Ausangate Ascent in the Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru
Climb the sacred Ausangate, a 6,400-meter summit in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcanota, on a demanding guided expedition from Cusco that combines high-altitude trekking, glacier travel, and a technical summit ascent.
Private
Andes
8 Days
Jun - Aug
High
Advanced
Highlights
- Climb Ausangate, a 6,400-meter sacred summit in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcanota.
- Acclimatize with a guided ascent of Nevado Jampa at 5,475 meters before attempting Ausangate.
- Take on a serious AD+ glacier route with steep snow, crevasses, snow bridges, and exposed summit terrain.
Description
Rising to 6,400 meters in the Cordillera Vilcanota near Cusco, Ausangate is one of Peru’s most iconic Andean summits and a deeply meaningful mountain in local Inca tradition. Known as the sacred mountain of the Incas, this remote peak offers a serious high-altitude objective surrounded by glaciers, high passes, turquoise lagoons, and vast alpine plateaus.
Join Octavio, a UIAGM and AGMP mountain guide, or one of his qualified teammates, for this challenging Ausangate ascent in southern Peru. The expedition begins in Cusco, at 3,400 meters, with time for acclimatization before heading toward Tinki and Pacchanta. From there, the route moves through high Andean terrain toward the Jampa area, includes an acclimatization ascent of Nevado Jampa at 5,475 meters, and continues toward Ausangate Base Camp and Camp 1.
The climb itself is technically demanding and graded AD+. The route involves glacier terrain, crevasses, snow bridges, a 120-meter wall at approximately 65 to 75 degrees, an exposed final bergschrund, and a sharp ridge before the summit. In some conditions, snowshoes may be useful for crossing the large plateau.
This expedition is best suited for experienced mountaineers with strong fitness, previous high-altitude experience, and solid glacier travel skills. It is a beautiful and committing ascent in one of Peru’s most powerful mountain landscapes.
Send a request to Octavio and his team to start planning your Ausangate ascent in the Cordillera Vilcanota.
Price includes
Meeting point
Itinerary
Day 1: Cusco, Tinki, Pacchanta
Travel from Cusco, at 3,400 meters, to Tinki, at 3,850 meters, and continue to Pacchanta, at 4,250 meters.
Day 2: Pacchanta to Nevado Jampa Base Camp
Move from Pacchanta to the base camp of Nevado Jampa, at 4,900 meters.
Day 3: Ascent of Nevado Jampa and camp at Soracuchopampa
Climb Nevado Jampa, 5,475 meters, as part of the acclimatization process. Descend and continue to Soracuchopampa camp, at 4,600 meters.
Day 4: Soracuchopampa to Ausangate Base Camp
Continue from Soracuchopampa to Ausangate Base Camp, at 4,800 meters.
Day 5: Ausangate Camp 1
Ascend to Camp 1 on Ausangate, at 5,150 meters.
Day 6: Ausangate summit day
Climb to the summit of Ausangate, 6,400 meters, then descend back to base camp.
Day 7: Base Camp, Palomani Pass, Pucacocha Lagoon
Leave base camp and cross Palomani Pass, at 5,150 meters, before descending to Pucacocha Lagoon, at 4,500 meters.
Day 8: Pucacocha Lagoon, Arapa Pass, Upis, Cusco
Continue from Pucacocha Lagoon over Arapa Pass, at 4,700 meters, descend to Upis, at 4,200 meters, and return to Cusco.
FAQs
How difficult is the Ausangate ascent?
The guide grades the route AD+. It is an advanced mountaineering objective involving glacier travel, crevasses, snow bridges, steep snow up to approximately 65 to 75 degrees, an exposed bergschrund, and a sharp final ridge.
Do I need previous mountaineering experience?
Yes. This trip is best suited for climbers with previous experience using crampons, an ice axe, rope systems, and glacier travel techniques at altitude.
Are snowshoes required?
In some conditions, snowshoes may be useful for crossing the large plateau. This should be confirmed closer to the departure date based on mountain conditions.
Is there an acclimatization climb included?
Yes. The program includes an ascent of Nevado Jampa, 5,475 meters, before continuing toward Ausangate.
Where does the trip start and end?
The program starts in Cusco and returns to Cusco after reaching Upis on the final day.
About the guide
Octavio
4.9
(23)
Mountain Guide
Founder, manager and IFMGA Mountain Guide of Andean Peaks. I work together with my brother Eloy and a team of IFMGA mountain guides, and UIMLA Mountain Leaders. If I'm not available to guide you, one of my qualified colleagues will be your guide.
I was born and raised in the hamlet of Yarush in 1987, at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca. From very young age i was born my passion for the mountains. In 2003 I started as enthusiast to climbing in rock next to my brother Eloy. In 2009 i obtained the title as ''official guide of high mountain''. I enjoy doing sports climbing and opening new routes in the cordillera Blanca, and in other countries. My wide experience has taken me to climb most of the mountains in cordillera blanca.
Languages
| English
Certificates
AGMP | UIAGM
What people are saying about Octavio
Pierre-Olivier
Matthew
We had an amazing experience with Andean Peaks on our 10 day trip. We didn't have a ton of experience, so Octavio worked with us to set up a 3 day training trip on Yanapaccha to prepare us before our 6 day trip to Alpamayo. Our guide, Hector, was great. We felt safe and he was pleasant and had great energy. He's super fit and well skilled on leading, rope management, etc. Our cook, Raul, was incredibly pleasant and ensured that we had more than enough food the entire time. We'd typically have breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea with snack and dinner every day. The trip was well organized and always on time - hotel pick up was on time, all transportation (shuttles, burros, etc) was on point. I'm more than happy with our experience and I'd highly recommend anyone to use their guiding services. I hope to be back to the Cordillera Blanca and would definitely use Andean Peaks again.
We had 10 days in the Cordillera Blanca and Octavio helped us plan a great trip. We did Laguna 69 day trip, Santa Cruz trek, climbing in Hatunmachay, ice climbing and trekking on Mount Pisco. The trip was very well organised and equipment provided was of high quality. Octavio is an experienced mountain guide and climber so we always felt safe throughout the trip. We had a great chef with us when camping and always enjoyed the food he prepared. Also enjoyed chatting to Octavio in the evenings and hearing his great stories!
This guys are great. They are certified mountain guides. The food in the camp was better than the restaurants in Huaraz. You feel safe in their hands all the way to the summit. We climbed 3 mountains in the same tour Ishinca, urus and Tocllaraju. Many thanks to the team they make of the tour a fun place during the climb and in base camp. Totally recommendable
We had 10 days in Andes (Huaraz as base) and wanted to get a mix of trekking, rock climbing and mountaineering. Contacted Andean Peaks who helped me organize the whole trip. Octavio, who was our main guide and one of the owners of the company was super helpful and quick to respond on both emails and Whatsapp. Octavio is a qualified professional mountain guide. Apart from this, he's also a super friendly guy an a good climber. Bonus points for always being punctual, having great equipment/tents etc, good chef (cooked pizza for us at 4600m!). Highly recommend. Activites: 1 day Laguna 69, 3 day Santa Cruz Trek, 2 days rock climbing, 1 day Ice wall climbing and 3 day Pisco mountain.
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