Yanapaccha Training + Alpamayo Ascent (10 Days) - Cordillera Blanca, Peru
A 10-day high-altitude mountaineering program combining a technical training ascent on Yanapaccha (5,460 m) with the classic Alpamayo (5,947 m) expedition designed to maximize acclimatization, refine glacier skills, and significantly increase summit success on one of the world’s most beautiful peaks.
Andes
10 Days
May - Sep
High
Advanced
Highlights
- Progressive acclimatization and technical training on Yanapaccha before Alpamayo
- Summit attempt on Alpamayo, one of the most գեղեցbeautiful mountains in the world
- Small guide ratio (max 2 climbers per guide) for increased safety and efficiency
Description
This 10-day mountaineering expedition in the Cordillera Blanca is designed for climbers seeking not only to summit Alpamayo (5,947 m), but to do so with the highest possible level of preparation, safety, and success.
The program begins with a 3-day technical training and acclimatization phase on Yanapaccha (5,460 m). Located in the Llanganuco Valley, Yanapaccha offers the perfect terrain to refine essential glacier and ice climbing skills in a real alpine environment. According to IFMGA-certified guide Octavio, this preparatory phase plays a key role in improving efficiency and confidence before tackling Alpamayo’s steep ice faces.
During these first days, you will review and practice core mountaineering techniques: crampon use, rope management, glacier travel, crevasse rescue basics, and ice climbing on slopes up to 50–60°. The ascent of Yanapaccha itself is a rewarding objective, offering panoramic views of iconic peaks such as Huascarán, Chopicalqui, and Huandoy.
After returning to Huaraz for a brief reset, the expedition continues with the classic 6-day Alpamayo climb. Widely regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, Alpamayo presents a sustained technical challenge, with steep snow and ice climbing requiring solid experience and excellent physical condition.
The route approaches through the Santa Cruz Valley, passing high Andean lakes and remote camps before reaching the glacier. From High Camp, the summit push involves navigating crevasses and climbing steep ice slopes to reach the sharp summit ridge.
This combination program is particularly valuable for climbers who want to maximize their chances of success on Alpamayo. The additional acclimatization and technical training often translate into better performance, safer decision-making, and a higher summit rate.
If you’re looking for a structured, progression-based expedition in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, this program offers one of the most complete mountaineering experiences in the region.
Contact us to plan your ascent and secure your place on this expedition.
Or, if you prefer a more introductory option, you can join us on this exciting Santa Cruz Trek and ascent to Nevado Pisco!
Price includes
- Guiding fee
- Breakfast
- Lunch
- Dinner
- Transport during the trip
- Transportation start and back
- Porters
- Mountain guide expenses
Price details
- Included:
- ✅IFMGA/UIAGMcertified mountain guide
- ✅All meals during the expedition
- ✅Transport during the program
- ✅Porters, donkeys, and logistics staff
- ✅Group equipment (ropes, tents, cooking gear)
- ✅Drinking water and snacks
- Not Included
- ❌Personal climbing equipment
- ❌Travel insurance (recommended)
- ❌Accommodation outside the program
- ❌Meals in Huaraz (unless specified)
- ❌Tips and personal expenses
Meeting point
Itinerary
Day 1: Huaraz – Moraine Camp (5,000 m)
Drive via Yungay into the Llanganuco Valley, passing Chinacocha and Orconcocha lakes. Approach hike to Moraine Camp. Transport: ~3.5 hrs / Hiking: ~4 hrs
Day 2: Glacier Training on Yanapaccha
Technical training session on the glacier:
- Equipment use and inspection
- Knots and rope systems
- Crampon techniques
- Glacier travel and rope progression
- Self-arrest and safety techniques
- Ice anchor building
Day 3: Yanapaccha Summit (5,460 m) – Return to Huaraz
Early alpine start (3:00 am). Climb a 180 m ice wall (50–60°) to reach the summit. Descent via ridge back to camp and return to Huaraz.
Day 4: Huaraz – Cashapampa – Llamacoral (3,750 m)
Drive to Cashapampa and trek into Santa Cruz Valley. Camp at Llamacoral.
Day 5: Llamacoral – Base Camp (4,250 m)
Trek past Chinacocha and Orconcocha lakes. Ascend to Base Camp.
Day 6: Base Camp – High Camp (5,450 m)
Climb rocky terrain and glacier to reach High Camp.
Day 7: Summit Day – Alpamayo (5,947 m)
Alpine start (~1:00 am). Cross crevasses and climb steep ice to the summit. Abseil descent to High Camp.
Day 8: High Camp – Base Camp
Descent to Base Camp.
Day 9: Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz
Trek out through Santa Cruz Valley and return to Huaraz.
Day 10: Buffer / Contingency Day
Reserved for weather or summit flexibility.
Details
Accommodation
Camping throughout the expedition (shared tents) Hotel in Huaraz (Day 3)
More info
Skill & Fitness Requirements
- Previous mountaineering experience on snow and ice
- Ability to use crampons, ice axes, and basic rope systems
- Strong physical condition and endurance for multi-day high-altitude efforts
- Good acclimatization prior to arrival is recommended
Equipment you will need to bring
Crampons
Ice axe
Harness
Water bottle
Backpack
Helmet
Ski equipment
Sunglasses
Goggles
Belay device
Required Gear List
- Mountaineering boots (crampon compatible)
- Crampons
- Ice axes (2 technical tools recommended for Alpamayo)
- Harness, helmet
- Carabiners, belay/rappel device
- Mountaineering clothing (layer system)
- Sleeping bag and pad
- Headlamp
- Sunglasses, sunscreen
FAQs
Do I need prior technical climbing experience?
Yes, this program is designed for experienced climbers. Yanapaccha serves as a refresher, not a beginner course.
Why include Yanapaccha before Alpamayo?
It improves acclimatization and allows you to practice technical skills in real conditions before the main objective. This program typically results in higher summit success rates compared to standalone Alpamayo climbs
How fit do I need to be?
You should be in excellent physical condition, capable of sustained effort at high altitude over multiple days.
What is the best time to climb Alpamayo?
Between May and September, when weather conditions are generally more stable.
About the guide
Octavio
4.9
(23)
Mountain Guide
Founder, manager and IFMGA Mountain Guide of Andean Peaks. I work together with my brother Eloy and a team of IFMGA mountain guides, and UIMLA Mountain Leaders. If I'm not available to guide you, one of my qualified colleagues will be your guide.
I was born and raised in the hamlet of Yarush in 1987, at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca. From very young age i was born my passion for the mountains. In 2003 I started as enthusiast to climbing in rock next to my brother Eloy. In 2009 i obtained the title as ''official guide of high mountain''. I enjoy doing sports climbing and opening new routes in the cordillera Blanca, and in other countries. My wide experience has taken me to climb most of the mountains in cordillera blanca.
Languages
| English
Certificates
AGMP | UIAGM
What people are saying about Octavio
Pierre-Olivier
Matthew
We had an amazing experience with Andean Peaks on our 10 day trip. We didn't have a ton of experience, so Octavio worked with us to set up a 3 day training trip on Yanapaccha to prepare us before our 6 day trip to Alpamayo. Our guide, Hector, was great. We felt safe and he was pleasant and had great energy. He's super fit and well skilled on leading, rope management, etc. Our cook, Raul, was incredibly pleasant and ensured that we had more than enough food the entire time. We'd typically have breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea with snack and dinner every day. The trip was well organized and always on time - hotel pick up was on time, all transportation (shuttles, burros, etc) was on point. I'm more than happy with our experience and I'd highly recommend anyone to use their guiding services. I hope to be back to the Cordillera Blanca and would definitely use Andean Peaks again.
We had 10 days in the Cordillera Blanca and Octavio helped us plan a great trip. We did Laguna 69 day trip, Santa Cruz trek, climbing in Hatunmachay, ice climbing and trekking on Mount Pisco. The trip was very well organised and equipment provided was of high quality. Octavio is an experienced mountain guide and climber so we always felt safe throughout the trip. We had a great chef with us when camping and always enjoyed the food he prepared. Also enjoyed chatting to Octavio in the evenings and hearing his great stories!
This guys are great. They are certified mountain guides. The food in the camp was better than the restaurants in Huaraz. You feel safe in their hands all the way to the summit. We climbed 3 mountains in the same tour Ishinca, urus and Tocllaraju. Many thanks to the team they make of the tour a fun place during the climb and in base camp. Totally recommendable
We had 10 days in Andes (Huaraz as base) and wanted to get a mix of trekking, rock climbing and mountaineering. Contacted Andean Peaks who helped me organize the whole trip. Octavio, who was our main guide and one of the owners of the company was super helpful and quick to respond on both emails and Whatsapp. Octavio is a qualified professional mountain guide. Apart from this, he's also a super friendly guy an a good climber. Bonus points for always being punctual, having great equipment/tents etc, good chef (cooked pizza for us at 4600m!). Highly recommend. Activites: 1 day Laguna 69, 3 day Santa Cruz Trek, 2 days rock climbing, 1 day Ice wall climbing and 3 day Pisco mountain.
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