Join IFMGA-certified guide Cosmin on a thrilling climb to the summit of the Matterhorn via the classic Hornli Ridge during a 5-day trip.
Jun, Jul, Aug
Climb the iconic alpine peak of the Matterhorn on an exciting 5-day trip. Straddling the border between Switzerland and Italy, the peak stretches to 4,478 meters, one of the highest in Europe.
The pyramid peak of the Alps is one of the most dramatic and iconic in the world. The incredible views follow us from the base of the mountain to the summit, where the surroundings offer panoramic views.
From the first day to the fourth we’ll gradually acclimatise while working on rope manoeuvres and climbing on mixed terrain using crampons.
One of our prepatory climbs will be along the Arete des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc Massif. After crossing a glacier, we’ll climb the the mixed terrain ridge.
On summit day we’ll leave the Hornli Hut in the early hours of the morning ready for a challenging day. We’ll set ourselves benchmarks along the way to make sure our climb goes smoothly and to plan.
We’ll aim to reach the summit in approximately 5 hours from our starting point at the hut.
Conquering the iconic summit reveals incredible views of the mountain range, which is a reward that you certainly deserve after such a long climb.
From the summit, the descent usually takes the same amount of time, if not even longer, as the ascent.
Despite being the easiest route along the Matterhorn, it still requires a good level of fitness and ability, given the mixed terrain that needs to be crossed, as well as the length of time it takes to the summit.
Get in touch now to reserve your place on an incredible 5-day climb to the classic alpine summit of the Matterhorn.
The first day is designed to know each other and practice rock climbing and basic ropework. We will choose a site around Chamonix and do one long or several short rock routes, as well as practice basic rope manoeuvres that we will need on the Matterhorn.
We meet in the morning at Aiguille du Midi and take the cable car to the last station. Then, we will cross the glacier and climb the Arete des Cosmiques – an iconic mixed climb above Chamonix. The objective of this day is to get you slowly acclimatised and work on rope manoeuvres and climbing mixed terrain with crampons.
Based on the route conditions and level of fitness, we’ll make another preparatory climb, either on the Aiguilles d’Entreves or the Aiguilles Marbrées.
Starting off from Chamonix, we’ll drive to the town of Tasch where we will leave the car and board the train to Zermatt. Once there we will traverse the city and take the cable car to Schwarzsee, from where it will take 2-3 hours to reach Hornli Hut.
Leaving the hut around 4:00am we’ll begin our attempt at the classic summit. We’ll have some benchmarks along the way, aiming to reach the Solvay hut in around 2 hours. Our next benchmark is to reach the summit in around 5 hours after leaving Hornli hut.
The descent from the summit usually takes as long, if not longer, as the ascent. We will aim to reach Hornli, then Schwarzsee station, before 4:00pm. Then we’ll get the train back to Tasch before driving back to Chamonix.
I'm an IFMGA guide from Romania and a member of the Eastern European Mountain Guide Association.
With two decades and a half spent doing mountain sports and nearly a decade guiding or teaching climbing my work and passion has taken me from the mountains and crags near home to the greater ranges.
Please feel free to get in touch for trips involving trekking, climbing, skiing or expeditions. I also run climbing courses (rock, ice, mixed and alpine), ski touring and winter safety workshops as well as self rescue in vertical terrain clinics.
Regular climbs from sport to multi-pitch and alpine terrain are charged on per-day rates plus expenses while expeditions are charged on a flat rate based on the size of the group and the destination.
I have a very strict policy on guide-to-guest ratios for all types of terrain and these are clearly explained prior to engagement. For multi pitch climbs it is usually 1:1 and it never exceeds 1:2. For single pitch venues (especially on instructional outings) it never exceeds 1:4. Higher ratios are possible with the hiring of additional guides and only following prior arrangements. For treks and ski tours the ratios are more generous but depending on the terrain and/or the group’s experience.
I am comfortable in using for guiding purposes the following languages: English, Romanian, French and Italian and for teaching purposes English and Romanian.
Romanian | Italian | French | English
Romania, France, New Zealand
We had a great time , unfortunately Cosmin broke his arm two weeks before the trip but the replacement guide Nicu Durnac was superb.
The traveller did not leave a comment.
The plan was to leave early to ascent Mont Blanc via Trois Monts. As a beginner, Cosmin accessed my performance by timing my ascent to the shoulder of Tacul, else he has to change the plan. I met the timing and proceeded to Maudit. Unfortunately, he made a tough decision to head back as the condition at the foot of Maudit was not great. (We heard serac fell at mid day). Being professional, Cosmin changed the plan to ascent Tacul and we did Cosmique Arete. I would highly recommend this trip!
A Wonderful guide that taking care of everything for the expedition. Had a great mountaineering experience with Cosmin.
Group of 1
EUR 2887 Each
Want a different number of travellers?
- Guiding fee
The price does not include the guide´s expenses (accommodation, meals, lift tickets, etc).
Guide ratio for Matterhorn summit is 1:1. However, 2 people could choose to share costs for days 1-3. If this is the case:
- summiting person pays: 2040
- companion pays: 600
If both people want to summit they can share days 1-4 and each pays 2060 EUR each and on the summit day there are 2 guides to keep the 1:1 ratio.
Huts, transport, lifts (except Cham valley) and meals not included in the price. These are to be paid directly by customers both for themselves as well as for the guide/guides.
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