Cayambe and Chimborazo 9-day climbing trip in Ecuador

Day 1: Pichincha (acclimatization)

We will do our first acclimatization ascent  at 4794 m to the peak of the active volcano Guagua Pichincha. Our primary goal here is to help each team member to start testing their response to high elevation and to give our bodies the chance to get used to the altitude. In the afternoon we will drive back to Quito and spend the night at Casa Helbling Hostal (BL)

Day 2: Acclimatization at North Illiniza Hut (4600 m)

After breakfast, we will depart from Quito to the Ilinizas parking lot. After a 1:30 hour, we’ll arrive at a remote paramo in an area called La Virgen. From here it is a 3-hour hike up to the hut, at 4600 m. We’ll have dinner and sleep there (B/BL/D)

Day 3: North Illiniza Summit (5125 m)

We’ll get up early at 5 AM and after breakfast we’ll start the ascent to the North Illiniza. This peak is normally a fairly straight-forward climb. In one section of the route we must use a fixed rope to pass the famous “Death Pass.” After this pass we’ll reach the summit. The average time to the top is 3 hours. Here we will stop for some pictures and lunch and then we’ll descend for a 1:30 hour to the hut. Once there, we will rest for a while before going down to the parking lot. Our private car will take us to a hotel in the Cotopaxi National Park for a very restful night (B/BL)

Day 4: Cayambe mountain hut

From Quito we will drive north across the Pan American highway, passing some important villages like El Quinche, a very catholic town of Ecuador. We will also have the opportunity to visit the Ecuadorian Line, where we will stop for 1 hour. After that we will continue driving for 15 minutes to finally arrive at the Cayambe village, where we can have a typical lunch from the local people. After lunch we must drive for another 1:30 hour to reach the Cayambe mountain hut at 4700 m. Cayambe is the Ecuador’s third highest peak and stands at 5799 m. Its summit is just 3 km north of the Ecuadorian Line. This mountain has a large glacier which is one of the most active of all the ice flows of the country. Moreover, its varied glacial terrain provides an excellent training skills ground where we can practique some techniques. Overnight stay at the hut (B/BL/D)

Day 5: Cayambe Glacier learning day

We will wake up at 7 am for breakfast. We will go to the glacier by 8:30 AM. You will learn some glacier skills and all the necessary techniques for climbing high peaks like Cayambe, Cotopaxi or Chimborazo. I will teach you how to use ice-axe and crampons and many other safety procedures. We will also practice some rope-handling traverses with the team. After 6 hours of training we will return to the hut for a delicious lunch. Then, we will rest and prepare the equipment for a midnight departure to the Cayambe summit. Early dinner and go to bed at 6:30 PM (B/BL/D).

Day 6: Cayambe summit

We’ll wake up at midnight. Breakfast and final equipment check. We leave the refuge at 1 AM and climb with headlamps for the first four hours. We will have an easy glacier climb to a saddle and then, continue onto steeper and exciting grounds. We’ll cross large crevasses and pass some spectacular seracs. We must climb 40º slopes with occasional short steeper sections. We will finally reach the summit at about 9 or 10 AM. Short rest and return down to the hut for other 4 hours. From there, we can drive down to the Cayambe City and continue to Quito. Casa Helbling Hostal (B/BL)

Day 7: Quito – Chimborazo hut (5000 m)

Today we will move from Quito to Chimborazo, driving across the Pan Aamerican highway and passing by the Latacunga and Ambato cities. We’ll arrive at the hut at 3 or 4 PM. We can sleep there or in tents (B/BL/D)

Day 8: If normal route is not available...

If the normal route has no snow it becomes a very dangerous rockfall since the road is very steep. There is an extra cost of $ 100 per person to cover the expenses of the porters who will carry all the camping equipment, food and water.

On the other hand, we can hike up with all the camping and climbing gear to the the high camp of the Stubel Glacier. Once in there, we will set up our tents and prepare all for the big day (B/BL/D)

Day 9: Chimborazo Summit

We will get up at midnight for breakfast and after checking the equipment, we will leave the hut at 1 AM. We will move immediately to the huge glacier on Chimborazo’s southwest face, where we will first traverse moderately angled ice slopes, climbing through a series of icefalls and up the steep ice ramps, simultaneously on moderate grounds belaying up the steep pitches. Our team will rope together in order to cross crevasses and finally make it to the summit. This is the highest point of the Andes, and from here we will have a magnificent view of the emerging volcanoes that form the eastern and western mountain range. The Chimborazo summit is at 6,310m. The total climbing time is 8-9 hours and we’ll return to the hut by noon. We’ll return to Quito, arriving at the hotel at 8 PM. We’ll spend the night in Quito or in other place according to your itinerary (B/BL).