3-day Mont Blanc ascent with acclimatization

Please keep in mind you are booking my availability for the duration of the tour. Although Mont Blanc is the ultimate objective, if conditions are unsafe, we will have to adapt the program and climb another mountain. We will consider mountaineering in Monte Rosa or other options in the Chamonix area. Although I understand that it might be frustrating, safety is a top priority. Canceling due to bad / unsafe conditions will not be possible as my dates will be blocked for you.

There are plenty of alternative options in case the conditions are not suitable to go for Mont Blanc.

We will choose the best alternative plan depending on the weather and mountain/route conditions, and the client's fitness and skill level. To show you as an example, and just to mention a few, some of the possible alternative plans could be:

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Maudit

Arête des Cosmiques

Aiguille d’Entreves

Vallee Blanche Traverse

Tour Ronde

Éperon des Cosmiques

Aiguille du Tour

Dent du Géant

Arete des Papillons

In order to climb Mont Blanc you need to have some previous experience in mountains above 4000 mt. You also need to be familiar with the use of crampons and ice axe. Ideally, you should get to the area at least one day earlier to be better acclimatized for the ascent. It is highly recommended to do some preparation in the aiguille de midi beforehand. If the guide detects that you don't know how to properly use crampons and an ice axe, the guide can adapt the program to the client's abilities. Regarding fitness, the better trained you are, the more you will enjoy the ascent!

Yes, to climb Mt Blanc is mandatory to have a spot in the hut. So as soon as I confirm that I'm available, please book your spots in the refuges first, then come back and book the ascent with me.

You need the first night at Tete Rousse Refuge, and the second night in refuge de Gouter ;) You can check availability and book on this page: https://montblanc.ffcam.fr/index.php?alias=info-reservation-tout-public&_lang=GB&_setlang=1

On this trip we will attempt Mont Blanc summit through the Gouter Route.

Check below the list of required equipment:

35-50L Rucksack that fits your back size. A light simple sack is preferable to one with lots of straps, zips, bells and whistles! Some extra waterproof bags for storing gear inside the pack are useful.

Mountain Boots. Boots designed for alpine mountaineering, able to take crampons effectively (B3 or B2) and well insulated. Examples of suitable boots are Scarpa Mont Blanc, Phantom Guide, Jorasses and Freney. The new Scarpa Mantas are now ok for Mont Blanc in summer in good weather and conditions. Sportiva Nepal Extreme’s or Evos are also suitable and popular as are many and various other good brands that meet the above specifications. Boots can be hired in Chamonix if you don’t have a suitable pair.

Crampons with anti-balling plates (anti-bots). General 12 point steel mountaineering crampons are ideal e.g. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Serac or Petzl Vasak. Make sure they fit your boots well. Avoid very lightweight walking / ski touring crampons or heavy technical ice climbing crampons.

Gaiters are essential for keeping snow out of the top of your boots and laces away from your crampons! Take some time ensuring gaiters are a neat fit and that there are no straps sticking out on the inside of your boots. Boots with built in gaiters work well and generally mean that you don’t need an additional pair.

Helmet. General mountaineering helmet essential e.g. Petzl Elios

Harness. General mountaineering harness ideal e.g. DMM Super Couloir / Centre or Black Diamond Bod, with 2 X screw gate Karabiners. If you already have a rock climbing harness this will be fine as long as it is large enough to wear over multiple bulky warm layers. If you are buying one specifically for Mont Blanc, choose a lightweight alpine mountaineering harness.

Ice axe. A simple mountaineering ice axe is ideal and preferable to technical climbing models. Petzl summit, Black Diamond Venom, Grivel air-tech and, cheapest but still totally fine, DMM Cirque. Any straps or leashes on your ice axe should be removed.

Waterproof Jacket and Trousers. These form your important ‘shell layer’ protecting you from the wind as well as rain and snow. They need to be waterproof but not warm as your insulation comes from other layers so lightweight is good. A large hood to go over your helmet is ideal and full length zips mean the trousers can be taken off over boots / crampons.

Mountain Trousers. A tough, stretchy soft shell fabric is ideal and these can be worn without leggings or over trousers most of the time e.g. Patagonia Simple Guide Pant. Lighter trekking trousers are fine too but only with leggings to make them warmer for summit day.

Thermal Layer. A long sleeved synthetic or wool layer to wear next to the skin as a first layer of insulation when cool or as an outer layer on the glacier when warm. A zip neck is useful for ventilation. One spare or additional layer might be useful for summit day in cold conditions.

Mid-Layer Jacket. Fleece or, ideally a ‘soft shell’ style jacket with a thin insulation layer. Worn over the thermal layer and under the waterproof jacket when cold / windy e.g Patagonia Pullover / R2 Jacket, Rab Powerstretch Zip Top,

Light Weight Duvet Jacket. A warm insulation layer in a generous size so that it can be worn over all your other layers. Ideally a lightweight down or synthetic duvet jacket with a large hood e.g. Rab Photon / Infinity or Marmot Ama Dablam Jackets

Gloves. One warm thick thick pair for summit day and at least one other thinner pair for general use. e.g. Black Diamond Glissade & Mid-Weight

Warm Hat, Sun Hat & Buff. Ideally both hats will cover your ears and protect from the wind / cold and sun / heat. Also bring a neck warmer / buff / face mask or balaclava to cover your face in the event of cold windy weather.

Socks. A thin liner pair for walking in to huts and a warm medium-thick pair for use above the huts plus a spare pair of each. Some people like to wear both together for blister prevention.

Sun Glasses & Goggles. Good quality dark sunglasses that form a good seal with your face and fit securely. Category 3 or 4 for use in strong sunlight with reflection from the snow. Goggles are also useful incase of windy / snowy weather. If you have ski goggles, bring them. If not you can wait and see what the forecast is and buy goggles in Chamonix.

Sun Cream & Lip Protection. Bring both and use liberally every day regardless of the weather. At least factor 30 and factor 50 preferable. Small bottles are ideal to save weight.

Water Bottle. A tough 1L ‘Nalgene’ style water bottle is ideal and can be supplemented with another bottle of sports drink etc. for the summit days. Hot sweet tea is available in the huts and a good way of keeping your drink warm for longer.

Snacks / Hill food. Bring your favorite snacks for the hill, flapjacks, cereal bars, dried fruit, cake, chocolate, energy bars etc. Things can be bought in Chamonix before deaprture and in the mountain huts which also provide lunch.

Head Torch. Necessary for pre-dawn starts and moving about the mountain huts. Small, light LED headtorch like the Petzl Tikka

Personal Medical Items. Blister kit, plasters, painkillers, glasses / contact lenses as necessary

Personal Admin Items. Mobile Phone, Cash, Passport if necessary

Extra Kit for Huts:

Ear Plugs

Toothbrush

Hut discount card / Alpine club membership

1 Euro coin for use in the Tete Rousse Hut lockers

Optional Items:

Trekking Pole(s)

Waterproof rucksack cover is in the event of wet weather hut walks.

Camera

Other Items

Yes, there are plenty rent shops in Chamonix where you can rent crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness, gaiters, mountain boots, or other things you may need for the ascent. The price to rent a piolet, harness, crampons and helmet for 1 person is around 30 EUR per day.

Yes, there are many interesting alternative mountaineering routes we can do in Chamonix in case there is no availability in the huts for Mt. Blanc. This is one example of an itinerary we could do instead of the 3-day ascent to Mont Blanc.

Day 1: Acclimatization and traverse of the Vallée Blanche.

Day 2: Cosmiques ridge.

Day 3: summit mont tacul 4100m or tour ronde 3700m.

No, the price includes only the guiding fee. You can check the list of required equipment in the FAQ: What equipment do I need to bring for the Mont Blanc ascent?

Technical equipment is available for rent in Chamonix.

You should book an accomodation on Chamonix or surroundings for the night before and after the tour. There are plenty of accomodation options within a wide price range, from basic B&B and hostels, to luxurious hotels.

You can check the list with 3 recommended accomodation options on the FAQ 'What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?'

The half-board package in the refuges includes dinner and breakfast. Tete Rousse Hut costs around €95 each for dinner bed & breakfast and Gouter Hut costs around €110 each for dinner bed & breakfast. You can also buy at the huts, or bring with you, snacks for the day.

These are the transfers not included in the trip:

-Train to get to the Nid d´Aigle: 30 EUR per person

-Grands Montets cable car (for the first day of acclimatization): 30 EUR per person.

Please keep in mind that these might vary if we need to do any modifications on the itinerary due to weather and/or mountain conditions.

The nearest airport to get to Chamonix is Geneva airport. Chamonix is about 100kms and a 1.5hr drive from Geneva Airport, and there are plenty of car hire services, regular transfer buses, and private taxis as well.