Jun, Jul, Aug
The first day is designed to know each other and practice rock climbing and basic ropework. We will choose a site around Chamonix and do one long or several short rock routes, as well as practice basic rope manoeuvres that we will need on the Matterhorn.
We meet in the morning at Aiguille du Midi and take the cable car to the last station. Then, we will cross the glacier and climb the Arete des Cosmiques – an iconic mixed climb above Chamonix. The objective of this day is to get you slowly acclimatised and work on rope manoeuvres and climbing mixed terrain with crampons.
Based on the route conditions and level of fitness, we’ll make another preparatory climb, either on the Aiguilles d’Entreves or the Aiguilles Marbrées.
Starting off from Chamonix, we’ll drive to the town of Tasch where we will leave the car and board the train to Zermatt. Once there we will traverse the city and take the cable car to Schwarzsee, from where it will take 2-3 hours to reach Hornli Hut.
Leaving the hut around 4:00am we’ll begin our attempt at the classic summit. We’ll have some benchmarks along the way, aiming to reach the Solvay hut in around 2 hours. Our next benchmark is to reach the summit in around 5 hours after leaving Hornli hut.
The descent from the summit usually takes as long, if not longer, as the ascent. We will aim to reach Hornli, then Schwarzsee station, before 4:00pm. Then we’ll get the train back to Tasch before driving back to Chamonix.
I'm an IFMGA guide from Romania and a member of the Eastern European Mountain Guide Association.
With two decades and a half spent doing mountain sports and nearly a decade guiding or teaching climbing my work and passion has taken me from the mountains and crags near home to the greater ranges.
Please feel free to get in touch for trips involving trekking, climbing, skiing or expeditions. I also run climbing courses (rock, ice, mixed and alpine), ski touring and winter safety workshops as well as self rescue in vertical terrain clinics.
Regular climbs from sport to multi-pitch and alpine terrain are charged on per-day rates plus expenses while expeditions are charged on a flat rate based on the size of the group and the destination.
I have a very strict policy on guide-to-guest ratios for all types of terrain and these are clearly explained prior to engagement. For multi pitch climbs it is usually 1:1 and it never exceeds 1:2. For single pitch venues (especially on instructional outings) it never exceeds 1:4. Higher ratios are possible with the hiring of additional guides and only following prior arrangements. For treks and ski tours the ratios are more generous but depending on the terrain and/or the group’s experience.
I am comfortable in using for guiding purposes the following languages: English, Romanian, French and Italian and for teaching purposes English and Romanian.
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