 km) and Geneva (210 km), all of which provide transfers to Cervinia. For train travelers, the Châtillon/Saint-Vincent station, as well as those in Turin and Milan, offer bus and coach services to Cervinia.

On the Swiss side, the climb begins in Zermatt, a scenic village in the Valais canton’s German-speaking region. The most convenient international airports are Geneva and Zurich, both offering frequent rail connections to Zermatt, with travel times of 3 to 4 hours. Since private cars are not permitted in Zermatt, those driving must park in Täsch, 7 km away, and continue by train or taxi. The drive from Geneva, Zurich, or Milan takes approximately 3.5 to 4.5 hours.

What is the day to day itinerary for a Matterhorn Climb?

For the Hornli ridge route (Swiss side), the standard 2-day itinerary is as follows:

Day 1: Take the lift from Zermatt to Schwarzsee (which means Black Lake), a small lake on the foot of Matterhorn, at 2,552 meters, and then hike uphill for about 2 and a half hours (700 meters ascent) to the Hörnli hut (3,266 meters), where you'll spend the night.

Day 2: Summit attempt. This day involves a 6-hour sustained climbing over a distance of 1,700 meters and a vertical rise of 1,200 meters. On good weather days, during the high season, this route is usually very crowded. The descent is through the same trail and takes about 5 hours.

For the Lion's ridge route (Italian side), the standard 2-day itinerary is as follows:

Day 1: Mountaineers climb 1,800 meters over 6 hours to the Carrel hut (Rifugio Carrel) at 3,829 meters, where they spend the night. The less tiring alternative is to take a cable car from Cervinia up to the Plan Maison station (2,548m) or a jeep to the Abruzzi hut (also known as Rifugio Orionde) at 2,802m, and then hike to the Carrel hut.

Day 2: Summit attempt, on an estimated 5-hour ascent with a 650-meter vertical height gain. Descent is along the same route.

Keep in mind that most guides with only accept very experienced and well-trained clients for a 2-day ascents. In most cases, guides propose to do a test climb in the days before the Matterhorn ascent, to check your climbing skills and establish confidence with the Guide (Pollux or Breithorn traverse).

In all cases, acclimatization is a key factor for a succesful Matterhorn climb. If you are planning to go on a 2 or 3 day ascent, it's important to spend several days before in Zermatt, Cerivinia, or other destinations at high altitude, in order to get a good acclimatization. Longer Matterhorn trips (5 days or more), usually include a gradual acclimatization plan with lower-altitude climbs such as Breithorn or Pollux.

When was Matterhorn first climbed?

Matterhorn plays a major role in mountaineering history. The first ascent was achieved in 1865 by Edward Whymper together with a team of Swiss guides, through the Hornli ridge. The first ascent via the Lion's ridge was accomplished in 1865 as well. Since then, Matterhorn/Cervino has become a world-recognized alpine icon, and is on most alpinists bucket list.

What people are saying about Mountain Climbing | Matterhorn

Maxime

Incredible adventure. The contact and the organisation with Peaks Hunter was perfect. The experience with the Guide (Claudio) was also perfect. Very professional guide, perfect French speaker. It was a pleasure to spend those two days with him. Reaching the summit without him would have been impossible. (Do not believe in the Youtube videos over the Lion Ridge, they are not a good representation of the journey, much harder but way more nice) Thank you Peaks Hunter.

Hannelore

Nicola was the perfect guide! We had a wonderfull day, he guided us like the best.

Anttu

Climbed Pollux (instead of Breithorn) together with Daniel as a preparation for Matterhorn. I believe Pollux is a great preparation climb for the Horn and Daniel did excellent job during the whole climb from Klein Matterhorn guiding us through the glacier, scrambling part and fixed ropes.

Anttu

Daniel guided us safely to Matterhorn summit via Hörnli Ridge. We visited Swiss and Italian summits and then headed back to Hörnli Hut. In very good conditions this whole trip took us just approx. 8 hours. Daniel is a very strong and skilled climber – he knows the route, gives good insight on how to climb each section and is continuously aware during short roping to prevent a possible slip. Just understand that Matterhorn climb is a very intense effort - there's not awfully lot of time for taking photos, admiring the views or relaxing during the climb.

Donald

Tobias is an amazing guide. He guided me for the Riffelhorn and a Hornli Ridge 2 day Matterhorn climb. He knew the route well and made sure we were safe the whole time. He also shifted the days because the weather was bad for the original booked days. Best guide in Zermatt, I will definitely try to book him for all future trips in this region.

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