Climb Matterhorn via an integral route connecting Italy to Switzerland. A 2-day expedition led by IFMGA-certified guide Indio.
How can it be possible to ascend a mountain from one country and when descending, be in another one? The answer is simple: climbing the Matterhorn via its Italian-Swiss integral route!
Matterhorn is an emblematic mountain of the Alps. With an interesting history behind and a powerful pyramid shape, it is a unique peak that every mountaineer wants to try at least once in life.
There are two normal routes to touch the summit of Matterhorn. One begins on the Italian side and is the Leone Route. Its starting point is in Cervinia, passing through the Carrel Hut (3829 m) until reaching the summit. The other route is on the Swiss side and starts in Zermatt. It is called the Hornli Route.
My idea is to go up via an integral route that starts on the Italian side towards the summit and descends along the Hornli ridge. Although it is a much more demanding choice, it is an uncrowded route ideal to fully enjoy the journey and its landscapes.
Anyway, any of these routes can be our plan b if weather does not help or if the mountain conditions are not good. In that case, we’ll go up and down by the same way.
To join this 2-day expedition you must have a prior acclimatization, which is not included. Read more details of the itinerary at the bottom of this page.
Please send your request to book if you want to climb Matterhorn via this Italian-Swiss amazing route. I’ll be waiting for your contact!
- Guiding fee
- Transport during the trip
The price does not include: accommodation of the guide and participants; guide's and participant's meals; entrance fees for the guide and participants; lifts; footwear and mountain clothes; personal technical equipment; accident and rescue insurance.
We will leave from Cervinia towards the Orionde Hut, where we will leave the car and begin our approach trekking. A not very difficult climb will take us to the Carrel refuge where we will spend the night. It will be a 5-hour hiking day.
Early in the morning we will begin a demanding ascent to the summit. We will cross the Lione Ridge that is equipped with ropes that facilitate our climb. If we are lucky and the weather conditions help we will reach the summit and after enjoying its magical views we will go down the Hornli Crest, on the Swiss side. The round trip takes around 12 hours.
I am an IFMGA and a High Mountain AAGM certified Mountain Guide. I was born in San Juan, where I found my passion for the mountains when I was a child. Today my home is El Chalten, this magical place where I have my family and where I work and live since 2008.
I have climbed many different peaks along the Andes, as well as in Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, France, Spain, Germany Italy, Austria and Switzerland. I have climbed great mountains and new routes in Patagonia, both in Cerro Torre and in the Fitz Roy mountains. I climbed Mount Fitz Roy five times and Mount Torre three times. All of them through different routes and some of them opening a new one.
One of my biggest achievements was the Standhardt - Herron - Egger traverse and the "Directa Huarpe" new route, on the west face of Cerro Torre. As well as climbing the Tehuelche route on the Fitz Roy hill in 16 hours.
I also guide in the Central Andes, in places such as Cerro Mercedario and Vallecitos in Mendoza, among other mountains. I am also a Mountaineering and Climbing instructor in different associations and member of the relief committee at the Club Andino Mercedario of the San Juan Province. I am also a member of the technical committee of the Argentine Association of Mountain Guides, in which I am part of the staff of instructors for IFMGA guides.
I guide my clients mainly in Patagonia. I spend summer in the town of El Chalten and I move to Bariloche, in northern Patagonia, in the winter, where I guide more technical excursions, like ice and/or rock climbing, as well as classic mountaineering ascents. During the year I also guide in the mountains of Peru, Bolivia and in Europe.
Even when I’m not working I enjoy climbing, bouldering, sport skiing and mountaineering. Keeping at my highest level of performance helps me ensure my clients’ safety, that is always my top priority.
AAGM | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA
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Indio was a fun and skillful guide! My friend and I did multi and single pitch with him and felt very safe. We felt like we were climbing with a friend and learned along the way! We will be back, maybe next time mountaineering with Indio!
Indio was an amazing guide! I am safe and sound on the ground now :) He was very knowledgeable about the terrain and weather patterns; he changed plans, urged me to move faster accordingly. He answered all my questions and was really patient with my slowness. As for the climb, it's a great intro to Alpine world. I'm primarily a rock climber, so the ice/snow part was all new. The ice/snow part was strenuous, but doable as a completely newbie, and basically you can be pulled up or lowered if you're struggling. Approach was long, rocky, and windy. What a great experience. Highly recommend Indio and the climb!
Indio is an awesome guide and all around great guy. The trip up Aguja Guillaumet is absolutely amazing, we took the Comensana-Fonrouge route cause the Amy coluoir was in bad condition. Indio found a two day window of good weather for the climb. He also spent a day climbing in town to go over "systems" and gauge my ability. A great trip I will never forget. Can't say enough good things about Indio!
Lisa McCarthy & Mark Dabbs
Our trip with Indio over the Ice Cap was fantastic. At the pre-departure meeting, Indio showed us several variations which helped us make decisions that allowed us to work out a way to still participate (I had an injury, therefore a low fitness level).Indio showed great patience; he adjusted the pace accordingly and his experience was evident over the course of a week. The weather was kind and allowed us outstanding views on the Glacier and from the many various high points along the way. We particularly enjoyed the rock scrambling and dodging the many crevasses! Our group was good humoured and worked well as a team; my partner and I felt we were with a group of friends, rather than a private guided trip. I'd recommend Indio for anyone considering this type of adventure.
Eoin, from Ireland
I had a great time with Indio, although the weather was bad in El Chaltén. We had summit attempt to Guillaumet, but huge wind stopped us. Indio then made possible a speed ascent of Cerro Electrico, while very few climbers make any ascents. And we also enjoyed great rock climbing days near the town.
Beautiful moment shared. First summit in the Fitzroy line. Magical and fascinating place. We climbed through the route Amy for the summit Guillaumet. Indio is the perfect, Professional and passionate, he's a perfect guide to do quality with security. Next time, we plan to clim both pics: Cerro Torres and Fitzroy. Enjoy seb
Beautiful experience, profesional guiding, excellent group, perfect climate, what else do you need. Thanks to Indio for his professional skills has Guide and thanks to Explore&Hare for the service and this unforgettable opportunity. Fred
Gracias por los comentarios, la pasamos muy bien en la Ascensión. un muy buen grupo y divertidos!!
Indio is a very friendly and skillful guide who brought us on the top of the wonderful Cerro Solo. No doubt it's the best way to explore Patagonia!
If you think of organising a trip to the "6miles" in Catamarca, I am in! Thanks for your guiding tour around "El Chalten"!
With Indio you will surely spend a great time! Very professional and friendly. I recommend him. He guided me to the top of Cerro Solo in El Chaltén, Patagonia, Argentina. I am looking forward to going with you for a coming expedition in San Juan province.
Thanks for bringing us to Cerro Solo (el Chalten)! It has been a wonderful adventure! I'll come back or maybe we see each other in your region, San Juan, to climb some volcanos...! Take care, Gauthier
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